Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The logic & experiences of the split dump pipe being a restriction makes sense to me explained in that way. Thanks GTSTScott, Rolls and Birds for the explanation.

In any case buying one of these is not a hugely expensive gamble for me, so I will just have to wait a while, get one & sell the current one, and see how it goes.

Because retuning is fairly expensive though, I may want to make more changes than just the dump pipe to make more sure of getting more power. Finding out the dump didn't work & that it is indeed the FMIC after another retune would be a bit painful.

Another point to note; when I was speaking with Tao, and he asked what intercooler I have, he was of the opinion that even having a FMIC running the normal path (not turnflow), the only coolers he had seen consistently perform were Plazmaman ones and PWR (which he has on the test car). I asked about Blitz turnflows and he does not think these are reliable either, and definitely not anything JJR.

The problem with the JJR return flow and short vertical run down cores, is not the ability to flow, its the ability to loose heat. They pull one good run then heat soaks every run after, so your car would pin, pin, and more pinning after each run. Don't remove timing, give it 20 mints cooling period between runs and its knock free. I've already tried that and mentioned it in earlier pages.

Obviously when running E85 with a cooler like that, the fuel is not as sensitive to heat, so as long as it can flow it will make power.

I believe Jeff wrote a full page long about testing of a blitz return flow cooler that caused boost drop issues, if you haven't seen it please refer to index page for the thread.

In conclusion don't use return flow coolers or crappy cores for 300rwkws application. Spend some cash and get a decent plazaman cooler (abe's car G3 making 290rwkws pump and 358rwkws E85) or a PWR cooler (test car). The importance is in the quality of labor work, and materials its made from.

Split dump will do no good. It causes boost creep and flow restrictions specially used on the G3. There has been few pages of discussions to read at, they can be located through the index page.

Plus there is no magic in the engine. Every single part in its build is listed in previous pages.

My return flow is performing so far. I also have cooler piping from turbo is 2inch then near the cooler it opens to 3inch. Then from the cooler it drops from 3inch to 2.5inch to the throttle body.

This car goes against the norm

yeah mine is only 60mm all the way to the cooler too, then 2.5 to intake..not return flow though..

Smaller piping helps keep up velocity up which is good for response..thats my theory anyway..;)

probably not great for big power though

Silicon will be alright for a 250-260kw setup?

yes, with abuse it may give way over time but should be fine for ages..

Hey Guys

So this is what I mean by the welding its right near the sensor

092yz.jpg

Ah mine has a ridge about half an inch behind the flange. You have the same ridge but mine seems to have separated and is now raised. I'll try get a photo up later

As long as there are no kinks/abnormal stresses on the joiners, and the surfaces being joined together are free of contaminants, I'm absolutely positive there is no way you'll run a higher boost pressure than they can handle. Quote me on that.

Also 150rwkw @30psi is more likely to blow joiners apart than 700rwkw @15psi.

Oh also, I'm fairly sure that my boost source is plumbed much further than 30cm from the turbo...it's on the cold side of the intercooler piping, as it goes back over top of the turbo.

I wouldnt say dont use return flow coolers

i have a ARC return flow on my 33 with my gt3076 yet to be tuned

but my best mate has one on his r33 and makes 307rwkw on 18psi internal wastegate with a ARC and doesnt see any pressure drop or rises in intake temp

i guess its all todo with the quality of the cooler

i would always prefer a more expensive cooler to retain the LEGAL well the stock HOLE route rather then cutting a hole

Oh also, I'm fairly sure that my boost source is plumbed much further than 30cm from the turbo...it's on the cold side of the intercooler piping, as it goes back over top of the turbo.

Is there a certain way about doing it?

Hot side or cold side of the intercooler

When you say back over the turbo Troy do you mean just before the throttle body?

i would always prefer a more expensive cooler to retain the LEGAL well the stock HOLE route rather then cutting a hole

nothing wrong with cutting a hole if it is done in the right place.

In conclusion don't use return flow coolers or crappy cores for 300rwkws application. Spend some cash and get a decent plazaman cooler (abe's car G3 making 290rwkws pump and 358rwkws E85) or a PWR cooler (test car). The importance is in the quality of labor work, and materials its made from.

not entirely true, NYTSKY's R33 GTST made 427rwkw with a china spec 76mm front mount intercooler

Is there a certain way about doing it?

Hot side or cold side of the intercooler

When you say back over the turbo Troy do you mean just before the throttle body?

Not quite that far, more around where the cold side piping goes back over the pod filter. Either way,like 40cm before the throttle body

In Melbourne Vic roads new law in there book says no holes to be cut in the body if it's not from factory, can't even cut out a parcel shelf to fit 6x9 speakers

In that case you could very easily go to a mech engineer and get them to sign off on it if it is a non structural part of the vehicle. There is ZERO issue with cutting into non structural parts.

Makes no sense to me.

I wouldnt say dont use return flow coolers

i have a ARC return flow on my 33 with my gt3076 yet to be tuned

but my best mate has one on his r33 and makes 307rwkw on 18psi internal wastegate with a ARC and doesnt see any pressure drop or rises in intake temp

i guess its all todo with the quality of the cooler

i would always prefer a more expensive cooler to retain the LEGAL well the stock HOLE route rather then cutting a hole

Its good to be consistent in what we talk about dude.. Try to remember an ARC cooler goes for 1-2000 dollars new, its not exactly apples and apples when you think of it that way.

Long story short, ARC are a fu*king good cooler.

A good example of this is the 3071 with a 0.63 rear that made 307rwkw on a neo r34 with poncams, made 290 with stock cams, only ~18psi as well, was tuned by one of the guys at nistune themselves and on the morpowa dyno here in Adelaide, reputable tuner and not known to be high reading dyno by any stretch. The dyno picture is in "matts r34" thread on the nistune forums if anyone wants to check it.

Guy had all of the most expensive jap brand name (overkill) parts as far as intake, intercooler, exhaust, dump etc goes, the engine was also extremely healthy (neo as well). I think this really shows the merit in good quality parts, no leaks etc as this result is normally what is seen on a gt3076 with a 0.82 rear.

In regards to where to get your boost reference signal from..

The way I like to do it is for the actuator, shortest possible path, as close to turbo exit as possible.

I then get the boost reference for the EBC control unit from the plenum.

In regards to where to get your boost reference signal from..

The way I like to do it is for the actuator, shortest possible path, as close to turbo exit as possible.

I then get the boost reference for the EBC control unit from the plenum.

This is how my stock turbo was setup but now going to have to use a silicone joiner

So I will do just after the joined but before the intercooler

Right now my EBC gets reference from the stock gauge line

Just after the elbow is fine, you just want the actuator reference signal as short as possible (i.e. not on other side of the cooler) to prevent any overboosting or lazy signal issues.

My new setup will have a peak recall boost gauge plumbed in with the actuator reference signal (so I have pre cooler readout) and a normal boost gauge + EBC signal (EBC has peak recall) at the plenum. This will then show me any pressure losses and help troubleshoot issues :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...