Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Interesting to see that he could only make similar ~280rwkw as well whereas on your car and others it has made 300rwkw+. Wonder what is/was holding them back.

Note he was only running 18psi, I made 289rwkw@18psi on my hub dyno run, so quite similar. I believe Stao on his 320rwkw run was boosting to 23psi? In any case, I'd say you will need to run at least 20psi to crack the 300 mark on pump 98.

Edited by Hanaldo

Yup can see the improvement there. Also the hit of boost is slightly smoother so would give the tyres a bit more chance of holding on with the FNT.

Interesting to see that he could only make similar ~280rwkw as well whereas on your car and others it has made 300rwkw+. Wonder what is/was holding them back.

E85 & more boost, gogo

Note he was only running 18psi, I made 289rwkw@18psi on my hub dyno run, so quite similar. I believe Stao on his 320rwkw run was boosting to 23psi? In any case, I'd say you will need to run at least 20psi to crack the 300 mark on pump 98.

Nope, Stao made 305rwkw with the exact same turbo I had and was only running 18psi also.

E85 & more boost, gogo

See how my boost is dropping to 15.5psi. No matter what I did to raise the boost it would drop back to 15.5psi. So no point in increasing it for it then to drop off up top.

See how my boost is dropping to 15.5psi. No matter what I did to raise the boost it would drop back to 15.5psi. So no point in increasing it for it then to drop off up top.

More midrange punch

See how my boost is dropping to 15.5psi. No matter what I did to raise the boost it would drop back to 15.5psi. So no point in increasing it for it then to drop off up top.

There is an adjustment on the back of the turbo, you can adjust the creep amount with an allen key. Stao can give you advice to doing this.

I think the outcome is that you will boost higher up top than down low, but thats not really an issue if you just turn the boost down to suit

Nope, Stao made 305rwkw with the exact same turbo I had and was only running 18psi also.

Oh are you talking about the PU high flow? I was referring to the G3.

Got a graph of Stao's run? I can only find the one where he made 295@18psi with that turbo.

More midrange punch

Yeah true I just dont like the feeling of torque dropping off.

There is an adjustment on the back of the turbo, you can adjust the creep amount with an allen key. Stao can give you advice to doing this.

I think the outcome is that you will boost higher up top than down low, but thats not really an issue if you just turn the boost down to suit

Hmmm havent heard of that?? Any more details? We tried all the studs to reduce the size of the wastegate path to hopefully increase boost up top but couldnt do it. I think my intercooler could have been restrictive.

Oh are you talking about the PU high flow? I was referring to the G3.

Got a graph of Stao's run? I can only find the one where he made 295@18psi with that turbo.

Yeah talking about the PU high flow. Sorry your right Stao made 295rwkw on 18psi and 305rwkw on ~21psi.

there are two alen keys next to the flapper, did you try those?

it could be that you are getting so much volume through the mid range that you cap it out early and cant do anything about it.

either way your results are already good lol

Yeah true I just dont like the feeling of torque dropping off.

It wouldn't be dropping off any more than it is now, I guess the slope would be steeper, but you'd still have more power/torque under the curve.

The torque curve was pretty wide on mine and abes. It Might have some thing to do with his return flow cooler. Thats the one went burning hot after 1 run and took 3 mints to cool.

Is that correct? Hareys cooler got hot after just 1 run?

If so you should definitely change that mate, that would be holding you back a long way.

You talking about my old intercooler Stao? Didnt know it was that bad? Anyway I changed to an ARC return flow when I changed to the SS1 turbo. So unfortunately cant directly see the difference, except Trent said after 15+ dyno runs the temps were excellent.

Not Jeffs. The other car with the G3 has a made in china return flow that went burning hot after 1 run and took agers to cool. Buy the cross over ones like mine with a decent 600x300x75mm core. That gives the best performance.

Tao, I wanna come past tomorrow and talk to you about high flows / get you started on one for me, as I'm biting the bullet on getting one. When is a good time?

Tao, I wanna come past tomorrow and talk to you about high flows / get you started on one for me, as I'm biting the bullet on getting one. When is a good time?

Highflow? Get a SS1.5 PU. Be a man. Do da right fing.

After talking to Tao and testing his car, we've arrived at an SS1PU highflow as my choice. Stock looking compressor housing with modest power and hopefully only a little laggier than the standard turbo. Was very impressed with the Taomobile's power, the thing just wants to eat gutters above 4500rpm in any gear, but it's a bit laggy for my liking and daily driving. Can't remember what turbo he had fitted, but I'd rather more useful power and hopefully the SS1PU fits that bill. Will post results when I get installed and tuned :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...