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Anthony - will be going on the cruise I think, as I'm in there most Sunday's anyways. Yeah the car is slowly taking shape. Just gotta find a bung for intake manifold and do a little bit here and there. When's your car getting the FJ put in it??

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Anthony - will be going on the cruise I think, as I'm in there most Sunday's anyways.  Yeah the car is slowly taking shape.  Just gotta find a bung for intake manifold and do a little bit here and there.  When's your car getting the FJ put in it??

Not sure when the FJ's going in my thing...I had a guy offer to buy my RB20 the other day,and said he'd get back to with a price......turns out his price was $650 for the engine and harness! pfffft,no thanks!

Just found out one of my BBS rims is fcuked! :hellpisd: :cuss: so I don't really fancy turning up at the cruise with 9inch rears,and stock alloys on the front :)

See what happens.....not happy at the moment. :(

Boof:- Nice looking DR there! and also nice to see an FJ20 stil living in the engine bay! hahah :)

DR30RS nah its not running yet, im getting ecu next week and then im hoping to have it all back and running in about 4-6 weeks!! Mate has been asking bout that turbo though, and from what im being told its going to be a pig to drive, lag city central :rofl: Yes rocker cover is going to get painted and plenum as well!! I want them back to red!!

Doctor30 hahaha rear suspsension hahaha..In that shot its got stupid springs in it (cut by previous owner), i've now got kings springs in it which sit it up prolly another 3 inches or something!!

RSX84 yerp still have them wheels on it mate!! Cars always been tekament front end mate, just i decked it nearly 8 months ago and have been majorly ****ed around by one guy and then brilliantly helped out by ghostrider!!

G'day all , had my clutch done today . Out with the 87K old std clamp and in with the three button sprung centre job . The diaphram spring is 1100kg . The original tailshaft went back in tired unis and all . These unis are staked at the factory and non repairable so what does everyone do ? When I had the Bluebird with the FJT and DR30 IRS I used a one piece shaft , is this the common fix .

Before I go am interested in what clutches others are using .

chow A .

nice looking DR. i like those copper rims too theyre pretty unique!

altho my DR sits about that low .. and it hasnt got cut springs just real low jap ones :) has fair bit of travel still ..! (tho back seat passengers find themselves airborn abit haha)

im going totally insane trying to pick an ECU atm it sucks. ive gone from Microtech from one guy, to 2nd hand Wolf V3, now im having 2nd thought and leaning back to a Microtech but from a workshop for ~2k, then considering Wolf V4 for ~2.2k from another workshop ... then had a guy come out of left field suggesting S15 ECU and Z32 AFM ! dunno wat im doing lol

My link computer is cheap and seems to do the biz, the hand held controler seemed to make the tuning of my car take less than 2 hrs from crap to good. But then again I don't know much about ecu's.

Disco- Yes it is a 2 piece that has been shortened by 2". Only problem is that the yoke should go in an extra 2". Dunno why the knob end had it shortened. It cost me all of $25 to fix 1 uni.

Got my RB20DET gearbox mounted up to the back of my FJ now. I'm happy. Standard tailshaft should be able to be used just need to cut the dust shroud of the front of it, gearbox mount sits about an inch back, and the shifter comes out about an inch forward. So it's all pretty straight forward stuff, 3 elongated holes in the bell housing and it bolts straight up. Slave cylinder and clutch fork is the same as Fj stuff. Gotta love nissan interchangability.

Coil overs and r33 brakes mounted in the front of the car too, which I think needs be raised a little as the wheels sits in the guard thats still jacked off the ground too, although with tein HE's I don't think they should move much when put on the ground.

Anyone know of any brands which supply decent sized swaybars for r30's? Whiteline only have bars which are smaller than what I already have.

Simple general question, and easier for WA peeps so i know where to go...

i wonder how much u say the exhaust system will cost for a dr30? my friend bought a 200sx this week and i gotta keep up with him so yeh :) sounds like doing that would be the next on my agenda...

and where to go to get it done? - thanks in advance

The trouble with thick anti roll bars is that they tend to make cars lift wheels off the ground . Needless to say the adhesion factor of airborn wheels is zip . The propper way to increase roll stiffness is to raise the spring rates . Contrary to popular belief high rate springs don't break your back teeth if you have adequate dampers .

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Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. 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