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Sounds nice.Throw some pics up if you have any! :)  

But I have to say,what's with all these RB's in DR30s????? :confused:

now now boys just because we thought of it first don't get pissed :cheers: .

remember my car had no engine when i bought it 2 years ago, so all i had as a referance was the 6 cylinder mr30 hatch i was driving at the time. then i found that web site kev's r30 or something which was the only info site i'd found back then.... anyone read it? that test drive section was what gave me the idea of putting in the rb20det and the rb20 just looks good when i lift the bonnet now thats its painted... :ghost:

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Guys, I have a dumped DR30 white with an RB20DET.  It has a Link computer and WAW zenner wheels 16" with 225/50 tyres.  It has a big selby sway bar on the front and the lower control arms extended by 7/8" as told to do by datsun performance centre.  Handles like a champ.

I have 2 probs though and I'll ask for help in the other sections.

Great to see some others that share the ecstacy of the DR30.

just a quick question dude. was your car for sale on ebay at all? welcome to the old school... :cheers:

Hey, I don't want to over estimate power and look like a tool. I'll give you the specs and you tell me what you think it is

RB20DET ECCS (silver top ) standard power was 162KW running 8psi

Standard R32 GTS intercooler (just picked up a supra one for $84)

K&N ram pod (sucking hot air)

3" mandrel bent exhaust

Link engine management (no lamda sensor)

14.5 psi max boost from 3200 to 7000 rpm (unless it screws up like it has been)

GTR sticker (only joking)

Dont know if anything else has been done to it but I assumed these mods would give at least 25kw therefore giving me 250 hp. Once I have the supra IC it should run to 15psi easily and tuned with cold air should apparently give me 300hp.

If I am wrong let me know

Hey,  I don't want to over estimate power and look like a tool.  I'll give you the specs and you tell me what you think it is

RB20DET ECCS (silver top ) standard power was 162KW running 8psi

Standard R32 GTS intercooler (just picked up a supra one for $84)

K&N ram pod (sucking hot air)

3" mandrel bent exhaust

Link engine management (no lamda sensor)

14.5 psi max boost from 3200 to 7000 rpm (unless it screws up like it has been)

GTR sticker (only joking)

Dont know if anything else has been done to it but I assumed these mods would give at least 25kw therefore giving me 250 hp.  Once I have the supra IC it should run to 15psi easily and tuned with cold air should apparently give me 300hp.

If I am wrong let me know

going by what i know on the rb20det and power upgrades, with the standard fmic your using at the moment thats what will be keeping the power down, the supra cooler may not be any more help than the standard r32 one?

now the power output of a standard rb20det is 205hp at the fly wheel about 160rwhp. with the intercooler done and everything else you've got the most you can expect would be around the 160rwkw/215rwhp sort of mark as thats the limit of the turbo, try a rb25 turbo and that should get the 250rwhp figure you want.... :)

What page is it on?  

I was hoping for 300 fly wheel horse power with the Supra FMIC, Jaustech use to have the same set up but a modified computer rather than the link was the only thing different.

found it on page 11 post #275 bottom of the page

yeah they claimed 250hp don't know if that was at the fly or rw? at the fly 215rwhp/160rwkw would be close to 300hp, i've got a mate running a supra cooler in a rb20 powered r31 and its just not cutting it cooling wise. LOL

That's mine!! I sodded off the original wheels. I haggled the guy down to about 6k for it.

I thought it was a DR30 although I don't know what the difference is between and HR30 is (I thought the MR30 was the sedan HR30 was the Hatch) but yeah now looking at it you can tell it is a HR30 with bumpers, bonnet etc of a DR30 (you can tell by the tail lights.

They are only 250hp but they are only running 8psi, I am running 14.5 psi. So how much is a PSI worth in HP.

doesnt work like that ... depends on many other factors mainly effeciency range of the turbo and the heat generated by the turbo.

basically after a certain point (for ur turbo, 250hp flywheel) more boost simply overspins the turbo and generates heat. thus the inlet air is just too hot and no more power is made. this happens alot on stock turbos.

