Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That would be interesting to see... however CRIPES don't rip out your turbo for a 6-10psi blower ?! Supercharging does have its benefits of course, but if your unit's limit is 10PSI then I fear even the stock turbo is going to beat that with a good enough intercooler.

That would be interesting to see... however CRIPES don't rip out your turbo for a 6-10psi blower ?! Supercharging does have its benefits of course, but if your unit's limit is 10PSI then I fear even the stock turbo is going to beat that with a good enough intercooler.

wasnt planning on it... blower + turbo

i know theres a rb30 in queensland with this setup but contact unknown

That would be interesting to see... however CRIPES don't rip out your turbo for a 6-10psi blower ?! Supercharging does have its benefits of course, but if your unit's limit is 10PSI then I fear even the stock turbo is going to beat that with a good enough intercooler.
Certainly don't replace the turbo with the supercharger but I see Japanese tuners have added twin superchargers to a GTR (I couldn't quite see how it worked but I think the superchargers were blowing into the turbos (should assist with quich spool!).

There's also the current Mk V Golf GT Sport that has a 1.4 litre turbocharged and supercharged engine with direct injection (first time the 3 technologies have been used together in the world).

No reason it couldn't work, but I'm guessing VW would have spent HEAPS on getting the computers programmed so that they're running everything right...

HKS made a twincharge kit for the 4agze, long out of production. I've seen this kit for sale on ebay. Obviously no good but you could do a search for it to see how that kit works.

There are a few different ways to do a twincharge setup (i'm certainly no expert), different pros and cons for each way i believe. There is a guy twincharging a 3rzfe motor on toymods at the moment.

Don't forget that the Nissan March Super-turbo had both as well, and that was in the 80's (90's?)....

It's gonna make one helluva cramped engine bay, and there's going to be serious piping tetris going on, if you decide to try it....

the bandag bullet has 2 v8's in it that are supercharged and twin turbo'd so i guess a supercharger and a turbo is possible, dont know how the F*#k they do that shit tho lol

mate, bandag bullets engines are old detroit diesel two strokes that have "blowers" or scavanging pumps rather than supercharges, only the turbo is actualy adding any boost.

I went to the trouble of finding something handy for you: RB30DET + Supercharger

from another forum.

I think this member may be active on here as well but not sure

I woulda posted the thread with all the info on it but i dont think im allowed to do that lol

Its an Eaton M90 supercharger BTW

and hope the person who owns doesnt mind me posting it here

post-37600-1232234276_thumb.jpg

Edited by Boostin96
Don't forget that the Nissan March Super-turbo had both as well, and that was in the 80's (90's?)....

It's gonna make one helluva cramped engine bay, and there's going to be serious piping tetris going on, if you decide to try it....

yar Ali Gs egg beater... was thinking along those lines, pod -> turbo -> blower -> chamber. the charger turning off (electromagnetic clutch) at some point

wasnt there a twin charge S15-SR20 made by BEE*R in the HPI mag a while ago?

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=4SjNgVH_HN0

I went to the trouble of finding something handy for you: RB30DET + Supercharger

from another forum.

I think this member may be active on here as well but not sure

I woulda posted the thread with all the info on it but i dont think im allowed to do that lol

Its an Eaton M90 supercharger BTW

and hope the person who owns doesnt mind me posting it here

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=yzRpz9c-t_o

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=p4ydUi1XUGI

thanks for your help guys

I went to the trouble of finding something handy for you: RB30DET + Supercharger

from another forum.

I think this member may be active on here as well but not sure

I woulda posted the thread with all the info on it but i dont think im allowed to do that lol

Its an Eaton M90 supercharger BTW

and hope the person who owns doesnt mind me posting it here

that engine must pump out some serious heat , the bonnet paint must be flame proof :angry:

the m90 blower can run alot more than 10psi. there are many super6 commos running 18-22psi through them (intercooled of course). as much as the super and turbo idea sounds good, it a massive amount of work (and $$$$$) that would be very unnecessary unless ur chasing 500+hp and still want good response. i would suggest seriously considering blower only for ease of fitting and alot less plumbing. either way you go it should sound fantastic. good luck.

early boost

that depends on how much "early" torque your engine can deliver too...which isn't that fantastic in stageas. It gets better with every later model though...

I guess it would still work....seems a lot of effort though, and most stageas are on boost pretty early anyway - so you're looking at improving only a very small gap in the rev range.

It can be done. I helped do it to a mate's 200B SSS with SR20DET many years ago. Just plumb the compressed air after turbo compressor housing and before the intercooler.

The supercharger should go higher with boost. 10psi is low imo. Get the specs and see what the max rpm the turbo can go to. Then match that to the engine's max rpm. For example, SC max 9,000 rpm vs engine max 6,000rpm means a pulley ratio of 2:3 maximum. But I'd drop 1,000rpm on the SC to be safe, so 6,000 to 8,000 = 3:4 ratio (SC completes 4 revs per 3 engine revs). This can be altered by pulley sizes on the SC.

But don't forget some SC are teflon coated on the inside. Even if you've got a max 9,000rpm on the SC, an old or used SC will not be as reliable, so again drop 500-1,000rpm off your max.

Also, don't forget if your turbo is set at 10psi and the SC runs 10psi max boost, there is a potential 20psi there at some point of overlap in the rev range. Also, your turbo pumping 10psi is now fighting against 20psi which wants to go back the other way. I'd recommend 6psi SC for low down response and 10psi on the turbo for mid-top end. The SC is pulley driven so it will be fine against 16psi, but again keep in mind the coating on the rotors in the SC.

I have no more documented stuff on this build, so see if you can find over the net some forum or detailed log of a build similar to this.

I've worked with superchargers and turbos before, so shoot me a PM if you want some further tips.

Another we drew up, but never built, was running the SC inlet from the turbo compressor, so the SC is in between the induction side of the turbo and intercooler. But you'd want to match things properly. Say max rpm from the supercharger to handle the boost from the turbo when at its max. But then a second intercooler between turbo and SC would be recommended. I fantisized about running turbo (@ 12psi max) then intercooler, then SC (@ 12psi max also, as long as this doesn't exceed the max rpm for SC), then second intercooler then plenum. This way the SC provides an early boost, which also aids speeding up spinning the turbo, then the turbo hits max boost. Without risk of damaging the engine from overboosting. Food for thought ... wished I'd gone ahead with this idea years ago.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...