Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got 280kw at 16psi at 6000rpm. I had no cat. If im correct u had a cat in ur exhaust system?.....Get rid of the cat and I can almost guarantee you will see around 20rwkw gain and response gain as there is less back pressure on exhaust wheel.

Edited by adam999111

I've got something like this

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18066&cat=&page=1

Will order a mid muffler prob tomorrow or fri and see if I can fix it all up before I go to Japan then make appointment for when I get back for another run. Just wish it wasn't 2 hrs to tuner. Driving through the city with a twin plate was a nightmare.

How far back was your dyno sheet Adam?

Edited by t_revz

I got 280kw at 16psi at 6000rpm. I had no cat. If im correct u had a cat in ur exhaust system?.....Get rid of the cat and I can almost guarantee you will see around 20rwkw gain and response gain as there is less back pressure on exhaust wheel.

Based on what exactly? There is barely 5hp difference between my car with the exhaust on vs off...

I've got something like this

http://justjap.com/s...066&cat=&page=1

Will order a mid muffler prob tomorrow or fri and see if I can fix it all up before I go to Japan then make appointment for when I get back for another run. Just wish it wasn't 2 hrs to tuner. Driving through the city with a twin plate was a nightmare.

How far back was your dyno sheet Adam?

My dyno sheet is on page 292. that power and psi i stated was actually at 6200ish rather than 6000, mind you its did make just over 290 before some timing was backed off.

Based on what exactly? There is barely 5hp difference between my car with the exhaust on vs off...

Based on the laws off physics.. In an Ideal world nothing after the dump on the turbo, will obtain the best results performance wise. any restriction in the exhaust is going to result in power loss, thats inarguable, its just when the gains don't become significant enough to worry about. Please dont get hung up on numbers, it might not be exactly 20kw... As with your exhuast, it must be a good free flowing one

Edited by adam999111

^^^

On the same time you are also running an external gate. I've also made 290rwkws on 19psi peek at 6200rpms at 17psi on the same turbo externally gated off the turbine housing. It some appears the external gate has greater gain used on stock exhaust manifold.

I've got something like this

http://justjap.com/s...066&cat=&page=1

Will order a mid muffler prob tomorrow or fri and see if I can fix it all up before I go to Japan then make appointment for when I get back for another run. Just wish it wasn't 2 hrs to tuner. Driving through the city with a twin plate was a nightmare.

How far back was your dyno sheet Adam?

that's quite a restrictive cat once it warms up

Only when it's warm? ^^^

when the core heats up, becomes an exhaust restriction, this easily can be done with a few squirts on throttle on full song.

yeh sorry i keep forgetting i have ext gate and t_revz is internal, but he will still see gains non the less without at cat.

Will also see some decent fines from the EPA if caught :)

Soon enough it will be free flowing. Just have to find a suitable muffler to compensate noise and bring it down quite a bit

I might be biased here, but HKS Super dragger, it's dead quiet man. Seriously not much louder than a stock VL 3.0..

I've used Apexi N1, HKS Hi Power, DRIFT, St Mays all on RBs, and the HKS Super Dragger has been the most quiet one.

when the core heats up, becomes an exhaust restriction, this easily can be done with a few squirts on throttle on full song.

Why would it only be a restriction when it's hot? The substrate doesn't change, it just gets hot...

Will also see some decent fines from the EPA if caught :)

Eh, we're in WA ;)

Yeah that's a good point. Easy to check too. I can fully understand not making as much as ex gate versions up top but should be close as I've got extensive head work and cams etc but I would think midrange should be near identical. But looking at boost I have 13psi at 3700 while Stao's latest was at 21 so no wonder it's 110hp lower.

Going to check actuator preload next day off and see if that's ok too. Try to double check VCT ASAP. Come to think of it I haven't heard the solenoid clicking like it used to. Vct obviously affects boost curve in a big way?

Vct is practically make or break for an RB25 on vct based cams.

if that's not working deduct something like 1000rpm for boost threshold. its silly.

Well it was done but cos I dropped the car off before Sean got there and we didn't chat he set boost to 18psi max and very safe. Only made 340hp but he told me to ignore the number as he can never reproduce Hp numbers that hypergear customers expect. So I drove home and gave it a couple squirts and it feels good. Maybe it was similar power but just low reading dyno...until I compared my result to previous results and it seems lazy on boost. Might need more preload. So thinking of taking it back after doing the exhaust and Sean said we can try put 21+ down its throat

Any other thoughts? Mine is red

Power

photo_zpsfe9a9fae.jpg

Boost

photo_zps4956dc8c.jpg

That's a little disappointing...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...