Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

kwickr33:

Yes we have internal wastegate kit for your turbo. will cost $200 with bracket and high pressure actautor.

Gtscott:

We buy Garrett bearings, seals plus certain bearing housings and we do our own assembly.

Hey Stao, I'm looking to upgrade to a TR43 G1 with a .63AR in the next month or so.

What sort of wastegate actuator options do I have?

I know you don't typically make them with anything less than like 10psi for skylines etc.

but for my X-trail, i need a low boost setup to work off before i raise the boost with a controller.

If I was to order one, can you include a 5psi actuator?

Thanks!

Little update:

I've managed to build a "HKS2530" in a larger .86 T2x turbine housing with OEM RB25det bolton pattern for RB25det engines. Should produce identical amount of power with similar response and better torque for the Rb25s.

Photos:

turbo.jpg

housing1.jpg

housing2.jpg

any chance you have a garret gt30 ex hausing with rb style flange on there do you?internally gated if possible

Yes we can do that.

The GTRS would be a smaller trimed 2871R. I'm also building one with larger comp trim. My engine is almost finished. I will put that on and see what happens.

im just looking to buy a garrett gt30 rear exhaust housing,i believe the genuine garrett option is best suited to my turbo,gt30 71r non cropped turbine

The genuine Garrett GT30 internally gated turbine housing I have a listing for $650AUD including GST brand new in .82 A/R.

Can i ask, which turbo and housing is best for r33.

Thing is: i dont wanna upgrade injectors, PFC, z32 etc.

I just want to run MINES ECU, Bosch fuel pump, exhaust and cooler on 14 psi, (stock injectors and z32). So around 225kw is probably aim, but would have to be responsive.

Stao how are you mate...

im after a turbo for my car gt 3540 - 2530 but i want the power of the 3540 with more response... is there a half way kinda turbo out there td06? or something i was told.... now im after 230 awkw on the gts4 but im gona want more later on..... ive spoken to you late last year.. about this but theres so many to choose from.. whats gona be best for my rb20 ?

regards George

Can i ask, which turbo and housing is best for r33.

Thing is: i dont wanna upgrade injectors, PFC, z32 etc.

I just want to run MINES ECU, Bosch fuel pump, exhaust and cooler on 14 psi, (stock injectors and z32). So around 225kw is probably aim, but would have to be responsive.

That is the easiest question ever to answer.... the factory turbo, as your Mines ecu is tuned only for the std turbo and std afm. It will run with the z32 but the map scaling will be up the shit.

If you do swap the turbo it will just be a matter of time before you have a nice mess on your hands.

Stao how are you mate...

im after a turbo for my car gt 3540 - 2530 but i want the power of the 3540 with more response... is there a half way kinda turbo out there td06? or something i was told.... now im after 230 awkw on the gts4 but im gona want more later on..... ive spoken to you late last year.. about this but theres so many to choose from.. whats gona be best for my rb20 ?

regards George

A gt3540 will make 400rwkw a 2530 will make 230rwkw..... big difference.

Hi George you can use our ATR43G3 in .63 turbine. It can get you about 240~60rwkws internally gated on RB20det with full boost around 4500RPM or some thing like this:

This is a ATR43G3 .63 turbo with built in External gate that is designed to bolton to stock RB20det's manifold, dump, and all lines.

Image0021.jpg

Image0024.jpg

Image0025.jpg

Image0031.jpg

Image0033.jpg

Above was built for a Rb20det customer.

Also like to add all of our HPVA external wastegate are equipped with a Genuine Tail 38mm external gate Diaphragm:

taildiaphram.jpg

Stao will the ATR43G3 in .63 turbine do 230-260 awkw comfortably ? i dont wana be driving around on 21 pound lol

also if i can get 260 kw i think thats plenty coming from an rb20... might stick to the atr43g3 with .63 also price it with internal gate please ta!

Edited by v8tzr

Yes you need to run 20psi to get about 260rwkws with stock rb20det. This engines need abit of boost to make power.

For comfortably I would say around 245rwkws. with about 18psi of boost.

Yes you need to run 20psi to get about 260rwkws with stock rb20det. This engines need abit of boost to make power.

For comfortably I would say around 245rwkws. with about 18psi of boost.

Price? on one of these? will be purchasing within the month..

Price on those is $1450 including braided oil feeding line and GST. will cost $150 more If you want external gate built it, which is highly recommended for high boost applications.

This also includes 12 month warranty for all high performance applications. Means your warranty does not void if you run 24psi every day like I do and drift it 24/7.

hey stao,

Im running the older version of your turbo turbo the tr43i .63 on a r33 on 17.5 psi and getting fullboost at about 4500 and 260kw, wondering how much difference your new atr43 g3 would run? would it be less laggier?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...