Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Teaser video of my car running again:

Mate was driving and was too nervous to drive it hard, so when I can drive again I'll get some better footage.

Can't watch the video brah

That's an impressive result, Stao. Really holds on up top now. Defo worth the effort of dual actuators IMO.

It made barely any difference Aaron, the dyno result was from two different AR rear housings if I read it right.

Stao, were they 20psi actuators?

It made barely any difference Aaron, the dyno result was from two different AR rear housings if I read it right.

Stao, were they 20psi actuators?

We are talking about 1.2psi gain, not a mojor but there is a difference, notice the shape of the curve too. The 20psi actuator still had 3psi drop. this sheet was taken when using the same turbine housing

98boost.jpg

compare to:

boost.jpg

The SS1PU probably had the most boost drop internally gated, this actuator setup should work well with that.

Do you bore out the wastegate hole Stao?

Maybe you could look at the EFR turbos and borrow some ideas from them to come up with a better rear housing design?

The SS1PU due to the higher pressure in the exhaust manifold, too much pressure here would cause heat issues though, you need an exhaust temp sensor in the manifold imo Stao.

Have you incorperated the longer actuator arm for more leverage also?

It made barely any difference Aaron, the dyno result was from two different AR rear housings if I read it right.

Stao, were they 20psi actuators?

Ahh crap, I missed that the bottom graph was the two different rears.

Ahh crap, I missed that the bottom graph was the two different rears.

Please refer to post 6125. They are identical turbochargers, both with .82 type B rear housings just different actuator setup.

Talk about great service!

I ordered my turbo on Monday, it was built and is already in the post. Stao has still been answering my queries and testing products in between, now that's what I call great service :)

Have you incorperated the longer actuator arm for more leverage also?

Different arm to mine but looks to be similar length so should have same leverage

Stao mine has the longer arm and I lose 2psi up top. Is it worth loosening the screws and extending it out to the edge of have you tried that and made little difference?

Edited by t_revz

Speaking of restrictions...both my cams look a couple degrees retarded. Might have to grab an adjustable gear for exhaust cam. Obviously need to put a dial gauge on and check for sure but if I see cheap cam gears in Japan next week ill be all over em

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...