Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Twin 3" dumps into a 3.5 decat and 3" cat back

3in catback is too small. Disconnect the cat back and do another dyno run to see how it goes.. Also, decats are only for the sort of people who throw garbage in the street.... ie the anti-social

FWIW the Nismoid rule of thumb for exhaust sizing is;

3in for 300kw

3.5in for 350kw

4in for 400kw

plenty of 3.5" cats around....

if the sard flows the same amount as the nismo fuel pump then up to 400kw will be achievable on e85

Yeah, but the question is will a 3.5in cat match the 3in front pipe or will there be a need for an adapter?

Sard fuel pump flows exactly the same as a Nismo fuel pump.

I gained 500rpm in response time by knocking it out. Im waiting til I get my new exhaust to put a bigger one in. supposedly had a 200 cell cat in there before.

they are worse than hitler

The best logical conclusion is that my cam haven't been set up correctly when my timing belt got done after I got another dyno reading for the same HP.

5psi by 4500, 10 by 6000 and 17 by 7500....

  • 1 month later...

I have ended up with the -9's and after fitting them and running a compression test I found out that I am now needing a rebuild.. Changing the pistons, rods, cams, injectors, oil pump, cam gears etc.. would it be 'restricting' this build with -9s?

I had over 400kw and ran a 3.5inch exhaust. I never upgraded to 4inch for the reason that my tuner advised the exhaust was not a restriction.

Hope that helps :)

P.S. I'm sure there would be gains but not more than a bees d1ck (bang for buck)

  • Like 1

Anyone with a 400awkw car had a 3.5in and change to 4in and see any gains?

There's no way to tell over the internet. A rule of thumb is just that. The cat and mufflers are the most restrictive bits after the turbine, if you have a cat and muffler(s) that flow very well, you might see no difference like Marko. Ask your tuner.

If you already have a good flowing 3.5" then i would say keep that but if you need a new one then sure you may see a little gain from going to the 4" set up.

I have a 3.5" cat back making 430kw on 2530's with a stock 2.6L and is not a restriction.

Cheers

Edited by KING87

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...