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I cannot comment on how the voltage drop may affect the tune however it will not shut the car down. If your skyline is affected by your brake lights then there is something wrong. What happens when you put your headlights on, ac on and rear demister???

My patrol has the same size alternator and the winch pulls around 400amps and in much longer events......Normally 3-4 mins X 4 - 5 times depending on the situation without a problem at all. Yes the battery is bigger than your average skyline but not by a great deal.

^^^It pulls 300 amps

Gah, so it is.

Maybe a couple of truck alternators might do the trick then? :)

Either way, perhaps sell them as a package along with some significantly up rated generation in the from of a massive or second alternator and bigger battery? Sure, it'll add significant cost, but it'll also be done properly.

I wonder if I could fit one on my R1?

Edited by Cowboy1600

I cannot comment on how the voltage drop may affect the tune however it will not shut the car down. If your skyline is affected by your brake lights then there is something wrong. What happens when you put your headlights on, ac on and rear demister???

My patrol has the same size alternator and the winch pulls around 400amps and in much longer events......Normally 3-4 mins X 4 - 5 times depending on the situation without a problem at all. Yes the battery is bigger than your average skyline but not by a great deal.

Not a Skyline but anyway.

Just get a slight dip in voltage until the alternater picks up the slack (yes my battery is old and should be replaced but im lazy)

Is your patrol a Diesel?

Not a Skyline but anyway.

No it's not a magical Skyline that somehow is different from any other vehicle on the road. No it's not a diesel. It's fuel injected and has a very similar ECU and the same sensors to an R32.

A lot of the race patrols (fuel injected turbo petrols) run 12HP winches without any trouble.

Anyway, i'm not saying this electric turbo will work but there are a lot of ppl on here with no experience on the matter that keep commenting on why it wont work electrically.

Running a winch with the engine idling is a bit different to trying to run a highly strung enging at WOT, when the electical power fall through the floor and causes a massive lean out and pops the motor.

Dont get me wrong I like this idea, would be great for drag cars trying to build boost agaisnt a transbrake, but I forsee the need for a 2nd electrcal system dedicated to running just the electric blower

I never run the winch while idling!! I'm always powering out of the bog hole or trying to get up a hill. I did give an example of the race guys running turbo charged Nissan motors and they are WOT.

Anyway it doesn't matter, time will tell.

No it's not a magical Skyline that somehow is different from any other vehicle on the road. No it's not a diesel. It's fuel injected and has a very similar ECU and the same sensors to an R32.

Lol I believe Zebra was correcting you when you said he had a Skyline, he wasn't implying that your Patrol is irrelevant to other cars.

I have to agree with Zebra for now. It's definitely an interesting idea and I like the time and effort that Stao is putting into it, but I don't see how it can be done in a bolt on package, it's just too much for the stock electrical set-up in a Skyline. That said, it may be possible to sort something out without sending the costs through the roof. Looking forward to more testing, always enjoyed these sorts of projects :D

I predict:

To run it, it requires 2x good batteries connected in parallel. The E turbo connects to the back up battery, not the one connected to the car. It also need to have a capacitor or I was thinking starter motor solenoids so it won't have shock effects when activated.

So the alternator charges both batteries when car's running. But if it's been used so often then the back up battery needs to be charged over night.

Also depending on how good the battery is. Like the Optima did 49 more runs then the "no name" battery.

Connecting the motor to the second battery in a parralel system is... Connecting it in parralel to both.

I have some faith in this setup, as long as the compressor is engeered against the motor (rpm/force) I think it will give a really good result.

Stao you should try to market this as a compound setup. Strap a small turbo to its outlet and have it recompress the compressed air. As long as you can drive the 1200hp compressor fast enough you will have a balistic outcome.

Connecting the motor to the second battery in a parralel system is... Connecting it in parralel to both.

I have some faith in this setup, as long as the compressor is engeered against the motor (rpm/force) I think it will give a really good result.

Stao you should try to market this as a compound setup. Strap a small turbo to its outlet and have it recompress the compressed air. As long as you can drive the 1200hp compressor fast enough you will have a balistic outcome.

With a ballistic price to match confused.gif Compound setup with an electric turbocharger sounds like a hell of a lot of custom work, not to mention the initial purchase price. also, would not having a turbo strapped to the outlet of this turbo just be a restriction in the intake? Why compress the same air twice, when the point of the E-turbo is to have it work like a supercharge while even a smaller turbo would not be spooling yet?

Agree with the second battery though, running them parallel will just mean it is running off both batteries, so it would still put huge load on the whole system. It would probably be better to stick with one battery and use a higher amp alternator. Or run two completely separate systems, two batteries, two alternators, etc. unsure what sort of load this would put on the engine though, not too mention weight gains and the high cost of having to implement such a system.

How is it complex?

The E turbo would be mounted in the passenger wheel well, the inlet to the E turbo will have the airfilter attached and the outlet will go to the inlet of the ACTUAL turbo.

The rest of the system will work as normal. An incomplicated compound turbo setup.

That would probably work incredibly well with a G2 setup, I believe the G2 will allow more exhaust flow than an SS? It will need twin wastegate.

You could also do a reverse compound setup that doesnt need to spin all the way to redline and aids only in spool. With a bearing cartridge and a clutch setup so that the suction of your primary turbo can keep it spinning up top.

Could you power it from an isolated electrical system, eg a battery that is also hooked up to the alternator but with some huge ass diodes so that the e-charger only draws from the one battery yet the alternator can charge both?

The issue is, do such large current rated diodes exist?

Could you power it from an isolated electrical system, eg a battery that is also hooked up to the alternator but with some huge ass diodes so that the e-charger only draws from the one battery yet the alternator can charge both?

The issue is, do such large current rated diodes exist?

Actually look at the systems 4WDs use for their dual battery systems with winches etc.

Actually look at the systems 4WDs use for their dual battery systems with winches etc.

They are just run in parallel to double the available current.

Dual battery systems are (generally used) for running accessories at night (when ignition is off) leaving one battery fully charged for starting the next morning. The smart systems will always charge the main battery first and then start charging the second battery when the correct voltage is reached. Could be made to work for this system.

My 33 has the battery in the boot and i'm able to run a massive battery which could easily cope with 300 amps. When i bought it, it had some piss weak battery that would struggle to start a motorbike!

the alternator can be reconnected internally to Delta. this bumps up output but chrging is decreased at low RPM.

i did this to my old 85 amp commodore alternator.

idle=12v 900rpm =13v, 1000rpm= 14v however it produced about 180amps.

if the system is set up with 2 batteries then they could be joined with a solenoid which could disengage when the motor are turned on. this will be better for the car as voltage wont be affected but these motors would lose some power as the 2nd battery voltage will drop fast as its not being charged, but can recharge when the solenoid kicks back in.

sounds interesting either way

So has anyone got their SS1PU fully tuned with dyno results yet?

I got mine in the mail yesterday, should be fitting it this week.

Mine pulled one run of 262rwkws on 17psi before coil pack failure. Drove home like a wrx. Car felt excellent before this happening. Getting some splitfires to finish off the tune.

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