Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

At this stage for dyno sheet I only have one with a 1KG actuator, not a very good boost controller either.

http://www.digi-hardware.com/images/dynosh.../atr43360hp.jpg

The best result a customer had was 282rwkws on 17psi with a strong actuator. But have not yet sent me his dyno sheet.

A/R generally stands for the geometric characteristic of the housing. Bigger housings with greater A/R No. flows more, greater top end power, more lag. Small turbine housings picks up better response, but less top end. All turbine housings are made and machined here with cast steel with mixture of inconel.

oh ok, so you make your own rear housings? I know what the .82 means, i just didnt know if it was custom made or off a vl turbo or sumthing

i will keep in touch in regard to the ball bearing gt3076r with .82 rear bolt on housing (the front is the stock rb25 style housing too right?)

would u be able to do it for 1850 with stronger actuator fitted and delivered to perth ?

so just to confirm, its a straight bolt on, slighly shorter cartridge and needs lines to suit a garret gt30 core but everything else should bolt straight up fine?

Edited by snozzle
oh ok, so you make your own rear housings? I know what the .82 means, i just didnt know if it was custom made or off a vl turbo or sumthing

i will keep in touch in regard to the ball bearing gt3076r with .82 rear bolt on housing (the front is the stock rb25 style housing too right?)

would u be able to do it for 1850 with stronger actuator fitted and delivered to perth ?

so just to confirm, its a straight bolt on, slighly shorter cartridge and needs lines to suit a garret gt30 core but everything else should bolt straight up fine?

Yes its a custom made housing with flange to adapt to stock manifold and dump. The inside of it we can machine it to suit most of GT3x wheels.

Compressor housings we normally use .60 size with 3inch inlet and 2 inch round outlet. you are going to need a 90 degrees rubber hose and a 3inch straight hose if you are going to connect them to your stock intake and cooler pipes.

We can modify the GT30's bearing housings to suit stock water and oil lines. and supply the oil drain adaptor. So you don't need to get any aftermarket feeding lines

Price wise for the Garrett GT3076 56T with .82 custom bolton turbine housing, including modifications to bearing housing and high pressure actuator I can do for $2000 including GST delivered, Won't be able to do it any cheaper.

Ok just seeing if I understand this correctly:

- Standard High Flow R34 470hp, exterior is completely standard

- PU High Flow R33/34 500hp, exterior is completely standard

- ATR43G3: 520HP in .63 Rear, aftermarket turbo, so exterior is NOT standard

- ATR43G4: 600HP in .84 rear, aftermarket turbo, so exterior is NOT standard

- GT3076 spec turbo in .82 turbine housing, aftermarket turbo, so exterior is NOT standard

Is that right?

Edited by Harey

- Standard High Flow R34 470hp, exterior is completely standard

- PU High Flow R33/34 500hp, this includes .82 turbine housing and high pressure actuator. Standard Comp housing

- ATR43G3: 520HP in .63 Rear, aftermarket turbo, standard actuator. (high pressure actuator optional)

- ATR43G4: 600HP in .84 rear, aftermarket turbo, standard actuator. (high pressure actuator optional)

- GT3076 spec turbo in .82 turbine housing, exterior of compressor is standard, but aftermarket exhaust housing. standard actuator. (high pressure actuator optional)

All bearing housings has been modified to suit RB25's water lines, Oil lines for sleeve bearing models is supplied. Oil feeding thread for BB turbos has been modified to suit RB25's oil line. Oil drain adaptor for BB turbos is supplied.

Price wise for the Garrett GT3076 56T with .82 custom bolton turbine housing, including modifications to bearing housing and high pressure actuator I can do for $2000 including GST delivered, Won't be able to do it any cheaper.

That sounds fantastic!

Just took car for another run to realise i wasnt hitting r&r at 12psi. i had a dodgy afm connector. Realised this after idle started going weird. When in engine bay knocked afm plug and car stalled. fixed as best i can and running better hitting around 14.5 psi dosnt really start making boost until 3500 slowly builds up to about 4psi at 4000 and then it really starts taking off. hitting r&r flat stop around 12psi then keeps going. sounds quite mean when you slap throttle closed as running no BOV. gonna install wideband unit today hopefully then start alittle tunning

Edited by Crans

You need to run a BOV and reduce surge pressure. Not good for the turbo at all.

Any way, the standard actuator is ok about 15psi. You will need the high pressure actuator for any thing higher.

But should be able to get close to 270rwkws on 15psi with supporting mods and a good tune.

is the need for a bov based on problems/failed turbo's of yours? from what i know it is a myth. plenty of turbo cars have been released without a factory bov

You will find few fords with GT3582Rs twisted shafts due to BOV blockage. I've personally repaired few. All cars that came out of factory with a T25 or bigger size turbos are fitted with some sort of release valve. For the ones that didn't are not released for more then 7psi.

Just think about, what happens to the boost inside your cooler piping and cooler once the throttle is shut.

The turbine shaft is made to drive compressor wheel. not other way round. Surge at 20psi acts as a hammer striking on the comp wheels every time you let go the accelerator.

We did some minor fabrications to the compressor collars and comp side half shaft act against this problem. So far I've not seen any of our turbos having this type of issue.

How ever running a BOV for high boost application is a essential for any turbochargers that is out there.

You need to run a BOV and reduce surge pressure. Not good for the turbo at all.

Any way, the standard actuator is ok about 15psi. You will need the high pressure actuator for any thing higher.

But should be able to get close to 270rwkws on 15psi with supporting mods and a good tune.

What boost will the standard actuator run at with out any other forms of boost control?

standard will run about 9 psi without boost controller. Once boost controller is adapted it can hold a max of 15psi to red line. High pressure actuators are ok to hold 21psi.

Quick question Stao, (and anyone else that can assist)

With the actuator controlling my hiflow turbo, i currently run 14 psi.

I get 14 psi by 3 500 RPM but by the time i get to 6-7000RPM, boost drops to 11PSI, every gear. Have you heard of this problem before and where do you think the problem is.

I have checked the Cooler-all ok

Took off exhaust- Still same problem.

What else would you suggest? I just want to run 14 psi constantly. Cheers Stao.

check intake pipe (make sure it does not shut under boost). pre-load few rounds on the actuator or go for the high pressure actuator.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...