Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Only if it's blocked.... Ive made 290kw with a blitz return flow.... I'd eliminate the boost tee first. My mods are similar to yours.

Edited by Badgaz

what size is the rear housing on the turbo? also that graph isn't that helpful...do they have one that shows rpm as well as afr?

Edited by Badgaz

Big ups for Tao especially for the Highflow and SS2 offerings. I've been running a 21U highflow now for almost 5 years.

The latest one has the ATR compressor housing with the latest wastegate and exhaust wheel design.

On a standard engine, standard exhaust manifold, standard intake manifold, greddy cooler & havoc hard intake pipe with a Z32 & 850cc injectors it makes over 300kw on pump E85 with 18PSI peak bleeding to 16PSI at the top.

But it's not the peak power figure that I love, it's the response and delivery of torque.

5F95EDA2-DB9F-4ED3-85D5-F9D250317AC3.jpg

  • Like 3

or just a basic MAC valve and let your ECU control it (if it has the capabilities), there's no way a bleed valve can surpass an EBC which runs in close loop oscillating to control the boost.

  • Like 1

I don't think the advantages of a EBC are drastic enough to correct a ~50rwkw deficit.

My TurboTech made 270rwkw no worries at 19psi and held it perfectly on an OP6 highflow.

  • Like 1

I don't think the advantages of a EBC are drastic enough to correct a ~50rwkw deficit.

My TurboTech made 270rwkw no worries at 19psi and held it perfectly on an OP6 highflow.

I do agree, but if he is looking to replace the boost tee as a possible source of power loss then I think he should get an EBC whilst he is at it. There are many advantages/features in running one.

Edited by owen1r

Hey tao how much is your Hypergear ls20.5g? Is it best run with a external gate and good high mount manifold? Or is there a bolt on version you make with stock rb25 6 bolt rearr.? Id probably prefer a vband rear. Make the price with the lines and whatever else ill need? Will it make 330-350kw at the wheels on e86/wmi and 270 ish kw on plain 98? Also how good does the adaptronic go compared to the likes of Vi-Pec/Link/Haltech ect in plug/play versions ofc. What can you do the Adaptronic for $$$'s wise with the sensors ill need and everything to just plug it in and set it up to go haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...