Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is the exhaust housing the the only difference between the HKS 2835 pro s and the Garrett 3071?

No. The 2835 has a cropped rear wheel.

For whatever reason, cropping the rear wheel seems to do wonders for the turbo.

Cool I thought there were quite a few different things. Its definitely my favourite turbo for the RB25.

+1, I have seen videos of them running.. Theres a guy on youtube with a RB25 and 2835 who later build a 25/30 running a 35R.. The resulting videos are interesting.. You could swear the RB25 setup is faster. Theres a difference of 90rwkw according to the poster.

I regret not hunting one out myself.

This is the cheapest one I can find:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

$3800

I am getting a hypergear hiflow made up instead, cant wait.

after 3 weeks off the road so far (my fault, broke manifold > turbo stud. Not to mention needing a whole heap of exhaust/intake mods after the car went in) I'm looking to have my car back on the road this friday running the ATR43G2. Can't wait to see results, will post up.

my mods will be...

ATR43G2 0.82 ex internal wastegate w/ 14psi actuator

Nismo 740cc red tops

Bosch 044 mounted in tank

Splitfires w/ BCPR7ES (not sure on gap, tuner recommended)

ViPEC v44 ECU controlling boost

JJR 3" mild steel bellmouth dump/front, more than likely gutted cat, 3.5" catback

3" metal intake, running MAP sensor

phat intercooler, nfi on brand or dimensions

I'm hoping to see 280rwkw @ 18psi, but will be happy with 270rwkw. Dyno printout will be posted.

Edited by Trozzle
This is the cheapest one I can find:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

$3800

I am getting a hypergear hiflow made up instead, cant wait.

I was under the impression you had a high flow already?

Is your high flow going to be made of 3071 specs?

I was under the impression you had a high flow already?

Is your high flow going to be made of 3071 specs?

Long story, I had paid a deposit and ended up postponing the sale. Stao is a legend, very good to deal with.

I havent decided yet. I am a bit of a power whore, I want my car to feel quick and am happy to loose some traction in lower gears. Stao took me for a spin in the ATR43G3 last week and I was very impressed with that. So at this stage I am leaning towards a hi flow with that and obviously 0.82 exhaust housing.

I judge a car by the biggest smile it puts on my face and if the other car has beaten me cause of traction, thats ok :D

The HKS 2835 Pro S was more just researching all options.

Edited by Harey
after 3 weeks off the road so far (my fault, broke manifold > turbo stud. Not to mention needing a whole heap of exhaust/intake mods after the car went in) I'm looking to have my car back on the road this friday running the ATR43G2. Can't wait to see results, will post up.

my mods will be...

ATR43G2 0.82 ex internal wastegate w/ 14psi actuator

Nismo 740cc red tops

Bosch 044 mounted in tank

Splitfires w/ BCPR7ES (not sure on gap, tuner recommended)

ViPEC v44 ECU controlling boost

JJR 3" mild steel bellmouth dump/front, more than likely gutted cat, 3.5" catback

3" metal intake, running MAP sensor

phat intercooler, nfi on brand or dimensions

I'm hoping to see 280rwkw @ 18psi, but will be happy with 270rwkw. Dyno printout will be posted.

Ah cool, so your going the hypergear as well.

Were the intake mods required just because of the MAP sensor? I will be using nistune and a Z32 AFM so I assume those mods dont apply to me. I was just going to run the metal pipe inside the standard rubber intake, then the Z32 AFM and a HKS Power intake pod. My cooler is very stealth and hard to spot, so my plan when I get pulled over is "I just have a pod filter sir".

Ah cool, so your going the hypergear as well.

Were the intake mods required just because of the MAP sensor? I will be using nistune and a Z32 AFM so I assume those mods dont apply to me. I was just going to run the metal pipe inside the standard rubber intake, then the Z32 AFM and a HKS Power intake pod. My cooler is very stealth and hard to spot, so my plan when I get pulled over is "I just have a pod filter sir".

he just listed the map sensor in the wrong paragraph, map sensor (plumbed to intake manifold) and intake pipe are no way related so it wont affect you.

he just listed the map sensor in the wrong paragraph, map sensor (plumbed to intake manifold) and intake pipe are no way related so it wont affect you.

Thanks Trent.

