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You are going to need a 2.5 inch to 3 inch reducer pipe in 45 degrees, connect that into a 3inch straight metal pipe, then a 3inch straight hose to AFM with a good pod filter fitted.

Stock BOV is a big problem. Once stock BOV is disconnected from factory intake pipe it will "not leak" but instead sucking un-measured air in before hitting with positive boost pressure. So you can either fit a One way valve in between the vacuum source or get a aftermarket BOV.

To do either of that you must re-locate your AFM into cooler piping, Block off the factory BOV port and fit your BOV before the AFM. else it will affect idle on deceleration (or you can decelerate in gear which will has no affect on idle).

You are going to need a 2.5 inch to 3 inch reducer pipe in 45 degrees, connect that into a 3inch straight metal pipe, then a 3inch straight hose to AFM with a good pod filter fitted.

Stock BOV is a big problem. Once stock BOV is disconnected from factory intake pipe it will "not leak" but instead sucking un-measured air in before hitting with positive boost pressure. So you can either fit a One way valve in between the vacuum source or get a aftermarket BOV.

To do either of that you must re-locate your AFM into cooler piping, Block off the factory BOV port and fit your BOV before the AFM. else it will affect idle on deceleration (or you can decelerate in gear which will has no affect on idle).

Wow that sounds like a major pain in the arse. Surely there is a simpler way.

Is the factory rubber pipe the right size?

I have read someone with 300rwkw did this:

- Intake pipe strengthened with internal steel pipe to stop sucking close

Is this an option?

As long as the intake pipe is no more restrictive than the MAF sensor you should not loose power.

that's the rev210 mod... search it... massive thread

i did the same... shoved a 3" stainless steel pipe in there... works a treat. no issues whatsoever.

Cant you just make a 3inch intake pipe then use a 2.5inch to 3inch silicon off the turbo to amke it fit and whats the probelm with the bov that has to make it change the afm and what not?

stao, im still not 100% happy with your response, i paid $150 extra for a high pressure actuator (15-18 psi you clamied) ... so can you give me a better response then " I need a metal intake pipe" to resolve the fact the actuator is only holding 12psi?

i have the rev210 mod and trent (status) said it wasnt sucking shut... the metal intake pipe will not help me pick up and hold 4 psi

stao, im still not 100% happy with your response, i paid $150 extra for a high pressure actuator (15-18 psi you clamied) ... so can you give me a better response then " I need a metal intake pipe" to resolve the fact the actuator is only holding 12psi?

i have the rev210 mod and trent (status) said it wasnt sucking shut... the metal intake pipe will not help me pick up and hold 4 psi

From what boost is it dropping to 12 from? on mine it drops from about 17.5 to 14.8 on redline its more due to because of it being a 0.63.

The turbo is running in .63 rear housing. the actuator on it has a 1.3KG spring loaded. You will definitely get a boost drop due to intake pipe restriction. It doesn't necessarily shut in full. But more partially shut in different areas.

You will get a higher boost reading with a 3inch metal intake pipe and a slight adjustment with actautor pre-load, or actautor pre-load along.

The later versions runs a waste gate control valve like what i've made for Ric's car. I've made one and tried to ring you today for pickup had no answer. Once that is installed you can hold what ever boost you want. Please ring me and organize a date and time to pick up this part.

yeah ric, stao is right.. its a 0.63, not 0.82 ;)

its peaking at 17.5 and dropping and holding 12 psi... i have performed the rev210 metal intake mod to prevent the intake closing...

also the maximum amount of preload has been set.... no more thread left on the adjustable rod

do you have a higher sprung actuator then the one you proveded me?

Well I've noticed mine stock intake pipe twists under high boost with a bigger turbo (ATR43G4). It twisted and stood up like a rattle snake with AFM and filter removed. I have my afm in between cooler piping. Then shut and car breaks down.

ended up tuning with no intake pipe or filter. worked heaps better.

I haven't tried this new wastage valve thingy, but with my OP6 rear, the .63's won't hold flat boost. I've got a mammoth actuator on the car at the moment (boost controller off it runs 18psi :D) but will always drop that 3-4psi etc. That's the housing, not the actuator.

And i'm pretty sure you'll find that with any turbo of similar size, you're not going to hold that sort of psi to redline. GCG highflow, HKS GTRS, HKS 2835 ProS... you'll find very similar boost curves.

We overlaid a HKS 2835ProS boost curve with my OP6 rear housing curve, and they were very similar... the HKS just held out every so slightly longer, but it was very similar (and also a $4k kit i believe)

So it's not an issue with they hypergear highflows... it's just a trade off for having a housing that is more street friendly.

To be honest, i'm glad it doesn't run 17 or whatever at redline, even running E85, i'm not fussed it tapers off a bit. Sure it doesn't look pretty on a graph... but i'm sure your engine is preferring it :D

The turbo is running in .63 rear housing. the actuator on it has a 1.3KG spring loaded. You will definitely get a boost drop due to intake pipe restriction. It doesn't necessarily shut in full. But more partially shut in different areas.

You will get a higher boost reading with a 3inch metal intake pipe and a slight adjustment with actautor pre-load, or actautor pre-load along.

The later versions runs a waste gate control valve like what i've made for Ric's car. I've made one and tried to ring you today for pickup had no answer. Once that is installed you can hold what ever boost you want. Please ring me and organize a date and time to pick up this part.

Stao the intake pipe is not the issue on this car. The actuator is fully preloaded.... it has no thread left to wind in more. Have you got a 18psi base pressure actuator available still? I know we are going to get drop but it could be improved a little with more preload.

I havent used the new mod you are doing to the turbos (like ricks actuator flap restricor) but im concerned about big spikes on gear changes, have you had much feed back? i really don't want to play guinea cop with a customer. (NOT CRITICISM JUST A QUESTION)

Stao the intake pipe is not the issue on this car. The actuator is fully preloaded.... it has no thread left to wind in more. Have you got a 18psi base pressure actuator available still?

I havent used the new mod you are doing to the turbos (like ricks actuator flap restricor) but im concerned about big spikes on gear changes, have you had much feed back? i really don't want to play guinea cop with a customer.

I would like to know this too! 18psi wastegate actuator would be much preferred!

Stao the intake pipe is not the issue on this car. The actuator is fully preloaded.... it has no thread left to wind in more. Have you got a 18psi base pressure actuator available still? I know we are going to get drop but it could be improved a little with more preload.

I havent used the new mod you are doing to the turbos (like ricks actuator flap restricor) but im concerned about big spikes on gear changes, have you had much feed back? i really don't want to play guinea cop with a customer.

i don't want to be said guinea p1g either :down:

someone else try it and let me know how it goes :)

Surely an 18psi wastegate actuator is the proper way to hold boost to redline as well (assuming it must be internally gated). The other way sounds like a band aid to me.

Edited by Harey

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