Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finally got my car finished so here is the mod list and result:

Hypergear SS2 bolt on, 460 LPH walbro, xspurt 1000cc, return flow FMIC, custom split dump and 3 inch exhaust, splitfires, scotty's intake pipe, NPC clutch and a haltech plug in.

Results were:

240rwkw at 15psi on 98 (exactly what I asked for just safe and drivable) and

320.6rwkw at 22psi on E85!!

Power comes on very strong but still drives fairly well off boost. Full boost was hit before 130km/h in 4th and stayed perfect right throughout which is good for the internal wastegate. Dyno showed once the power peaked it very slowly fell away which is probably due to factory cams and valves but it's still awfully impressive.

post-95739-14170810196569_thumb.jpg

Thanks so much Stao for a great turbo, Paul and the boys at pulse racing seemed very impressed by it!!

  • Like 3

Nice result

I would expect that from mine when i get a retune @ 20 psi.

Pretty much exact same mods as you.

Im getting ~264kw @ 16 psi at the moment.

Is that on 98 or E85? The red line on that dyno graph is my 15psi run on E85 and that was 280 which was freaking amazing I thought

Great result. Thanks for sharing.

Further evaluation and testing, Since the ATR43SS-2 Alpha is too small for the Rb26det engine, I have made an customized SS-4 Alpha turbocharger using a much larger turbine, compressor how ever is slightly smaller then the current retail version. The goal is still 350rwkws on pump fuel with optimum responds. The new turbocharger drives great on road, be interested to see what the dyno says next week.

turboside.jpg

enginebay.jpg

I think I have found the reason for my boost tapering issue, looks like a silicon hose wasn't tightly clamped.

leaksilicon.jpg

IMG_20141202_135955.jpg

Been to the dyno today, It appears to have some sort of flow restriction or a boost leak some where, the new turbo is a 3582 equivalent made exact same amount of power as the smaller SS-2, while the boost tapering issue is unsolved.

But either way implanting VNT system on Rb26det engine is very successful. at 4100RPM the differences between engaged and disengaged was 10psi and 60kws.

Brown is full engaged, Blue is dis-engaged, light blue was when we did some experiments with VNT trigger that can be discarded.

img029b.jpg

boostmarked.jpg

Back to dyno again next week, hopefully with the boost issue fixed.

The boost tapering looks like a pressure drop across the core very similar to page 83 . There are no leaks, I will be upgrading to a standard 600x300x75mm cooler as well as getting rid of the factory twin bovs, Hopefully that will make a difference.

I've made few plugs and completed and leak test, which plugged the cooler piping that connects to the turbo, the 3.25 inches end that goes to the inlet manifold as well as the bov return. I pumped 20psi through using a compressor and it held pressure fine. It has a full 3inches turbo back exhaust. I can't think of any thing else apart from the cooler. Hopefully the new cooler fixes this problem.

It came in with stock exhaust. Before tuning with the twin N1s, I've had a JJR's twin 2.5 inches dump / front pipes installed along with a 3 inches turbo back exhaust with all straight through mufflers. Other three singles turbos they all had a brae made 3inches turbo back front pipes. The engine was pretty happy taking timing it did not appear to have symptoms of a block exhaust.

Funny I always end up with previously modified cars making crazy power that I've personally put very little work in, trouble shooting issues through modifying a fully stock car is a very different experience, hopefully after every thing is sorted, this thread would contain some useful data for RB26 modifiers.

adding one more result. This is an bolton version of an ATR43SS-2 on a RB25det with usual supporting mods making 278rwkws @ 17psi on a Dyno dynamic dyno, Sheet is a bit blurry, will have a clear photo updated once received. For now:

278rwkw.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...