Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 435
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

This is the one I'll eventually be getting. No where to put it at the moment.

post-194-1225423903_thumb.jpg

My cousin makes them and has offered me one for free :-)

Can get some good deals if anyone is interested. (Mods delete if inapropriate)

Hi all,

What brake setups are people running on there trailers? The one i am in the progress of building now only has cable drums. Will this be enough? The trailer i usually use has Hyd drums. It will be mainly towing my R33 gtst.

There are some very nice setups in here, some better set up then my shed lol.

Cheers.

This is the one I'll eventually be getting. No where to put it at the moment.

post-194-1225423903_thumb.jpg

My cousin makes them and has offered me one for free :-)

Can get some good deals if anyone is interested. (Mods delete if inapropriate)

any more info on prices etc would be great!

cheers

michael

We are running mechanical discs on the front axle. I've never been a fan of hydrolics or electrics. I don't like the hydrolic one because the trailer sits around for too long,,,absorbing tons of water into the system,,,you would need to cover the cylinder as they need a breather hole in the cap to work properly. The electric one is way to un-reliable for my liking,,,I've been down that road years ago and never going back.

Neil.

And at the risk of disagreeing with Neil(:)), I prefer the electric brakes. Biggest problem is you need a controller in any car using it so you can't easily lend it to someone (well maybe thats a plus)

But for useability, the electric ones are adjustable for the load (they lock the wheel on full if the trailer isn't loaded), and you can apply them manually if the trailer is swaying. Mechanical ones are much simpler but are much less smooth to drive with because they make the trailer jerk under light braking (or even just backing off sometimes)

Thanks guys, i might try the mechanical drums and see how they go.

Electric ones sound good but they are super expensive once you get the controller, brake away, and the brakes them self.

I am going to try and have the trailer ready for BS weekend, but i don't like my chances. We just have to build the ramps put the grid in the chassis and wire it up.

I've towed with electric braked trailers - I hate them. And I had the under dash controller in my previous 4WD. Hydraulics are the best setup imo. Those expensive electric brake controller gizmos are just trying to approximate what the hydraulic system does automatically. The amount of braking applied by the trailer is totally dependant on the weight on the trailer and how hard you are stopping. But hydraulics don't need adjusting and won't lock the wheels if you have no load or if over-adjusted. And over or underadjusted electric brakes can be downright dangerous down mountain ranges.

If you store the trailer outside, simply cover the master cylinder resorvoir with a cup or plastic bag to keep moisture out. nothing too difficult about that.

I've never had any jerking at light braking loads or backing off.

I think the cable drums are the worst setup you can choose. the cables and drums all need to be equally adjusted to brake evenly. could get nasty down a wet mountain range if that's not right... And they need the most maintenance as shoes wear and cables stretch.

Drove to Phillip Island and back with a supposed youbeaut electric brake system, it was crap.

No matter how it was adjusted it would not work evenly at variable speeds. Adjust it to work at highway speeds and when you had to slow down through a town the brakes would lock up. Hopeless.

ahh yes but every hire trailer I've ever seen is a deathtrap. They invariably have bent axles so they sway like a bastard when towing. And their brakes are usually shit or not working at all.

only way to get a reliable trailer is to get your own. And then a tow car. And then somewhere to park them both.

unregistered car cars get expensive.

Ryan, yes you need the electric brakes and controller, but you only need break away system if the trailer is over 2t. And that goes for whatever brake system you use. We just use the cheap controller that runs an input from the brake switch (not variable) and has a variable output on the controller itself which keeps it all simple.

Harry....I get the impression you live near mountains lol. I have not had trouble with either electric or mechanical brakes down hills even with 2t loads but my tow car has pretty capable brakes and tyres on it which helps I guess.

kinda. I used to run alot at Morgan Park at Warwick which is the other side of the range. Used to borrow or hire trailers until I got my own and had some bad experiences! locking electric brakes down there in the wet isn't much fun! never had any issues with my hydraulic braked trailer. I've done quite a few trips between Bris and Sydney/Bathurst too and depending on which way you go, there's a few decent hills along the way too.

yep hire trailers suck. they are usually heavy, crap, and half broken.

I busted my car at wakefield park once and had to hire a ute and trailer to get it back. the clowns gave me a crap little manual ute that felt like it had about 40hp, and weighed about 900kg, then gave me a trailer that weighed what seemed like 800odd kg or more and put my 1250kg car on it. great recipe for disaster.

the thing could barely do 90km flat knacker and you had to rev the ring out of 4th to get enough pace up to get into 5th and cruise, otherwise you'd rapidly loose gound in 5th and have to downshift again. any slight incline meant going back to 4th (and I mean slight). I was getting passed by everything and any truck that went past (at 120km, 4mm off my side mirror of course) sent the thing swaying so much it was a fight to keep it on the road at all. then the invariable high wind out of goulburn started and basically the trailer drove me instead of the other way around. it was scary stuff.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
×
×
  • Create New...