Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nothing has changed since the tune, that's why I'm not worried. If Efi performance is half as good as everyone thinks then I don't have anything to worry about. The horrendous noise was there before and (im assuming) during the tune so that's not an issue until I fix it. $69 for the gasket at Nissan and there is none in Australia.

Yes it has, you said when you got it it was running 20psi in the midrange and 14psi at redline, now its running 20psi at redline, thats a huge difference!!

I'm actually doubting the tuners abilities. Its only been losing boost about 1/6 of the time since I've had it back. It's only at certain throttle positions. If I do a slow throttle up to wot it will hold 21/22 all the way. I think they just didn't want to work on it again and just did a quick tune and said that will do. It drives normally and boosts normally but the change over from vac-boost is very rough. It kind of surges and bounces around. I'm trying to get it booked in at a different dyno. Il make up the air adapter today and check for leaks upto about 30psi and if I can't find any I will just get it re tuned.

I'm actually doubting the tuners abilities. Its only been losing boost about 1/6 of the time since I've had it back. It's only at certain throttle positions. If I do a slow throttle up to wot it will hold 21/22 all the way. I think they just didn't want to work on it again and just did a quick tune and said that will do. It drives normally and boosts normally but the change over from vac-boost is very rough. It kind of surges and bounces around. I'm trying to get it booked in at a different dyno. Il make up the air adapter today and check for leaks upto about 30psi and if I can't find any I will just get it re tuned.

I wouldnt go pointing the finger at the tuner...I drove 6 hours to have Sean tune my car last week with a nistune. My car drives so much better and is more fuel efficient as it was running like a pig before hand. I highly doubt it would of just been a case of lets just throw it in the to hard basket as I watched them tune my car personally and it wasnt a case of a "quick tune"

Reading your posts you have a few things to get sorted...Boost control is all over the place for starters and all these sounds you hear? Yet you just point the finger at the tuner for this? I mean you ring up and ask for a tune and thats wat youll get...You ring up and ask for a tune but before hand fix my problems which may be a leaking gasket or a joiner or just go over the car and make sure its 100% prior to rolling it on the dyno.

I don't point my finger at the tuner for that sole reason. But let's see I pay for them to remove my front shaft. They couldn't do it, I still had to pay. It took me 10 minutes and I don't even have a jack. It's not so much seans abilities I doubt as his commitment to do a good job. I have attempted to use 4 different tuners over the years and at the end of the day I ended up getting my wife to road tune out the problems on the way home. I will admit one of them was happy to tell me he had no idea what he was doing, he had never tuned a haltech before.

And incase you only just started reading my posts. I didn't think it was an air leak before it went on the dyno. I assumed it was detonation.

I have been removing parts slowly to see if any of them are the cause for my problems. The only source I have found for the strange noise is the missing dump pipe bolt that can't be installed with a jjr 3"bellmouth dump, ive jammed a bolt in the hole tempoarily, I will weld it up when I get a chance. And clearly I don't have a boost control issue when I don't have a boost control.

Next point you don't ring Efi performance for anything because they lack the ability to answer the phone 95% of the time.

Edited by lilcrash

Probably because they are flat out working. The phone takes up alot of time, and its always the most important person in the wokshop that the custoner wants to talk to.

Be patient and im sure u will get in contact with them.

With the number of cars they had in there its perfectly understandable that they are busy and can't get to the phone. That's why I gave up and ended up using email to organize everything. That way they can answer when they have time. I think some of you are quick to be against me in my ramblings. If you paid to have your car tuned and even after they got the tune to what they consider acceptable to be picked up by the customer, driving home you had the check engine light on countless times, black clouds out the exhaust and just general rough running. Would you be satisfied?? I understand that yes there is a problem somewhere in the pressure side of the intake, but this was there during the tune so it has been written into the tune and should run accordingly.

Just get the car mechanically sound first, please dont rush back to the tuners and probably avoid driving it while your at it.