14.5 is pretty much 1bar isnt it. thats probably as much as you'd want to put through that turbo before u blow it haha and even if u ran about 13-13.5psi itd probably make very much the same power but with less stress on the turbo.

the rating for the turbo such as 250hp for ur rb20 one is the maximum power that the turbo can support when at maximum efficiency. ur probably right on that with 1bar boost, if not a touch over coz it is ceramic wheel and doesnt like too much boost/heat.

now now boys just because we thought of it first don't get pissed  :P .

remember my car had no engine when i bought it 2 years ago, so all i had as a referance was the 6 cylinder mr30 hatch i was driving at the time. then i found that web site kev's r30 or something which was the only info site i'd found back then.... anyone read it? that test drive section was what gave me the idea of putting in the rb20det and the rb20 just looks good when i lift the bonnet now thats its painted... :ghost:

:Oops: Oh no,we've been sprung! Not!! :D haha.I'm actually chucking out my RB20 and replacing it with an FJ!

In the end,it doesn't really matter,as long as our cars go hard!! Personally,I'd prefer to keep a DR30 FJ powered....HR30's are a bit different though :)

Doctor 30,the DR30's and HR30's are basicly the same car,but the DR's came out with the FJ20,whereas the HR's had an L series straight 6.(L20ET)

Yeah I figure that but now I look a bit of a dick with the doctor 30 user name driving an HR. :P

Looks like I'm going to be buying another turbo. What is a good CHEAP upgrade turbo that will bolt straight up and give me 300 horses (I know I am dreaming, I'll probably have to replace a heap of stuff)

But at least I am not full of crap about the estimated power.

Haha,don't worry about it! Check out my user name,and I drive an HR31.... :P

As for CHEAP turbo's for 300HP that bolt straight up......I think you'll have to modify oil/water lines at least.If you mean 300flywheel,maybe an RB25 unit? 2nd hand hi-flow T3,or maybe an old school T3/4.....

Yeah I figure that but now I look a bit of a dick with the doctor 30 user name driving an HR. :P

Looks like I'm going to be buying another turbo.  What is a good CHEAP upgrade turbo that will bolt straight up and give me 300 horses (I know I am dreaming, I'll probably have to replace a heap of stuff)

But at least I am not full of crap about the estimated power.

its all good mate you've got the best of both worlds there with your car, for starters the hr is around 100kg lighter than the dr, your car has the updated dr front so its got the look, you should be very close to the flywheel 300hp your looking for, the ecu, boost level, 3" zorst and fmic should be good for 30rwkw/40rwhp lets say 65-70 fly hp so that and the 215hp you started with. who knows maybe new plugs and a rutune might just get you there.

As the car is engineered it was put on the weighbridge and was 1100kg . I am only looking for 300hp at the flywheel. That is enough bragging rights against most cars on the road

Once I've fitted the supra IC I'll get it dyno tuned and see what happens. (Oh yeah and when I fix my drive shafts which are very rooted)

ive heard DR30's have a mechanical LSD standard? is this true? mine sorta feels abit like that but its quite worn out and goes 1 wheel alot so it needs a rebuild ... but if its already mechanical i can just get my current diff rebuilt wen i find the money.

anyone shed some light on if it is definately mechanical or viscous type? and im guessing it'd be 1.5way LSD correct?

i guess thier not adj camber tops with yours then?? thats what i was getting at as ghostrider was saying that to fit them to the r30 the front tops have to be revericed to fit the r30 towers which then means you get +chamber rather than -  :cheers:

yeh theyre adjustable, the stud pattern is just reversed, but they still work, i can dial in -8 degrees, it looks ridiculous!! :)

']ive heard DR30's have a mechanical LSD standard? is this true? mine sorta feels abit like that but its quite worn out and goes 1 wheel alot so it needs a rebuild ... but if its already mechanical i can just get my current diff rebuilt wen i find the money.

anyone shed some light on if it is definately mechanical or viscous type? and im guessing it'd be 1.5way LSD correct?

Yes they are a mechanical diff.I've heard the HR31 is a 2 way mech stock,but can't confirm that.I guess the '30s would be the same...?

thats cool. 2 way stock hey thats some hardcore drift action straight out of the factory haha :) have to look into rebuilding mine some time then. sweet. =]

rsx84 - yahoo japan has cars for auction. im not sure of exact address however if you search with Google and put Yahoo Auctions, im pretty sure the first or 2nd result on the list is Yahoo Japan auctions. it has a search box in the top left, and you just enter whatever into there. and it brings your results up. i was looking thru it at dr30's the other day :rofl: all in japanese though :cheers:

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