Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

IMAG1105.jpg

IMAG1107.jpg

Its been a while since this turbocharger has been developed is any one with a SR20det interested of trailing? The evaluation price on it is $750, and I will refund $100 once receiving your dyno reading so it will cost only $650. I would prefer a SR20det with injectors, pon cams other supporting mods in Melbourne. PM if interested

I want a sexy comp cover like that :P

Looks great Stao

BTW, the oil feed fitting that came with my turbo doesnt appear to fit in the block? its to small :S

Cheers. The one on the block is a M12x1.25 fitting and the one on turbo is M10x1.25. The straight hose tail goes to the block and the 90 degree end goes to the turbo. are both fittings you've got exactly the same?

Quick questions thou, a friend of mine is interest of introducing a stick on paint service, its a plastic alike material that sticks on cars body that you can peal them. Any one had their car stick on panted here?

Also I've got my Billet T67 CHRA machined and assembled today. will be doing comp and turbine housing tomorrow and there will be a little bit of a challenge as the the back plate adapting those two don't exist. Garrett patterned .70 housing uses pressure clamps while Greddy uses a large C clip. So it will has to be either C clipped and bolted or double clipped.

chra.jpg

Yeah stao I think I got 2 fittings the same, one for the block looks about m8 or so thread to a -4 (?) Size fitting on the other side. Not a big deal if I know sizes

Quick questions thou, a friend of mine is interest of introducing a stick on paint service, its a plastic alike material that sticks on cars body that you can peal them. Any one had their car stick on panted here?

Your referring to vinyl wrap. It's quite common here in Sydney, lots of high end cars like C63, R35 etc are running around in Matte Black.

Looks pretty good. How much does your friend charge?

Quick questions thou, a friend of mine is interest of introducing a stick on paint service, its a plastic alike material that sticks on cars body that you can peal them. Any one had their car stick on panted here?

Plasti Dip

I looked into getting mine done a few months back.

In the states they use it a lot because its really cheap to buy a can is like $7

But to get it here once all the shipping is paid etc it turns out more like $30 a can.

I couldnt see him making any money if he is charging prices like that.

A company here already sells the stuff over priced IMO

Is that td05 or td06 billet compressor ?

That is a 25G compressor wheel and a .70 comp housing, turbine is SL2 TD06

Yes vinyl wrap is the one. I'm getting some photos send over today will post up. They comes in mat black, white, grey, red, clear and other colours. Costing wise at moment be looking at $850 for the whole car, will take about a full week to complete.

Customer's resulted based on a PU high flow, Rb25det VCT not enabled on pump 98 and E85

20121212_142255.jpg

Stao out of curiosity what are the twin trust/greddy T517z 10cm turbos for rb26 gtr rated at (hp) ?

I would say about 450HP each turbo, in a twin setup with all supporting mods the 2nd turbo usually add in 70% of its full efficiency, how ever there are too many variances.

Further update on the T67. Finally got the back plate made and comp housing profiled. came up pretty nice:

backplate.jpg

IMAG1240.jpg

t67comp.jpg

turbine.jpg

Dame Trent's not coming back till Mid Jan. Got so many drawings made before xmas comes

IMAG1105.jpg

IMAG1107.jpg

Its been a while since this turbocharger has been developed is any one with a SR20det interested of trailing? The evaluation price on it is $750, and I will refund $100 once receiving your dyno reading so it will cost only $650. I would prefer a SR20det with injectors, pon cams other supporting mods in Melbourne. PM if interested

Is this turbo a td05 or td06 and what is expected rwkw and it's billet wheeled right

I current have a kando td05 non billet and making 264rwkw e85 24psi dropping to 21 psi depends if it will make much more

Is this turbo a td05 or td06 and what is expected rwkw and it's billet wheeled right

I current have a kando td05 non billet and making 264rwkw e85 24psi dropping to 21 psi depends if it will make much more

That is very little power for alot of boost with E85.

I've made 2x versions of T518 turbos.

the one on photo is a TD05 with 18G billet comp wheel, I think it will probably do a maximum of 250rwkws on pump 98 with cams far as the turbine wheel and housing concern. I only made one, it was originally for GTScotT's SR20det but he's got a better turbo on it at this stage.

The other one was made using TD06SL2 turbine with 20G billet comp wheel since the 10CM external gated version was successful.

Hey Stao I installed my ATR43G3 last night. Had to modify the actuator bracket to make it fit but all ended up working. Just wondering what pressure the actuator is set to open at because currently I am only getting 11psi at full noise, all by about 4300rpm. Granted it hasn't been tuned yet, just wondering if this is normal or not.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
    • I've got MCA Blues on my V36 Skyline, and while I've managed to sort out issues with scrubbing/bottoming out by raising it a smidge and increasing the damping hardness, the rear end still sounds *super* noisy when driving on anything other than the flattest surface imaginable. It sounds like a small party of flamingos are just chatting away in the back, which makes me think there are several link points in the suspension contributing to the noise. Am I hearing dried out/worn bushings? None of it sounds like metal-on-metal, it sounds more like hard rubber squeaking on metal. It's been suggested that a bit of silicon spray on each bushing might quiet them down, but I'm not sure what material the current bushings are made of (probably factory, I imagine) and whether silicon spray will degrade that material.
    • The obvious answer here is get a ND2/3 RF with the Targa top. The red is nicer, too!
×
×
  • Create New...