Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey all

i've always wanted to get into drifting, nothing serious, just on the weekends at a track, but i have no idea how much it would cost. im curious as to how cheap you can build a drift car, im talking the bare minimum required to get it sideways.

you can slide a stocker, the more mods the easier it becomes up an till a point

make sure your lsd is working, if its not replace it with a mech or weld it up.

few engine mods, exhaust, boost ,fmic

suspension mods, anything you like really just depends how much you want to spend.

easier to learn to drift in a stocker than a 400hp crazy drift car

Edited by [Michael]
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224871-cheapest-drift/#findComment-3960580
Share on other sites

Iam wanting to do this too.

But money is the base of drift, unless your sponsered LOL!

I was thinking just buy a Stock Nissan Silvia S13 K's, upgrade the suspension, Wheels / tyres, strut brace and brakes and start drifting, get use to the car and learn the drifting techniques then start upgrading the engine and push the limit a bit further.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224871-cheapest-drift/#findComment-3960843
Share on other sites

Iam wanting to do this too.

But money is the base of drift, unless your sponsered LOL!

I was thinking just buy a Stock Nissan Silvia S13 K's, upgrade the suspension, Wheels / tyres, strut brace and brakes and start drifting, get use to the car and learn the drifting techniques then start upgrading the engine and push the limit a bit further.

Hey man, was talkin to you last night at the meet...sorry man forgot your name already haha...my bad. Might it be cheaper if u just bought a Silvia J's even and drop an SR into it? If it's only for drifting...?

Justin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224871-cheapest-drift/#findComment-3961180
Share on other sites

What's the best sort of tyres for drifting? I have found that small truck tyres seem to be the go for burnouts and i'm sure alot of rubber is used drifting. The small truck tyres are good because they have lots of rubber to burn and are cheap. is this the sort of thing people use or what?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224871-cheapest-drift/#findComment-3961219
Share on other sites

i was considering getting a track drift car with a mate. share the cost. was looking at importing an already modded drift/track car just for that use so no compliance needed.

Thats probley a better idea, as in everything is there. All you need to do is take it to the track.

Hey man, was talkin to you last night at the meet...sorry man forgot your name already haha...my bad. Might it be cheaper if u just bought a Silvia J's even and drop an SR into it? If it's only for drifting...?

Justin

Hey man!

LOL! J's, I havent heard about them in years. There is a lot of Q's and usual K's but J's...

If they are very cheap and if you can source a SR20DET, then again probley another cheaper option.

What's the best sort of tyres for drifting? I have found that small truck tyres seem to be the go for burnouts and i'm sure alot of rubber is used drifting. The small truck tyres are good because they have lots of rubber to burn and are cheap. is this the sort of thing people use or what?

If what you say about truck tyres is true, then thats a smaller hole in you wallet. LOL!

I go for that.

ALSO I was told that a CA18DET is a bit more stronger than a SR20DET...

Appently the SR20DET is a "board out" CA18DET so the walls in the block are thiner, hence easier to crack if pushed too hard.

CA18DET = thicker walls, hence stronger... But you gain a bit more torque with the 2lt as opposed to the 1.8lt...

True?

If so I guess save a bit more cash and get a CA18DET if cheaper, which I assume.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224871-cheapest-drift/#findComment-3961333
Share on other sites

LOL! J's, I havent heard about them in years. There is a lot of Q's and usual K's but J's...

If they are very cheap and if you can source a SR20DET, then again probley another cheaper option.

Really? J's is still all i ever seem to see...and Q's...not so much K's...

ah well...yeah i actually heard that myself about the CA...more research is in order i think haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224871-cheapest-drift/#findComment-3961373
Share on other sites

whatever it is, get a locked/shimmed diff at BARE minimum. if you dont have a diff that will spin 2 wheels every single time, you are just wasting your time and money.

coilovers is definately next, if your serious about drifting you want stiff, about 9/7 stiff for s13s (depends on the cars suspension setup and what motor ect).

a heavy duty clutch that will take the power your car has

decent steer tyres on somewhat wide and light rims is important too.

a harness, bucket seat and steering wheel like a nardi.

