Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finding a good tuner is hard, but finding one who actually wants to do it properly everytime is even harder.

This is more the issue, I found good tuners but they were lazy and rushed as they had too many customers half the time and I couldn't trust they had put 100% into it.

When they had no cars they did a top job.

This is more the issue, I found good tuners but they were lazy and rushed as they had too many customers half the time and I couldn't trust they had put 100% into it.

When they had no cars they did a top job.

Its all business mate, money comes first for most people..Its a sad world really.

This is more the issue, I found good tuners but they were lazy and rushed as they had too many customers half the time and I couldn't trust they had put 100% into it.

When they had no cars they did a top job.

My own car was tuned by one of the biggest names in this country, admittedly it wasnt in good shape at the time but the tuner more or less tuned it to whatever and sent him packing (previous owner being a mate of mine).

IMHO this was a half arsed effort and shouldnt be the case. The owner was somewhat naive and didnt realise there was any issues, he trusted the tuner to report back anything they found (as requested). The tuner believed the cat was blocked, thus they punched it out for him as a test but still had a bung result.

They finished the tune as is and gave it back to him saying it was fine. I found the middle muffler was blocked, once removed the car instantly picked up bucket loads of power but only made it to redline once. Knocked so hard it blew the motor.

Not the tuners fault the motor blew, I should have known better but didnt care. But the tuner definitely let the old owner down by giving up after the cat wasnt the real issue. Again, biggest name I know of (internationally known).

Its all business mate, money comes first for most people..Its a sad world really.

This is why I'm not going to a big name tuner, I want the best for my car, but don't have thousands of dollars to plunk down on the table and get their attention.

Its all business mate, money comes first for most people..Its a sad world really.

Luckily Ive found a tuner where tuning is his hobbie and he also has bucket loads of experience to go with it. He doesn't really tune for money (thought he does charge of course) but more because he enjoys it, lets you sit in the car and explains everything he is doing and won't finish until you are happy with the result.

If you just want to give him money and pick it up he isn't really interested in tuning as he doesn't get much of a kick out of generic jobs if you aren't actually interested in what is going on.

I find if you have a bit of a relationship with them, eg have been there many times in the past and they know you on a first name basis they are far more likely to give it 100% of their energy, even better if you are a friend of a friend as they feel more accountable that way.

Agree about tuners, can't blame them a lot of the time when they have to compete with each other for bottom dollar customers...and lets face it...there are plenty of tight asses out there who will go with the cheapest option because they spent x on their turbo setup and didn't budget for a quality tune. It's not a mechanical repair where you can say it will cost x dollars, then when it's repaired it's repaired and it either works or it doesn't. Tuning is a quality/time equation, so obviously the more time they want to devote to it, the more they can perfect the tune. They are a business like any other so find an honest one and tell them you're willing to pay for the extra time put into making it right.

Hey guys where abouts is the SS1PU listed on the website?

I have been trying to find its prices but cant seem to find it.

Also does it bolt straight back onto an R33 RB25 or will I have to have anything customer made?

What type of things have to be customer made

Thanks :thumbsup:

One thing you need to do regardless of the turbo is a solid intake pipe, preferably with BOV and cam cover inlets. You can get away without it but your results will not be optimal and it is not recommended.

Edited by Rolls

Hope so.. it's going in a 32 too ;).

http://digi-hardware.com/atr43.html

I'm guessing I want a g4 in a .82 housing.

Profile G4 T3 .82 / 1.0: 600HP $1250

No way...too laggy for the power you want. Keep in mind the factory turbo is good for up to / around 220ish, if it were possible to reliably run that on E85 you would probably have your power goal. I'd go for a highflow that mimicks the factory turbo in terms of response, but with stronger internals. Or the G1 profile.

Hope so.. it's going in a 32 too ;).

http://digi-hardware.com/atr43.html

I'm guessing I want a g4 in a .82 housing.

Profile G4 T3 .82 / 1.0: 600HP $1250

LOLZ how did you come up with that turbo?? That turbo would have full boost a fair bit over 5000rpm. Why not run a GT45 turbo on 0.2psi...

As birds said, you want something much much smaller. Either a highflow or an SS1.5PU would be my choices.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...