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What I like is how the boost drops down to 18psi from 6,000rpm onwards, reduces a bit of stress on the engine for the top rpm.

I would have thought the main stress on the engine is as boost comes on and you get the 20psi rush. :happy:

I would have thought the main stress on the engine is as boost comes on and you get the 20psi rush. :)

Hmmm I mean 20psi anywhere is causing stress on the engine but I believe it would cause less stress if it happens between 3-4,000rpm instead of 6-7,000rpm.

Hmmm I mean 20psi anywhere is causing stress on the engine but I believe it would cause less stress if it happens between 3-4,000rpm instead of 6-7,000rpm.

I think you will find there is more air/fuel entering the chamber at lower revs and the crank is accelerating violently around that point. It would depend what your torque curve looks like of course, and the boost curve. Most rod failures at the top end would be due to lack of oil more than anything wouldnt they?

Perhaps one of the tuners here can tell us where the rod failures seem to occur?

Tuners ideally wouldn't be present when rod failure happens, but the rods suffer far more from extra revs than boost itself. Obviously more boost and more revs are going to compound it, but with a good tune I'd say 4500rpm at 20psi is going to have nothing on 7500rpm and 1bar. Detonation is the other thing that owns rods....

surely the pressure in the cylinder from the combustion process is much greater than anything else

The force of a controlled combustion process (ignition wavefront chasing the piston) has nothing on detonation, the majority of the stress is pulling the piston up and down the shaft at funny angles. Remember the piston will be going that way anyway... the bang just speeds up the rate it does it :)

Keeping the RPM to a sensible level and a good tune can keep for a fairly happy grunty engine for ages though there is naturally going to be faster wear when the pressures are up.

I think I may have temporarily fixed my boost issue. I won't go into detail of what's causing it, but I know what it is just not why it's happening. Dicking with the actuator rod seems to have resolved it, and I'll be putting it on the rollers again Wednesday to have the tune touched up etc.

Thanks again to Stao for all the info and support he's given me over the phone :P

Quick update: This is for people with certain models of WRX or Legacy. This is the high flow service for the RHF5 factory turbo chargers. Which we modify them in to sleeve / BB 2860RS specifications. Good for 320HP.

Please click below for more information:

comphousings.JPG

I think I may have temporarily fixed my boost issue. I won't go into detail of what's causing it, but I know what it is just not why it's happening. Dicking with the actuator rod seems to have resolved it, and I'll be putting it on the rollers again Wednesday to have the tune touched up etc.

Thanks again to Stao for all the info and support he's given me over the phone :)

Details and your theory would be good and might help others like myself battling lag

Generally this happens when the mechanic tries to rotate the housing or part the turbo for unknown reasons without adjust the actuator rod to the right length.

Tozzle's turbo was parted by his mechanic pre-installation. I'm not sure if all bits lined up back to what it was. By design nothing should hit or Jam, and we check that before it was sent out.

ATR43 Turbocharger involves labor from 3 experienced engineers to complete with many man hours spent. I'll be happy to go through our work, in case of any of our human errors or defects at no cost as part of our warranty policy.

Crane: With your ATR28 unit, I've asked you to return it for checkup for numerous times, the end result is beneficial to your self. You do not have to worry about warranty expiry, No charges will be laid on you, So please act.

Please do contact us or email us for assistance if any one else experiencing any difficulties with any of our services. We are here to help and assist.

As Stao said, my mechanic's derped.

HOPEFULLY I can conclude this was the case when I have a chance to remove the dump pipe and have a looky, then get it sorted.

Stao,

Yes I do plan on sending the turbo back to you to get checked out but i have to wait until i can have my car off the road for a week or 2. Public transport in my area is pretty sad. I will try and remove it this weekend.

I had to clock my turbo my self as nothing lined up on the rb25, i cant see that the actuator is being fowled on anything, but i aint no turbo expert, hopefully it is something simple like that

Crans: Well Its a ATR28 not ATR43 so there is a slight difference in housing position. Before you remove he turbo. Can you check to see if your Vtec controller is working? I'm currently having intermediate issues with it and there is a massive difference in response when its playing up. See if you can get a Tick sound when power is connected to the controller.

Little update: We are working on Ceramic ball bearing cartridges at this stage. its very difficult in finding the right bearings and modifying bearing housings to fit. It will be a water cooled Duel ceramic cartridged core. Should have a hopefully working prototype this weekend. Fingers crossed.

bearinghousing.jpg

This is a slight twiked version of ATR43G3 .82 rear that is commercially available. It made 290rwkws@17psi with actual 200rwkws @ 4000RPMs. Turbo's capable of pushing over 300rwkws. Customer's concert about his engine. Fully stock R33 RB25det engine with stock cams and cam gears 98 fuel.

So for 200rwkws by 4000RPMS in .82 rear is possbile, and we've done it on a fully standard setup, 98 fuel with our turbocharger.

atr43g3p2290rwkw.jpg

How was it slightly modified? Looks like a very good result for 17psi

Got a boost graph?

Its the difference in comp wheel engineering, and with a .70 comp housing. It was fairly responsive, had full boost by 3800rpms. I didn't get a boost curve, I will see trent again soon and grab a copy.

Nice solid result - I've never doubted the possibility of 200kw by 4000rpm.... I'd be able to do it fine with my GT30R but I'm personally not keen enough to push the boost through a stock motor needed to make 200wkw by 4000rpm (would be around 20psi or so), but its a nice power delivery. Seems to come on a bit faster than the other ones you've posted - should drive well. Be interesting to know what was changed!

Stao, what's the main difference between the G1 - 4? If I have the G2 0.82 and am making 285rwkw on 15psi, I would expect similar on 17psi as above. Not that it's a bad thing at all :laugh: just curious as to my results compared to the above.

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