Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Teaser video of my car running again:

Mate was driving and was too nervous to drive it hard, so when I can drive again I'll get some better footage.

Can't watch the video brah

That's an impressive result, Stao. Really holds on up top now. Defo worth the effort of dual actuators IMO.

It made barely any difference Aaron, the dyno result was from two different AR rear housings if I read it right.

Stao, were they 20psi actuators?

It made barely any difference Aaron, the dyno result was from two different AR rear housings if I read it right.

Stao, were they 20psi actuators?

We are talking about 1.2psi gain, not a mojor but there is a difference, notice the shape of the curve too. The 20psi actuator still had 3psi drop. this sheet was taken when using the same turbine housing

98boost.jpg

compare to:

boost.jpg

The SS1PU probably had the most boost drop internally gated, this actuator setup should work well with that.

Do you bore out the wastegate hole Stao?

Maybe you could look at the EFR turbos and borrow some ideas from them to come up with a better rear housing design?

The SS1PU due to the higher pressure in the exhaust manifold, too much pressure here would cause heat issues though, you need an exhaust temp sensor in the manifold imo Stao.

Have you incorperated the longer actuator arm for more leverage also?

It made barely any difference Aaron, the dyno result was from two different AR rear housings if I read it right.

Stao, were they 20psi actuators?

Ahh crap, I missed that the bottom graph was the two different rears.

Ahh crap, I missed that the bottom graph was the two different rears.

Please refer to post 6125. They are identical turbochargers, both with .82 type B rear housings just different actuator setup.

Talk about great service!

I ordered my turbo on Monday, it was built and is already in the post. Stao has still been answering my queries and testing products in between, now that's what I call great service :)

Have you incorperated the longer actuator arm for more leverage also?

Different arm to mine but looks to be similar length so should have same leverage

Stao mine has the longer arm and I lose 2psi up top. Is it worth loosening the screws and extending it out to the edge of have you tried that and made little difference?

Edited by t_revz

Speaking of restrictions...both my cams look a couple degrees retarded. Might have to grab an adjustable gear for exhaust cam. Obviously need to put a dial gauge on and check for sure but if I see cheap cam gears in Japan next week ill be all over em

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...