Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I just called up Famous Insurance to get a quote, spoke to a good bloke, however he told me that since my car is twin turbo, I need to wait to be 25 or older till they can insure me. Apparently single turbo is fine however. Is the right guys? Seems like a silly rule to me

perfect reason to convert to a big single.

"honestly officer, my insurance company made me do it..."

Just rang H2P. They will cover my car for $23,000 and quoted $1110 PA

Im paying more then that at just car to cover $14,000

Hmmmm

Renewal comes up in march. Pretty sure im shifting to H2P

would be interesting to see if a fella rang and gave the exact same details i.e. age, driving history, same suburb & storage and car specs, whether the quote would be exactly the same.

I've heard that males that drive imports and are under 25 can sometimes be penalized by some ins companies.......food for thought.

would be interesting to see if a fella rang and gave the exact same details i.e. age, driving history, same suburb & storage and car specs, whether the quote would be exactly the same.

I've heard that males that drive imports and are under 25 can sometimes be penalized by some ins companies.......food for thought.

Correct, i just got a quote from them.

1998 R34 Skyline

exhaust, wheels, cooler, suspension, cd player and ecu listed.

Premium: $2919.01

per month: $243.26

Rating 2 (im rating 3 with just car)

Excess: $2000 (500 basic, 500 <25 turbo, 500 car is an import, 500 for mods)

No agreed Value mentioned.

Yeah girls do get it cheaper a lot of the time. Did at Justcar, cost an extra 500bux if you were a guy. Not to include the age excess... which is bigger then a females also.

H2P do allow monthly repayments and dont charge any extra to do so, no cancelation fees or anything either. I also got a quote for when I upgrade and get a Turbo, its and extra 500bux on excess or something like that.

Basic excess is $1000

Driver under 21 - $750

Driver 21-24 - $500

Driver (me)- $250

Just car have $1000 basic

another $1000 if your at fault and another car is involved

Then driver and age excesses on top of that. Cant remember the exact details but when the renewal papers come through I will do a proper comparison and let ya know.

just keep in mind that with H2P they get to pick and choose what mods they want to pay out if anything happens = not everything is covered.

that certaintly doesnt give me piece of mind so i was glad i changed to shannons

I spoke to the guy at the Shannons stand at SMASA on the weekend.

If you can answer yes to the following questions, you will NOT be insured by them.

Are you under 25?

Is your special vehicle your daily drive?

I was informed that the 26-27-28 year olds who keep drifting and smashing their 180sx's and Silvias are to blame. Shannons wont be insuring kids with daily drive imports in the near future.

isnt ur 34 NA though? thats gonna make a massive difference when talkin to insurers

You would think so, its still classified as a high performance import tho. The difference is under 500 bucks. Pretty gay, ill still use the "cheap insurance" line when I sell it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...