Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i've had both a r33 gtst and now i have a r33 gtr.

Its not just about the 4wd which makes the gtr better. The gtr revs much harder and produces more torque.

My old gtst r33 had 257 rwk on 16psi with all bolt ons (550hp turbo)

My r33 gtr has 254rwk on 11psi ( garret -7's) minus the injectors and i can tell you now that theres bugger all difference between them on a rolling run.

The gtr with the extra weight behind it still goes as hard as my gtst with a whisker less rwk, and the r used less boost for a similiar power result.

Thanks :P

Edited by R33GOD
  • Replies 268
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Is a stock GTR better than a stock GTST/GTT.......Yes. Depends how u look at it..

Can a GTST/GTT be modified to smash a GTR........Yes.

Can it be modifed easily to smash a gtr....... No.

Can a GTR be modified to smash a modified GTST/GTT......Yes.

Does it even need to be modified to smash a gtst/gtt......... NO

changing turbos n make more power doesnt mean ull beat a gtr... u need a fairly modified gtst to beat a relatively stock gtr... ur talkin turbo, suspension, tyres, ecu, injectors, fuel pumps, clutches etc

I've just had a read through the first few pages, can't be bothered reading all of them though :P so I'm sorry if this has already been said!

I keep reading that it costs a lot more $$$ to get a gts-t/gtt to compete with a gtr. And i totally agree with that as far as requiring mods. But....

Using the R34 as an example, a GTT costs what? 20-25k? And a GTR starts from what, 50k or more?

So by my logic, you have 30k to spend on the GTT before you are more out of pocket than the GTR owner. And surely that would be one quick GTT?

Thoughts?

r34 gtt price are about right...

gtr prices r so wrong.. r32 prices for good clean ones without any mechanical woes start from probably around 20-25k as well...

im selling my incredibly worked one for 30k.. so really.. buyin a gtt to save money isnt really saving money when u end up with a lesser car for not really much cheaper

That's comparing a R34 GTT to a R32 GTR. How about we keep this topic to R32 GTST vs R32 GTR, R33 GTST vs R33 GTR and R34 GTT vs R34 GTR. Just because R32 GTR's are cheap and are quick, doesn't mean people choose them over something newer. Age is a key factor here. Every one is different and a more modern interior/exterior some times outweighs peoples choices over straight out performance in stock form.

Easy to make a car quick, harder to make it look more modern and be more comfortable/easy to live with.

Edited by PM-R33
admit it, if someone gave you either a free built RB30 or a free built RB20 you would take the 30.

Thats never going to happen, and if i am going to be stuck with the cost of a rebuild i will take the RB20. I have seen spark plug tips fall off damaging a friend's built RB26. I have seen a perfectly good fuel pump fail costing a friend an RB26. I have seen perfectly strong and well built RB26 die at the track for no obvious reason, the reason was something to do with pull type clutch and bottom end?!?!?. The same goes for any engine, built or std. They can let go for any number of silly bolt on reasons and since i like to track my car, knowing that its cheaper to put another std RB20 into my car then it is to rebuild the TD06 turbo or change the clutch means i can enjoy the car that little bit more. More torque means my RB20 box needs replacing too.

More power means more heat, so oil and coolant cooling issues. So for a fun weekend track car i have tried to keep the budget vs fun and speed equation about right. More money of course would make it better, inc RB30 and money spent everywhere else. People talking about full on track GTRs, i would love to see how a 1080kgs GTSt woudl go against a 1350kg GTR

So, i wont take any built engine unless it comes with an idiot proof warranty as i am an idiot and anything more then $800 for a rebuild/replacement cost means i am happy with what i have. At present i cant see the value in spending 10-15k to go from the peaky 260rwkws i have to a more meaty 350rwkws

I have owned both an R33 GTST which was my first car and now have a R33 GTR.

My gtst ended up with an RB26 in it... so it was pre destined to make the step up.

The 2 are wildly different beasts. I find the GTR alot nicer place to be. Interior is nicer, i can fit the rims i want under the guards without sweating about clearence issues. Yes it still handles like a RWD to some extent but the AWD kicks in at the right times. As stated by Roy i noticed on a few spirited touge runs that oil temps went North and quick. The car now runs a 19row oil cooler and its flat on 86degrees and has peeked at 92. If you have the money to spend pay a little extra and get into a GTR..... If you find that your missing the driftability of the rwd just do a launch and you'll soon forget about drift. I know i have

You can solve this one easily , ask yourself if your trying to impress yourself or only everyone else .

I believe there are limits to how often you can realistically use the extras Nissan put into GTR's , I believe they are a compromise with the legacy of being based on a homologation special .

Not many "real ones" meaning M3's Evo's STi's GTR's etc make good all round road cars that suit everyone .

In the real world a budget RWD RB30 DOHC Turbo Skyline is a far more useful thing all round than a GTR - IMO .

I think GTRs are way too complex/expensive/bastard to work on so I wouldn't contemplate one .

