Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Remember mine is peaking at 25psi so it usually takes alil longer the higher the boost if you want to compare to yours at 20psi it gets there by 3600rpm

Only bad thing about it is it noses off abit after 6000rpm but might be sorted now due to the 4psi drop before now I got a 20psi actuator which seemed to fix it

Ah yeah true.

I'm keen for another visit to the dyno. Need to get my bugs fixed and I hope he's willing to squeeze 10/10s out of it now :(

So I will have to look at preloading my wastegate.

Can you purchase better aftermarket actuators?

From what I remember it was pinging at the 250 mark so was backed off slightly. Would it have the same limitation if I was to get it to hold the 20psi throughout the rev range?

So I will have to look at preloading my wastegate.

Can you purchase better aftermarket actuators?

From what I remember it was pinging at the 250 mark so was backed off slightly. Would it have the same limitation if I was to get it to hold the 20psi throughout the rev range?

Depends on WHY it was pinging, but more than likely yes - if anything worse.

IMG_1687.jpg
image hosting 30 mb

Got my car tuned today. It's running an atr43g2.5 and made 250rwkw with boost hitting 21psi and coming down to 16psi.

The tuner was saying that if they tried to add in more boost they had to keep pulling timing so unfortunately this is how they had to tune it. Any ideas what may be going on Stao?

Was this on a high flowed unit? Its about the right amount of power for a g2 compressor.

It's a g2.5 type B also. It was originally a g2 I think but as blown so when I sent it to you you did the upgrades as well as rebuilding.

I'm happy with the power just wasn't sure why it seemed to need less boost at higher revs cause otherwise it would just ping. Comparing my graph to the one you have on your site:

http://www.hypergearturbos.com/images/dynosheets/atr43/atr43g3/60comp110512E85/power.jpg

Mine is very similar to the 98 power curve (green curve, yellow is e85) up until my boost starts dropping off. Would have been nice to wind a bit more in.

I was just thinking could my intake be the issue? I have a stock airbox with 3inch piping to the turbo. Was hoping to keep the car looking stock but if it's causing this issue i'd be happy to make a pod filter enclosure

It's a g2.5 type B also. It was originally a g2 I think but as blown so when I sent it to you you did the upgrades as well as rebuilding.

I'm happy with the power just wasn't sure why it seemed to need less boost at higher revs cause otherwise it would just ping. Comparing my graph to the one you have on your site:

http://www.hypergearturbos.com/images/dynosheets/atr43/atr43g3/60comp110512E85/power.jpg

Mine is very similar to the 98 power curve (green curve, yellow is e85) up until my boost starts dropping off. Would have been nice to wind a bit more in.

I was just thinking could my intake be the issue? I have a stock airbox with 3inch piping to the turbo. Was hoping to keep the car looking stock but if it's causing this issue i'd be happy to make a pod filter enclosure

Definitely not that part of your intake - generally if it's pinging with more boost, it'll be from combustion chamber temps getting high. This is either from exhaust back pressure, or perhaps a restriction in the intake AFTER the turbo (intercooler is the usual suggested culprit here). Either that, or the turbo is just being pushed beyond its efficiency.

Intake leak could explain it, too.

If its leaking from somewhere after the turbo you could see the boost drop you are and then work the turbo harder to keep up the boost, pushing the compressor out of efficiency and causing the ping.

Sounds like you are almost there, you just need to go over the setup with a fine tooth comb and iron out any small bugs.

Intake leak could explain it, too.

If its leaking from somewhere after the turbo you could see the boost drop you are and then work the turbo harder to keep up the boost, pushing the compressor out of efficiency and causing the ping.

Sounds like you are almost there, you just need to go over the setup with a fine tooth comb and iron out any small bugs.

Yeah, just thought of this too. Intake leak would put it out of efficiency as it's trying to overcome a massive hole lol

Definitely not that part of your intake - generally if it's pinging with more boost, it'll be from combustion chamber temps getting high. This is either from exhaust back pressure, or perhaps a restriction in the intake AFTER the turbo (intercooler is the usual suggested culprit here). Either that, or the turbo is just being pushed beyond its efficiency.

Shouldn't be back pressure I have a full 3 inch exhaust with hi-flow cat would hope that's not already a restriction. My fmic is a return flow ARC which isn't particularly big as FMIC's go but once again I'd hope it can keep up with under 300rwkw

Intake leak could explain it, too.

If its leaking from somewhere after the turbo you could see the boost drop you are and then work the turbo harder to keep up the boost, pushing the compressor out of efficiency and causing the ping.

Sounds like you are almost there, you just need to go over the setup with a fine tooth comb and iron out any small bugs.

Ah that makes sense to me will definitely check this out hope I don't need to take my intake off again that was a pain for doing injectors

Did you take off the top plenum to do the injectors??

If so, did you replace the gasket and did you clean the surfaces extremely well? If not, I'd say you should check there for leaks LOL

Mick_o had one of those leaks and it was a bitch to spot. Car wouldnt exceed 280kw.. Found the leak by running water over the intake manifold while it was doing 4th gear pulls on the dyno. Fixed gasket and WHAM 335rwkw.

Did you take off the top plenum to do the injectors??

If so, did you replace the gasket and did you clean the surfaces extremely well? If not, I'd say you should check there for leaks LOL

Mick_o had one of those leaks and it was a bitch to spot. Car wouldnt exceed 280kw.. Found the leak by running water over the intake manifold while it was doing 4th gear pulls on the dyno. Fixed gasket and WHAM 335rwkw.

Didn't clean it well or change gasket so yea sounds like my most likely place :(

He's right, the graph shown is for a G3, but the intake leak might still be present and causing the 5ish psi boost drop. Fixing it might get him another 10-15kw from threshold to redline, definitely worth investigating.

I'm about to pull the top of my intake manifold off to do injectors. I should be right if i just use a genuine nissan gasket and clean is with a razor blade before i put new gasket on yeah?

I'm about to pull the top of my intake manifold off to do injectors. I should be right if i just use a genuine nissan gasket and clean is with a razor blade before i put new gasket on yeah?

No need to take the top of the plenum off, I did my injectors and only removed the crossover pipe and throttle body. Used a 13mm ratchet ring spanner for the front fuel rail bolt and socket/ universal/ 6" extension for the rear bolt, you will need 6mm hex for the 4 throttle body cap screws.

Edited by Missileman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...