Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes i noticed the oil once i put the pic up but no oil anywhere else, i will check it tommorow. Doesnt seem consistent with oil, looks like it may be a drip or something

There is absolutely no more area that could be taken out. its been CNC mill out according to factory gasket.

gasketon.jpg

The corners of where the gaskets goes over has been tapered out and rounded off.

in.jpg

Its been give out as much clearance as it possibly can be inside the Nissan 6 bolt fange.

side.jpg

The adapter flange is pretty free flow, made no differences on dyno.

The oil must've been dropped on as every where else are completely dry unless its been sitting upright for some time.

Made pretty much no differences for the power level I've run it at. All new ones made this year are fitted with the cut out flange. How ever you are welcome to send back the adaptor to get it machined out to the current spec at no cost. Put it back on the dyno and see if that makes any differences.

Looks like you had fun getting it off, is that 3 snapped bolts still stuck in there?

How old is that version of the g3? I wonder if they are all like that?

I didnt take it off. Mate took it off his own car. Took him ages. It was funny watching him actually. I know he is gonna read this Hahaha.

Tao do ur own turbo's have this lip? Do u Think it will be a restriction?

It was heaps of fun , the snapped bolts are the easy ones , the pain in the ass one was the one that didn't snap.

I believe oil was a result of a dip from feed line when fighting to pull out of the bay.

I'm interested for some data supporting the effects from the Type B .82 rear housing working with a existing Type A .82 setup on stock manifold. My expectation would be no lose in top end power with 400RPMs gain in response, totally different drivability. This apply to All ATR43/PU high flow's .82 Rear housing including Type A FNT and older None FNT versions.

^^^

Any one whom's interested in above turbo for a Bolton setup on factory exhaust manifold is recommended to have it send in for the Type B turbine housing conversion. Unless used with an proper aftermarket exhaust manifold.

Yes I've tried that in the exact same print for the SS1PU. It became super responsive but only made 247rwkws.

That method of FNT arrangement is made to trade off top end power for response. Its fine for the Type A G3 as the power level its capable is beyond what factory exhaust manifold can flow internally gated.

Also should go back for few more dyno runs to see if the new clutch made a difference in performance. Generally there will be a difference if its is noticeable on road.

Edit: stao posted the answer

Stao, have you sold any of the new g2.5's you recently posted up results for?

I'm interested to see results on a stock exhaust manifold

Edited by Mitcho_7

Not yet. Its still on my car. The maximum it can do on stock manifold will be around the 280rwkws mark. Unless E85 which can push it further.

You seem to have become a hater of the stock manifold in recent weeks Stao. At what point do you think it becomes a hindrance and are you now recommending customers to change it?

280rwkws internally gated is about ideal. There is a noticeable difference after going to the Brea manifold. I think Trent did mention a difference between 2~3 degrees of timing in certain areas. which stock manifold would heat soak, pin with power band nosing down, while aftermarket kept on calming. making a big 330rwkws bolton turbo was a mistake.

Hoping to get that much in couple weeks from my SS2 but I've opened the manifold up a fair bit plus heaps of head work and cams. Will change manifold later if I have to but for now just want it back together

E85 will solve most of the problems. How ever its not very available at this stage.

I'm also updating the SS2's profile for better, more consistent power delivery and possibly even better response. Will have results in roughly 2 weeks time or when Trent's dyno is repaired.

*Should* have a result with my new setup tomorrow. Car is fixed and running perfectly now, will hit the dyno tomorrow. So providing nothing else goes wrong, will finally have a result.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...