swaybars and adjustable arms (castor arms and rear camber arms are the first ones you want)

your car to not be a unreliable, worn out shitbox that will break down by the end of the session.

in the under 5k bracket, theres a few popular cars that have a decent aftermarket support and arent too hard to get parts for.

r31 - minispool diff centres on ebay for $80, s13 front end gear fits, s13 rear coilovers fit all round (rears need a little work) all skyline configuration motors bolt in, lots of aftermarket bits from other cars fit

KE70/Ae71 corolla, all sprinter bits fit, they make up in their lack pf power with their light weight. seriously cool cars when done up right.

ae86, can be found with basic drift parts for under 5k. if your gonna piss and moan about takumi tax, then get a ke70

NA s13 is probably the best chassis and the easiest to upgrade.

then theres other ones like older celicas, commodores, geminis ect but unless yoru willing to spend heaps of money or do alot of f**king around getting parts form other cars to fit, theyre not worth it. good reason popular cars are popular

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224871-cheapest-drift/#findComment-3961459
Share on other sites

as for the cost side of it, you can pick up an alright condition manual r31 for under 2k no worries. as long as the motor and box are healthy and the cars not smashed, its ok. your replacing the clutch, tyres and suspension shit anyway.

example

car $1000

new hd clutch (not worth using second hand ones) $300

s13 coilovers second hand $500-$1000

s13 front end gear >$300

new decent steer tyres $400

mini spool diff centre $80

some decent steer wheels $300ish

harness $100

plus fresh fluids, belts, hoses, pads ect

start off using throwaway tyres from tyre shops, with a non turbo you wanna use 195s or 205s on a r31, 185s on a corolla ect, depends on your driving style.

add either trailer costs or rego costs, plus entry to the event, a helmet and fuel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224871-cheapest-drift/#findComment-3961466
Share on other sites

An r31 is about the cheapest starting point with good scope for improvement. Even an NA with locked diff can turn the tyres reasonably well.

S13 is a better chassis but NA models are now as expensive as turbo models due to the p plate laws. If you are willing to spend a bit more up front (around 10k) you can get an srdet model with most of the good bits on it already.

truck tyres? f**k no. Make friends with all your local tyre shops and go through their rubbish pile regularly. You'll get some reasonably good tyres for the price of the fitting generally.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224871-cheapest-drift/#findComment-3961473
Share on other sites

Really? J's is still all i ever seem to see...and Q's...not so much K's...

ah well...yeah i actually heard that myself about the CA...more research is in order i think haha

Asked a friend tonight about the CA18DET and the SR20DET.

2 Completely different engines. So no, its not 'board out', nothing...

CA18DET is CA18DET

SR20DET is SR20DET

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224871-cheapest-drift/#findComment-3962098
Share on other sites

R31, welded/spooled diff, s13 coilovers all round, strip the motherf*cker bare, remove all sound deadening, seats, spare parts, dash/heaterbox/aircon if your real serious. when you get comfortable with it, go buy a standard VLT conversion and front mount cooler + boost controller, easy 150rwkw. car with basic mods - ~2000-2500, extra for turbo kit - 2k will cover it easy

KE70/AE71, welded diff, heavy springs all round and shocks to suit, sigma lower control arms, steering/tied rod ends off a RT140 celica.... i think? and again, strip it bare. once your comfortable with that, 4age conversion is in order. basic car with mods - 1500ish, and about 2-3k for a conversion i rkn

the real important thing here that you neglected to mention was, does the car need to be kept registered or can you trailer it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224871-cheapest-drift/#findComment-3962315
Share on other sites

What's the best sort of tyres for drifting? I have found that small truck tyres seem to be the go for burnouts and i'm sure alot of rubber is used drifting. The small truck tyres are good because they have lots of rubber to burn and are cheap. is this the sort of thing people use or what?

You don't want to use truck tyres.

Believe it or not, but for drifting you actually want as much grip as you can get (once you get past the learner stage)

Grip = Speed and angle = bullshit fun.

Best idea is to find a good tyre shop and make friends. I have befriended a place close to me and the manager puts aside all the second hand 17's and I come in and get 12 rims fitted up at a time. They don't charge me for strip&fit only the tyres.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224871-cheapest-drift/#findComment-3963127
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...