Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi every one. I'm back. Here's the PU (powered up) high flow based on a R33 2IU turbo. Note how we've modified the stock turbine inlet to increase its air ratio. Its running a custom sleeve bearing 3576 CHRA. I believe it can possibly push out close to 300rwkws with external gate.

(This high flow can be done with stock R33/4 turbo's comp housing)

puhousing1.jpg

The cost to do this high flow is $1200, and its high recommended to run it with a high pressure actautor at $150 additional.

With the 76mm comp housing it should hit 300rwkws with flate 21psi. We can alter the stock turbine housings even bigger if need to. This one is currently running off a modified gt35 turbine, Thats about the biggest we can stick in there.

Here are few more Photos of Powered Up high flowed R33 turbo with 2IU turbine housing:

Note the difference in volume of modifed turbine housing on the right:

housings.jpg

pufront.jpg

purear.jpg

Cant wait to see one come through, if you can find a decent donor car to test it (mechanically 100%) i will be happy to subsidise the tune for R&D.

Cant wait to see one come through, if you can find a decent donor car to test it (mechanically 100%) i will be happy to subsidise the tune for R&D.

Damn if only I was in Melbourne :P...

Cant wait to see one come through, if you can find a decent donor car to test it (mechanically 100%) i will be happy to subsidise the tune for R&D.

*cough*

:)

Very happy with results from the new turbo (g2), well worth the money. Turbo is installed, and pulls a lot harder through-out every gear. (just ripped a m3 lol)

Excellent product and customer service, and highly recommended.

-I just wish i saved all that money instead of getting gt 3040, spending big money on injectors, fuel pump, z32 tune etc etc just to get done by cops. Now i get similar power, and i mean similar! and all i got illegal is my t piece boost controller. Very satisfied.

Here is 2 pictures of my stock turbo V G2 to compare the difference for everyone to see.

dsc00005ane.th.jpg

dsc00007pm.th.jpg

if i had cash id put my car up as a test bed for the new 2IU setup, yet need to many supporting mods to jump so soon.

Cant wait to see the results either way

Very happy with results from the new turbo (g2), well worth the money. Turbo is installed, and pulls a lot harder through-out every gear. (just ripped a m3 lol)

Excellent product and customer service, and highly recommended.

-I just wish i saved all that money instead of getting gt 3040, spending big money on injectors, fuel pump, z32 tune etc etc just to get done by cops. Now i get similar power, and i mean similar! and all i got illegal is my t piece boost controller. Very satisfied.

Here is 2 pictures of my stock turbo V G2 to compare the difference for everyone to see.

dsc00005ane.th.jpg

dsc00007pm.th.jpg

Have you had it dynoed with the turbo?

Hi every one. I'm back. Here's the PU (powered up) high flow based on a R33 2IU turbo. Note how we've modified the stock turbine inlet to increase its air ratio. Its running a custom sleeve bearing 3576 CHRA. I believe it can possibly push out close to 300rwkws with external gate.

(This high flow can be done with stock R33/4 turbo's comp housing)

puhousing1.jpg

The cost to do this high flow is $1200, and its high recommended to run it with a high pressure actautor at $150 additional.

That is just awesome. I want, and will buy as soon as my PowerFC arrives :)

How is the response of this comapred to stock? Similar?

It wouldn't be very close to stock given how big the A/R is on it...I'm sure Stao could answer better but I imagine it would see full boost by 3800-4000rpm?

Cant wait to see one come through, if you can find a decent donor car to test it (mechanically 100%) i will be happy to subsidise the tune for R&D.

Donor right here! I have an unopened RB25 with circa 100,000km on it, completely standard / never boosted except for an exhaust system and Apexi power intake. Engine receives synthetic oil changes every 5000km :) Recently installed a Blitz CS return flow, have an 040 waiting to go in and my PowerFC is due to arrive in 3 weeks from Japan. Currently sourcing a Z32 AFM and looking at options for injectors. If you can wait the time (about a month at the minimum) let us know if you guys are both interested, as I'll be getting one of these installed and tuned either which way.

Have you had it dynoed with the turbo?

Not yet, im running MINES ecu which ill try to keep in there if AFR's are safe (will check on the dyno). Id be happy to run 14 psi, so i wont get the full benefits of the turbo but than again, i want to keep standard injectors etc etc Right now I drive it around on 14 psi with few other mods and car feels great. Once i slap on the cooler, ill check my AFR.

That is just awesome. I want, and will buy as soon as my PowerFC arrives :P

It wouldn't be very close to stock given how big the A/R is on it...I'm sure Stao could answer better but I imagine it would see full boost by 3800-4000rpm?

Donor right here! I have an unopened RB25 with circa 100,000km on it, completely standard / never boosted except for an exhaust system and Apexi power intake. Engine receives synthetic oil changes every 5000km :D Recently installed a Blitz CS return flow, have an 040 waiting to go in and my PowerFC is due to arrive in 3 weeks from Japan. Currently sourcing a Z32 AFM and looking at options for injectors. If you can wait the time (about a month at the minimum) let us know if you guys are both interested, as I'll be getting one of these installed and tuned either which way.

Ask trent at status about hiflow injectors, i have a set here that i probably wont be using, will need to be cleaned and flow tested just have not gotten around to it and its looking like im going to be using a 26 head not 25 so side feed injectors will be useless to me.

Very happy with results from the new turbo (g2), well worth the money. Turbo is installed, and pulls a lot harder through-out every gear. (just ripped a m3 lol)

Excellent product and customer service, and highly recommended.

-I just wish i saved all that money instead of getting gt 3040, spending big money on injectors, fuel pump, z32 tune etc etc just to get done by cops. Now i get similar power, and i mean similar! and all i got illegal is my t piece boost controller. Very satisfied.

Here is 2 pictures of my stock turbo V G2 to compare the difference for everyone to see.

dsc00005ane.th.jpg

dsc00007pm.th.jpg

Hi

Whats the response difference or lag difference between the G2 and the GT3040?

I have a R34 GTT Auto, a brought a GT3040(GT3082) with a .82 rear housing a while ago to put on. Now i think it might lag to much with the auto.

Am thinking of selling, to get the ATR43 G2 or get the original Skyline turbo high flowed.

PS. Only just found this forum topic and have just joined SAU

quick little video 5psi untuned

give you an idea on the induction noise

Sounds awesome mate! Post up one when you get tuned for comparison :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...