Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a note. The excedy heavy duty can't hold 200kw.

Holding over 300kw (flywheel, where the rating is measured) without a problem for me. Don't spread misinformation.

Agree the Xtreme Motorsport clutches have also worked very well for me.

A car Ive done previously had the Xtreme button plate wear a little thin so I popped a regular exedy organic plate in it and its been running forevermore another 18 months of abuse later.

Here is a 34 i just finished tuning. Did a run before poncams and then tuned it after poncams.

Is running G3 older spec. This is with profec B spec 2 set to 0 but helping with holding top end (basically gate pressure)

Tao has sent a 14psi actuator that we will fit so can tune a low boost.

I tried more boost with this setup but kept nosing over and for the extra amount of boost there wasnt enough gain.

It saw 281kw with a bit more midrange on 21psi.

Tried advancing and retarding exhaust gear with no gain. So left at 0.

Also tried dropping the exhaust which automatically raised the boost to 20psi and made 281kw

70262b6e.jpg

Thats correct coupe.

The light blue run was when the dyno was playing up but it was reading the dyno correctly just not controlling the steady state.

I have tuned this car in the other (mainline) dyno and it made 232kw but has a different cat since then

Aparently I was lying before so here is the full details. I've got an rs4s running an excedy hd, stock turbo on 10/11psi it slipped a little, installed hypergear tuned to 220kw, slipped a bit more. Rebuilt engine and got clutch checked, nothing physically wrong with it or the flywheel, just doesn't hold.

Thats correct coupe.

The light blue run was when the dyno was playing up but it was reading the dyno correctly just not controlling the steady state.

I have tuned this car in the other (mainline) dyno and it made 232kw but has a different cat since then

thats does it I want cams now...

Oh wow. Am I reading the graph correctly in that the run with poncams made 53kw more top-end (ignoring the mid-range gain as well because I can't see that axis) with less boost? If that's the case then I may start thinking about poncams more seriously as well lol. What are the specs on those cams, are they Type-B's, ie. 260's???

I also agree it looks like a restriction somewhere though, what's going on with the shape of the curve Jez, was that caused by the exhaust?

Lol very true, between boost bleeding off, square wheels and my brake pedal causing earthquakes in my car. I'm having lots of fun chasing problems.

Aparently I was lying before so here is the full details. I've got an rs4s running an excedy hd, stock turbo on 10/11psi it slipped a little, installed hypergear tuned to 220kw, slipped a bit more. Rebuilt engine and got clutch checked, nothing physically wrong with it or the flywheel, just doesn't hold.

You were lying before, so how can I trust what you're saying now? :P

Seriously though, there are a lot of factors to clutches not holding up in specific applications. Your pressure plate may be worn which can be visually impossible to tell and the lack of clamping pressure, no matter how good your friction plate is, will mean slippage.

Oh wow. Am I reading the graph correctly in that the run with poncams made 53kw more top-end (ignoring the mid-range gain as well because I can't see that axis) with less boost? If that's the case then I may start thinking about poncams more seriously as well lol. What are the specs on those cams, are they Type-B's, ie. 260's???

I also agree it looks like a restriction somewhere though, what's going on with the shape of the curve Jez, was that caused by the exhaust?

no u dont, what you (me also) need to do is get VCT running so we can get a fatter mid range! lol

no u dont, what you (me also) need to do is get VCT running so we can get a fatter mid range! lol

Yeh but I'm already onto that and it hasn't costed me any money yet, that's no fun! :P

By the way, hoping to have results for my latest setup around the middle to end of this month. Just need to get my throttle cable issue sorted and then I'll book it in for a tune. VCT should now be working, so fingers crossed I've got it all right this time haha.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...