Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Stao can you make a VNT housing for the SS1PU? SR20 bolt on spec?

Internal or external gate? I will be happy to retune before I start tracking the car and can test it fully.

I'm building one now for the R33. Probably be ready by the end of next week then just have to wait for Trent to come back from UK again for tuning. But if that works out well then the same concept can be used in all T2x turbine housings.

Been driving the VNT SS3 every day for almost weeks now. Unlike other turbos at certain rev ranges stepping the paddle on the floor result in a blank spot. The SS3 VNT has no blank spots, G force comes in straight way with a touch of acceleration.

It doesn't have a "hard forced in seat pull" feel after 4500rpms like most turbos do in this range, it has a very smooth acceleration sensation, that pulls harder and harder from the start revving towards limiter. Also because the smoothness in acceleration there isn't a sudden peak of torque, which helped those tyres to grip a lot better. It makes a very fast car and should definitely pull some serious lap times on tracks.

Might get Sxxricho into sponsor ship with this turbocharger, Pretty sure he will break his previous records with it.

Been driving the VNT SS3 every day for almost weeks now. Unlike other turbos at certain rev ranges stepping the paddle on the floor result in a blank spot. The SS3 VNT has no blank spots, G force comes in straight way with a touch of acceleration.

It doesn't have a "hard forced in seat pull" feel after 4500rpms like most turbos do in this range, it has a very smooth acceleration sensation, that pulls harder and harder from the start revving towards limiter. Also because the smoothness in acceleration there isn't a sudden peak of torque, which helped those tyres to grip a lot better. It makes a very fast car and should definitely pull some serious lap times on tracks.

Might get Sxxricho into sponsor ship with this turbocharger, Pretty sure he will break his previous records with it.

:3some:

High-mount, ex gate here I come.

Dude if this thing can survive Richo's punishment then a VNT can totally handle pootling around town with me as a road car...  :)

Agreed largely, though carbon buildup over time is one of the big issues VNT systems often have

Do you think carbon build up would be as much of a problem on E-Flex though Lithium? It seems to me now that it's not as much of an issue for my copper plugs, the same should be true for the entire system post-combustion. Have seen a few internet threads of engine tear downs (not failure related) of e85-fed cars which seemed remarkably "clean" compared to a petrol counterpart.

Probably not. At the end of the day the best way of knowing is Stao getting some of these things on cars and seeing how they perform in general, and over time - if they are an overall success then a win for everyone :)

There won't be any carbon build up there. Original VNT won't work in a high performance application, It is not a traditional VNT system, but based on its principle and has the same effects. I'm not worried about the reliability of this housing at all. But more interested in how to have them produced with better affordability. The aim to to retail them at around $1500.

Its interesting of how much water content E85 has. My exhaust manifold and turbine housing is always filled up with water when I remove them.

Photo of the high flowed Evo 10 turbocharger using reversed SLSS2 CHRA.

comp.jpg

turbine.jpg

Yep, its because your car sits around a lot and the remnants of the fuel soak up moisture.


I am doubtful that the fuel itself is leaving water in the exhaust post burn, but its probably an indicator that the fuel system has the potential to suck up water. Danger danger!

Yep, its because your car sits around a lot and the remnants of the fuel soak up moisture.

I am doubtful that the fuel itself is leaving water in the exhaust post burn, but its probably an indicator that the fuel system has the potential to suck up water. Danger danger!

My screamer etc is crusty and rusty and you can see water droplets in it (When plumbed back it drips from the join)

Nothing major and certainly nothing wrong with the fuel system ;)

No. No. The high water content in the exhaust is from fuel that burnt to produce water. There will be MUCH MUCH more water from that origin than there would be from absorbed water. The water vapour that sits in there when you shut it down is what is condensing out. The same thing happens with normal petrol, it's just that there is quite a lot more of it in the exhaust products of ethanol.

As I said in post above, but with actual numbers this time, the ratio of H2O to CO2 in petrol exhaust is 1.125:1. In ethanol exhaust that ratio increases to 1.5:1. It's a big jump. Makes the flue gas very "wet".

--edit-- corrected CO to CO2.

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Like 2

No. No. The high water content in the exhaust is from fuel that burnt to produce water. There will be MUCH MUCH more water from that origin than there would be from absorbed water. The water vapour that sits in there when you shut it down is what is condensing out. The same thing happens with normal petrol, it's just that there is quite a lot more of it in the exhaust products of ethanol.

As I said in post above. but with actual numbers this time, the ratio of H2O to CO in petrol exhaust is 1.125:1. In ethanol exhaust that ratio increases to 1.5:1. It's a big jump. Makes the flue gas very "wet".

:3some:

You want to see the steam coming out my car's exhaust on these cold 2 degree mornings, it looks like a steam train, completely blocking my vision out the back window. I should get a pic for the lulz.

Stao, I would like you to keep one of those reverse rotation Evo wheels aside for me, do you want me to pay a deposit or something? I need to find an evo 8mr rear housing I think, as my standard evo 7 rear isn't the 10cm version as far as I know. Perhaps it could still be a good thing? Anyone know what the ar of the 7's is?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...