Ive always found that if I tell a tuner I built something myself or Im running any level of dubious component in the car they will be on the backfoot from the get go. Avoid saying too much, if anything tell them you have a garrett on the car or something.

I spent a day a few weeks ago eliminating possible problems with my own car. I ended up removing a busted EGR valve, a broken purge valve, the charcoal can setup, meters of old vacuum lines and a cooler pipe and bov that had been toughing for a while and had worn holes in eachother. This is a car that has been tuned and running for half a decade. Would you believe it ran tonnes better after I fixed all that?

Back to basics for you just like it was for me, you will find the problem(S) and once fixed you can get it retuned and be happy as a pig in sh*t.

I'm actually doubting the tuners abilities. Its only been losing boost about 1/6 of the time since I've had it back. It's only at certain throttle positions. If I do a slow throttle up to wot it will hold 21/22 all the way. I think they just didn't want to work on it again and just did a quick tune and said that will do. It drives normally and boosts normally but the change over from vac-boost is very rough. It kind of surges and bounces around. I'm trying to get it booked in at a different dyno. Il make up the air adapter today and check for leaks upto about 30psi and if I can't find any I will just get it re tuned.

Most tuners don't like working on cars with issues as they aren't the ones that normally fix this stuff and it makes tuning very difficult. If it only happens some times it sounds like it could be when the engine torques over either an intercooler hose, intake manifold gasket or exhaust gasket is leaking. Once you get the leak or whatever is causing this issue fixed take it back.

I had a similar issue, the wrong gasket had been used between the two halves of the intake manifold, leaked all the time and when at peak torque would leak extra bad making a trumpet sound, only at peak torque and not always though. Was a total flamin mongrel to find and fix.

When you pressure test the intake get a crow bar and put some mild leverage on the intake and intercooler pipes. You might find something that leaks when it gets twisted (when the engine torques over).

Edited by Rolls

Yer I'm deffinately going to take my time, I want to tidy up my engine bay anyway.

Rolls - that's a good point, I know my engine lifts atleast 35-40mm as I am slowly getting a dint in my blow off valve return pipe. It hits the strut brace.

From experience a small leak won't affect boost drop by alot.

If you are taking it back to the dyno make sure you have a pod filter or a air box with no lid and filter.

From experience a small leak won't affect boost drop by alot.

If you are taking it back to the dyno make sure you have a pod filter or a air box with no lid and filter.

knocked 4psi off mine! only had 2 cylinders leaking as well.

What gasket are you trying to find?

Find the leak/s first then replace gaskets as needed.

The gasket between the top and bottom of the plenum. Happened to me. Guy doing the tune (not my current tuner) swapped in some bigger injectors and misaligned the gasket. Made a really strange noise and was hard to track down. My guess for a likely suspect as (possibly one) of the problems here.

I have been removing parts slowly to see if any of them are the cause for my problems. The only source I have found for the strange noise is the missing dump pipe bolt that can't be installed with a jjr 3"bellmouth dump, ive jammed a bolt in the hole tempoarily, I will weld it up when I get a chance. And clearly I don't have a boost control issue when I don't have a boost control.

Wut? I know it's tight in there but I still managed to get all 4 bolts and 2 nuts tightened, had to use a very short open-ended spanner though.

Mayb yours if different to mine. The hole is almost against the pipe, it's drilled into the weld.

You can still get it in. I bashed one of my dumps with a hammer to get it in. You might think it doesn't fit but get an open spanner on it and it will go in. Pack alot of washers in there to close the gap earlier. I got two stainless JJR dumps and one mild steel. All SEEMED impossible but managed to get them all done after a f**kload of swearing.

The gasket between the top and bottom of the plenum. Happened to me. Guy doing the tune (not my current tuner) swapped in some bigger injectors and misaligned the gasket. Made a really strange noise and was hard to track down. My guess for a likely suspect as (possibly one) of the problems here.

Point him towards the diy section on here, then he can learn how to change injectors without taking the plenum off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...