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Sorry, I'm not familiar with OP6s - guess they aren't flash in general then, I was just talking about general turbos on RB20s. I am pretty sure Roy made more power with less lag on his, hell I've tuned an RB20DET with a junker T3/T04E bolted onto the stock manifold which spooled better than that. It puts things into perspective anyway.

On the other hand, the power is impressive for a bolt on turbo on an RB20DET, assuming I have the dyno reading comparison right (I use Dynapacks and even on them 240+kw on stock manifold on a stock RB20 is good going on 20psi) - is the motor completely unopened?

Yes the motor is completely unopened, (180000km ish, lol) pretty keen to try adjusting the cam gears, if I can get another 500rpm response i'd be cheering. Was 7.30pm when it got off the dyno, and had a 2.5 hr drive home, had been there since 9am, long day. (not all spent on my car though)

Pretty happy with it so far though, liking the power with the stock looking engine bay

Yes the motor is completely unopened, (180000km ish, lol) pretty keen to try adjusting the cam gears, if I can get another 500rpm response i'd be cheering. Was 7.30pm when it got off the dyno, and had a 2.5 hr drive home, had been there since 9am, long day. (not all spent on my car though)

Pretty happy with it so far though, liking the power with the stock looking engine bay

Advancing the intake cam gear will help with low down performance & spool, however it's a fun process of trial and error as too much will affect up top, too little and you're still in the same boat.. at the same time adjusting ignition timing to suit.

Stock Op6 Turbocharger on a R32 makes full boost around 4300RPMs and max out at 201rwkws. So I think its not too bad. Ideally hunting for response is probably better stick with stock turbine housing for response. How ever maximum power wise, the OP6 high flow is capable for a lot more.

First time doing a "skid pan" style circuit ( think i rather the track )
Was damp so pretty hard to put power down as you would expect

Latest SS2 By Stao

Second gear launch, just to see what happens lol.

Outside run

Had my rb20 tuned yesterday with Unigroup.

OP6 Highflow.

240rwkw, 20 psi, full boost around 4800rpm. 98 fuel.

Ran out of time to adjust cam gears, tuner thinks he can get approx 500rpm better response.

Car still uses stock r32 airbox, return flow cooler, engine bay looks stock.

Comes on hard, is lots of fun to drive.

Car makes some cool spool noises from inside :) Very happy so far.

Will post dyno graph up tonight, left it in the car.

Here's the graph. Think the clutch is on the way out, once I fix that, will head back and have a play with the cam gears

P5072736_zps94ab41fa.jpg

Pretty cool how you can fudge the dyno rev axis to make it look almost responsive. :P

hrms.. probably he's got the dyno start ramp around 4000 rpm / what ever that is in km/h

Pretty cool how you can fudge the dyno rev axis to make it look almost responsive. :P

LOL No.

There's just no point is having a tiny little graph in the far right side of the page when there's clearly an RPM reading on the bottom. Having his true powerband printed gives a more accurate description on how it actually performs in that area, which is what counts for the end user IMHO.

If it was bunched up it possibly would not be as obvious that its dropping off almost immediately after it comes on, it would possibly look more like it has peaked and was falling off naturally (clearly not the case when represented the way it is).

P.S. I may need a price on some 48mm length injectors, PM me if you have le time.

Yeah, should have got a graph with the full x axis, haha. Graph looks good until you read the rpm on the bottom, ha.

Was joking with a mate who had his 210rwkw sr20 tuned on same dyno that we should overlay graphs, but they lines probly wouldnt cross :)

Also, bit of feedback, as this is the hypergear thread.

I noticed the actuator had been preloaded, and had "17psi" written in marker. One of the first runs, car hit 10psi, then gradually climbed to redline, this was with boost controller (profec b) turned off.

So I guess it has been noted previously, to get the most out of it, I'm guessing you really need a EBC, that you can set the gain, and start boost, etc. I almost ran a boost T, not sure if I would have had the same result, but it sure made the tuning easier having a ebc.

Also noticed the machining of the rear housing eats into the flange area slightly. This will create a step on most dump pipes.

In my case I bought a Just jap bellmouth dump.

Common to die grind the edge to smooth out the flow, but in my case the step was around 10mm (!)

Im thinking combination of average dump pipe quality and the extra that had been machined due to the highflow.

I did die grind it, but still had a decent "hump" and still not happy, I cut away the bottom half of the dump, used half a 3 inch bend and welded that in. Then ground out the flange to suit.

So yeah, I'd think most dumps would need at least a die grind to suit this highflow.

Overall very happy with the turbo, for the price and "stealth ability" its pretty good.

Getting the most out of it you will need a proper 3 inch metal induction pipe with a good pod filter. Or at least 3 inches metal induction pipe. Once done, there will be a gain in power.

The actuator pressure is affected by how free flow the whole system is. Usually working with a larger induction with big cooler and very free flow exhaust would ended up with more boost pressure then some thing thing that is more restrictive. Also preloading on the actuator will have an positive effect towards response.

Alternatively if response do become concern, drop in a 21U turbine housing, it will increase response by roughly 500RPMs.

I have a 3 inch metal induction pipe. And one side of the airbox (on the bottom really) has been opened up.

Keen to stay with the airbox, but when I go back to play with the cam gears I'll try a pod filter, if it is a noticable gain, I'll use the pod, and make a airbox.

I wasn't knocking the turbo in any way, I understand I could could of got better results with a open exhaust (no cat) and better cooler/pipework (its only an ebay core, with home made 2.5 inch piping), but, street car, and I like the stock look.

I think 240rwkw is ok result for a RB20 with airbox and normal exhaust on 98 fuel.

If I wanted to try the 21U housing, is it something I can swap over Tao? Or do you guys need the turbo back? Whats the cost?

Currently I don't. I prefer developing new exhaust wheels for more specific applications. Once a turbine wheel is cropped it will becomes very unefficient, that requires lot more combustion pressure to rise shaft speed.

But if you want to crop a wheel to a given degree for what ever reasons I certainly can to do it.

Here's a Rb25det Auto Skyline tuned by DVSJez yesterday based on a bolton version of an ATR43SS2. made 271rwkws @ 20psi with a very quite and restrictive exhaust. Still excellent result for Auto:

271rwkwsstagea.jpg

Had some feedbacks from this customer. Car run 12.03 Sec quarter mile at 120.65M/H

quartermilerun.jpg

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Currently I don't. I prefer developing new exhaust wheels for more specific applications. Once a turbine wheel is cropped it will becomes very unefficient, that requires lot more combustion pressure to rise shaft speed.

But if you want to crop a wheel to a given degree for what ever reasons I certainly can to do it.

so would a backcut if you have a small turbine housing help?

That dyno result is good! and the quarter mile time is exceptional!

What's the deal with people taking blurry cropped photos!?!

Was there only one shot left on the film?

The conspiracy theorist in me says that if the photo was clear it would show 12.8 !

Edited by superben
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