Catherine is booking me in for a tune in October with you :D

Only issue with that last dyno plot tao is the power falls over after 5,600rpm. I wonder how far it would fall if you kept going till 7,000rpm?

But yes its quite responsive, very impressive. Hard to have everything I suppose.

That was from wheel spin. Sam's straps broke before that run. It wasn't straped down.

That was from wheel spin. Sam's straps broke before that run. It wasn't straped down.

Oh wow did you ever get it strapped down on a dyno later on?

When you say customised GT30, you mean its a ball bearing GT30 wheel and you customised it?

Edited by Harey
Oh wow did you ever get it strapped down on a dyno later on?

When you say customised GT30, you mean its a ball bearing GT30 wheel and you customised it?

No. I did another run with the G3 then I had engine issues. This is a sleeve bearing turbo. I modified the shaft to fit with little bit of crop.

Ah cool, so your going the hypergear as well.

Were the intake mods required just because of the MAP sensor? I will be using nistune and a Z32 AFM so I assume those mods dont apply to me. I was just going to run the metal pipe inside the standard rubber intake, then the Z32 AFM and a HKS Power intake pod. My cooler is very stealth and hard to spot, so my plan when I get pulled over is "I just have a pod filter sir".

Well the comp housing of the turbo sits a couple of inches forward, and it's 3" instead of standard 2.5". I was originally going to do the metal intake mod and remove the AFM, then use a 2.5" > 3" silicon adapter...but I'm not sure if it's going to work. Since I snapped a stud, I left it to the workshop to finish the job. The exhaust housing also sits a couple of inches further BACK, so they sent it to their fabricator to modify my front pipe to make it shorter, and sort out the whole intake. Originally they believed I wouldn't be able to reuse any of the standard intake even with the metal piping mod I'd already done up, but they've since told me they might be able to reuse the whole thing, or at least salvage most of it. I'll see what they say when they get it back from the fabricator.

For the get the best result:

Run 3inch metal intake pipe with pod

3 inch turbo back exhaust, Perfer to drop the exhaust from front pipe.

Do not restrict intake. Doing so will reduce power, drop boost, and cause turbine side to over heat.

Yes, the stock rubber intake (even with metal insert) is no good with the ATR43.

I made a nice metal intake out of a 45degree 3inch peice of exhaust pipe i picked up... (i welded in the bov return and breather) to the pipe aswell. Painted it black and unless you really REALLY know what you're looking for, my engine bay looks bog stock. I even got the stock heat sheild back over the ATR43 with a small custom bracket ;)

I'm running ATR43G2 .82

Z32, injectors... ect. ect.

My last dyno run got 266, with the stock (completely bent into an S shape) rubber intake and airbox. Boost dropped off considerably due to this

will be going back to the dyno very shortly and i will be very suprised if I don't get above 280... The car feels WAY more responsive and more powerfull now with the metal intake

Harey your dump will fit up, just might need to ask it nicely :blink:

Yes, the stock rubber intake (even with metal insert) is no good with the ATR43.

I made a nice metal intake out of a 45degree 3inch peice of exhaust pipe i picked up... (i welded in the bov return and breather) to the pipe aswell. Painted it black and unless you really REALLY know what you're looking for, my engine bay looks bog stock. I even got the stock heat sheild back over the ATR43 with a small custom bracket ;)

I'm running ATR43G2 .82

Z32, injectors... ect. ect.

My last dyno run got 266, with the stock (completely bent into an S shape) rubber intake and airbox. Boost dropped off considerably due to this

will be going back to the dyno very shortly and i will be very suprised if I don't get above 280... The car feels WAY more responsive and more powerfull now with the metal intake

Harey your dump will fit up, just might need to ask it nicely :blink:

Legend thanks!

So you are staying with the airbox?

I read a big thread from Status about up at these power levels the pod filter is far superior than the airbox. It depends if your intercooler is obvious. If it is then yeah it will give you too much police hassles.

Edited by Harey

So you are staying with the airbox?

Kinda LOL. From the top it looks like I'm staying with the stock airbox...

But infact there's very little plastic left on either side of it and no bottom at all. With a nice pod filter hidden inside it :P

I was gonna build a pod enclosure, but i wanted to re-use the snorkel for a bit of cold air intake.

So i got my grinder out and started chopping the crap out of the bottom half of the air box.

Now i have an enclosure AND a snorkel for cold air intake :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...