Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry to say that I have lost my BCM code (even my backups were blank). I hear that Nissan Japan won't help anymore and I can't seem to get in touch with TomR33. I still have two keys but I would like to have the code just in case.

Anyone around that can get the codes for me?

Thanks,

  • 2 months later...

Hi everyone, My 2003 Coupe came with only one key. Following earlier posts I emailed Nissan Japan the info from behind the kick panel. They sent the code to Nissan Oz who forwarded it on to my local dealer (country WA) All good so far! Now the dealer is confused as to what key to encode. If anyone out there has been successful in getting a new key, can you please tell me from which Nissan vehicle it came from? I wondered if a Maxima key would do the job. Cheers.

Do you have an aftermarket alarm? Are the black, plastic tags used to disarm it?

Try swapping them around.

Not sure if aftermarket or not. the dealer installed it during compliance. i was told that the black tags must be near the ignition switch. i assume it disables the oem immobiliser.

  • 5 months later...

Sorry for digging up an old post.

I to was only provided one key and my car didnt even come with a remote, so i grabbed the info from my side kick panel and ive e-mailed Nissan Japan, incase they fall through i thought id post my BCM number info here with the hope someone will help me.

Thanks again guys really appreciate it.

post-99966-0-33719000-1359717850_thumb.jpg

Hey Guys,

I know this topic is old but jst letting you know if nissan australia tells you they cant help you with ciding a new key/remote they are liying out their arse, after arguing with a couple of dealers i found one in artarmon "Mildren Prestiege" they were able to code me a new set of keys with remote as well as the full programming of an intelligent key for $301.00 i previously only had the key without the remote, great having all the features

I find it funny that the local dealer calls me to code keys to these cars . it is even more interesting when they hand me thier C3 and a car and a key and a immobiliser code..

nissan japan won't sell me keys and will point me and everyone else wanting keys back to nissan oz who are supposed to point them to the dealer. dealers are told not to touch imports due to the R35.

fun and games..

Dealers should touch them Chris, they should touch them very intimately! lol

Apparently you can just buy the remotes off ebay that can be coded with instructions to your V35, but you need to buy a key to cut separately

IF that's true, then f**k yeah

Edited by Murry33

not entirely. but hey its on the net it must be true...

still need to program the transponder into the car. someone else has to do that

This is the hard part. Still haven't found someone keen to touch mine for less than $150 (which I reckon is a little excessive because they will do non-imports for less than half that! Don't want to pass over my hard earned to some knob with that mentality).

  • 1 year later...

Hey guys, new 2003 350gt owner here.

I only got one set of keys with the car. I have had a browse around on the internet trying to find replacement keys to no real avail.

I have attached a picture of the set. I have figured out that the little button one is my immobiliser key so Ill have to get in touch with the manufacturer of them to see if I can get another from them. But for the main key, is this one shared with any other cars which were available in Australia?

Am I pretty much stuck with dealing with Nissan Australia to buy the actual spare and then can I get it cut at other places (I have seen Bells Locksmith/Abbotts Locksmith/JapLink mentioned) or do I just pull out the KY and warm up my credit card swiping arm?

qxFYAD0l.jpg

you can get the physical keycase and blade on ebay - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-3-BUTTON-REMOTE-KEY-SHELL-KEY-CASE-MICRA-350Z-PATHFINDER-NAVARA-/221126171658?_trksid=p2054897.l5659

However, you are going to need the immobilizer chip and remote central locking module and then have your car programmed to accept it. I am not sure if any ADM model nissans use the same type of keychip and/or central locking remote.

If you can find out if another ADM nissan does, you could try to find a 2nd hand key, take the keychip and remote board out, fit it to the case from ebay above, have the key cut at any locksmith, Then take the car to Nissan to have them program the BCM to accept both keys and both remotes.

Edited by sonicii

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...