Aside from that a front heavy family of cars thats even more front heavy than usual is too much of a compromise 95% of the time .

From memory the GTRs driveline was based on the Mercedes 4 Matic ? Maybe good for a racer but these specials don't always work when toned down for the street .

Nah for me it'd have to be a Lancer Evolution 6 though god help me probably stroked to 2.4 and this and that .....

I think GTRs are just too big and heavy - front heavy to really throw around on the street , good for what they were designed for but questionable for close in agility .

Your calls .

I have owned both an R33 GTST which was my first car and now have a R33 GTR.

My gtst ended up with an RB26 in it... so it was pre destined to make the step up.

The 2 are wildly different beasts. I find the GTR alot nicer place to be. Interior is nicer, i can fit the rims i want under the guards without sweating about clearence issues. Yes it still handles like a RWD to some extent but the AWD kicks in at the right times. As stated by Roy i noticed on a few spirited touge runs that oil temps went North and quick. The car now runs a 19row oil cooler and its flat on 86degrees and has peeked at 92. If you have the money to spend pay a little extra and get into a GTR..... If you find that your missing the driftability of the rwd just do a launch and you'll soon forget about drift. I know i have

The GTR series I interior is the same as a GTST series I interior.

The GTR series II and III interior is the same as the GTST series II interior.

Other than the seats and some factory DIN gauges there is no real difference so i dont see how its a nicer place to be.

it all comes down to your level of modification, you can't just flatly compare the two... its pointless...

both have their upsides and downsides... impossible to say one is better without asking 'at what?'

as a fun street car that can be punted at the track = GTSt

as a fun track car that can be driven on the street = GTR

my old GTSt was better on the street... but the GTR is in another league when it come to performance... but that's got a lot to do with modification so we just end up back at the start going in circles................................................ or on page 10 of another comparo thread

i think everything has been said in the 10 odd pages already

so anyways i'l put my 2cents in...

i own a series 2 gtst, standard mods, full exhaust, cooler', heavy duty clutch, 11psi bla bla

my brother in law has a 98 series 3 R33 GTR with only full exhaust (dump pipes back) pods, 14psi and nismo twin plate....

let me tell u that thing at the lights is like a slingshot, where as the gtst just spins the wheels/tramps/chirps

i think thats where the GTR has an advantage, and thats the ability to just leap of the line thanks to the attessa system

then again everywhen do u drive like that on the street?

ahhh hell im just gona buy a GTR so i can tell my mates i have a GTR :P

lol

Well thats exactly the thing, launching. Like i said, it's main advantage on the street and you can't deny it. GTR's launching on the street are deadly.

From a rolling start at say 60kmh and dropping it into second and nailing it, where does a GTR with the same power as a GTST in a straight line have an advantage? (assuming the GTST can put the power to the ground) No where.

Edited by PM-R33

it does if both are making over 450hp. Unless you are driving around on semi slicks, you will spin the wheels in 1st 2nd and 3rd in a gts-t, whereas a GTR even on plain street tyres will just accelerate.

I took the front drive shaft out of mine for tuning purposes, and the back was very very happy to slide in any direction it could as soon as i got on the gas.

my 3c. when you start to talk about seriously modded cars, both can be turned into weapons. The difference at the end of the very long modification road is ~100kg vs AWD. And again, both can be made to go around a track very very fast. For me, the AWD wins out over the weight difference as you cannot beat getting on the gas before your even at the apex and just powering out of the corner. Take a 500hp gts-t vs a 500hp gtr and tell a pro driver to go do a lap in them. The GTR is going to come out in front, but not by as much as some would claim.

r34 gtt price are about right...

gtr prices r so wrong.. r32 prices for good clean ones without any mechanical woes start from probably around 20-25k as well...

im selling my incredibly worked one for 30k.. so really.. buyin a gtt to save money isnt really saving money when u end up with a lesser car for not really much cheaper

Ok, I did say lets use an R34 as an example. Don't know where you're going to get a 34 GTR for 20-25k....

It's rather pointless comparing a 34 to a 32, ones a lot older than the other.

it does if both are making over 450hp. Unless you are driving around on semi slicks, you will spin the wheels in 1st 2nd and 3rd in a gts-t, whereas a GTR even on plain street tyres will just accelerate.

I took the front drive shaft out of mine for tuning purposes, and the back was very very happy to slide in any direction it could as soon as i got on the gas.

Well thats exactly right. Like i said, you have to assume that the GTST is putting the power to the ground. If it's spinning, then yes once again the GTR's AWD advantage is coming into play. However any RWD can be setup to put the power to ground with the correct tyres and suspension settings unless the power delivery is extremely parabolic.

I am so over this thread its not funny.

I bet all these gtst owners have never owned a gtr to tell the diference. I used to be in denial too when i owned my gtst.

Fact of the matter is the gtr has a larger motor and produces more torque, and revs harder. period. Read my above post at top of page.

Get over it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
×
×
  • Create New...