Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have a feel of shaft play, there should be about 1mm side to side and nothing in / out. If that is the case check for lose bits thats bolted to the turbo.

Noticed you are in Melbourne, Call and drop by for a quick inspection when you are free.

  • Like 2

Have a feel of shaft play, there should be about 1mm side to side and nothing in / out. If that is the case check for lose bits thats bolted to the turbo.

Noticed you are in Melbourne, Call and drop by for a quick inspection when you are free.

Thanks Stao PM coming your way.

Just finished installing my 21U high flow and had it tuned by Trent:

fn7atf.jpg

Much happier with the performance of this turbo compared with the OP6 variant I had last time.

As you can see, full boost is achieved by under 3,500rpm and I got 100rwkw at just over 3,000rpm.

My car's clutch began slipping towards the end of the tune, so Trent backed the power off; it could have made 260-270rwkw with more boost.

It's currently making 248rwkw at ~16psi. It feels better than my OP6 did at 20psi and 270rwkw, probably due to the wider spread of power/torque.

Big ups to Stao for this turbo and for putting up with my constant calls,visits and questions! :thumbsup:

Edited by colourclassic
  • Like 3

Thanks for the feed backs, always happy to help and the power curve looks great.

For 200rwkws by 4000RPM, the SS1PU would do it pretty well, or the 21U high flow can also do that assume you run enough boost at it.

11042955_864656746927801_611170638299213

10429303_864656813594461_292470324094080;;

11034300_864656860261123_504551220440252

Installed, housing mod by scotty, rest of welding im finishing up now myself. screamer is done, just gotta lengthen cooler piping to joiner and weld on a nipple for wastegate reference and we're good to go. can't wait to see how the SS2 goes.

They stops making power around 23psi. I was getting 327rwkws internally gated, but 367rwkws externally gated.

I completed a turbo install plus few other bits on the R34 today. They do give you a lot more useless stuff then they've done on R33s. Few things to point out:

I usually preload my actuators to 4mms. if for what ever reasons it has been removed and re-installed, please make sure it is loaded to where it was. More preloads can be added In case of boost tapering at high RPM on big boost.

preloading.jpg

The oil feeding line sits in between the turbo and chassis, do not fold them in between the turbo and manifold. The braided oil line is standard with and high flow services and is usually supplied with an ATR43 series turbochargers. Make sure you do get one if a 2nd hand turbo of ours is purchased.

turbooncar.jpg

Split fire coil packs are must in most of cases for high boost:

splitfire.jpg

Most of people uses a JJR bell mouth front pipe, so I've bought one my self.

frontpipe.jpg

and its not quite right, but for the price I won't complain.

dumpgasket.jpg

and gasket on our turbine housing is perfect:

gasketturbinehousing.jpg

Give it a little die-grinding and its ok.

grinding.jpg

The turbo in there is a SAT version of the ATR43G3 with a factory housing machined to suit. This is also the first internal gated version of that model, turbo comes in smooth and responsively. Still need to get a metal intake pipe made, the car will be running an Adaptronic plugin, hopefully hitting 300rwkws on pump fuel.

finished.jpg

  • Like 1

They stops making power around 23psi. I was getting 327rwkws internally gated, but 367rwkws externally gated.

I completed a turbo install plus few other bits on the R34 today. They do give you a lot more useless stuff then they've done on R33s. Few things to point out:

I usually preload my actuators to 4mms. if for what ever reasons it has been removed and re-installed, please make sure it is loaded to where it was. More preloads can be added In case of boost tapering at high RPM on big boost.

preloading.jpg

The oil feeding line sits in between the turbo and chassis, do not fold them in between the turbo and manifold. The braided oil line is standard with and high flow services and is usually supplied with an ATR43 series turbochargers. Make sure you do get one if a 2nd hand turbo of ours is purchased.

turbooncar.jpg

Split fire coil packs are must in most of cases for high boost:

splitfire.jpg

Most of people uses a JJR bell mouth front pipe, so I've bought one my self.

frontpipe.jpg

and its not quite right, but for the price I won't complain.

dumpgasket.jpg

and gasket on our turbine housing is perfect:

gasketturbinehousing.jpg

Give it a little die-grinding and its ok.

grinding.jpg

The turbo in there is a SAT version of the ATR43G3 with a factory housing machined to suit. This is also the first internal gated version of that model, turbo comes in smooth and responsively. Still need to get a metal intake pipe made, the car will be running an Adaptronic plugin, hopefully hitting 300rwkws on pump fuel.

finished.jpg

Can you keep the AFM, as most people do. So if you are doing more like for like testing it would make sense.

post-84937-14254329334354_thumb.jpg

Some feedback for you stao.

> Stock untouched RB30E bottom end

> Stock untouched RB25DET Neo head

> VCT

> Hypergear ATR43SS2 (mid 2013 model)

> 6boost exhaust manifold

> Turbosmart 45mm hypergate (7psi spring) venting to atmo

> 3" straight through exhaust

> E85

> Adaptronic R34 GT-T select plug in

> X-Spurt 1000cc injectors

> R32 GTR intercooler

First impressions are that its so much fun everywhere in the rev range. Comes on to boost very fast in the upper RPM as you would expect, lower RPM is still pretty quick but has room to improve.

The cam timing is slightly out and I didn't have time to get a degree wheel and set them perfectly to zero, the gate is only running a 7psi spring at the moment which makes it a little lazy also.

Once I get back on the dyno and fiddle with both intake and exhaust cams (both are now adjustable from the front thanks to Ben C34) and chuck a 14psi spring in the gate it should be quite a monster. Can't upload the boost graph for some reason. 10psi low boost and 13psi high at the moment. I assume this is not even reaching the turbos efficiency range yet? I haven't seen anyone run such low boost using one of your turbos haha.

It's quick enough for me already but I really want to go back fix the cam timing, bigger gate spring and chuck 20+ psi at it and see what it makes hahaha.

nice, what do you think is causing your waveness on your graph lines? if thats only 13psi then thats pretty awesome! what power is normally achievable with GTR intercooler?

Edited by Badgaz

attachicon.gifImageUploadedBySAU Community1425432922.178198.jpg

Some feedback for you stao.

> Stock untouched RB30E bottom end

> Stock untouched RB25DET Neo head

> VCT

> Hypergear ATR43SS2 (mid 2013 model)

> 6boost exhaust manifold

> Turbosmart 45mm hypergate (7psi spring) venting to atmo

> 3" straight through exhaust

> E85

> Adaptronic R34 GT-T select plug in

> X-Spurt 1000cc injectors

> R32 GTR intercooler

First impressions are that its so much fun everywhere in the rev range. Comes on to boost very fast in the upper RPM as you would expect, lower RPM is still pretty quick but has room to improve.

The cam timing is slightly out and I didn't have time to get a degree wheel and set them perfectly to zero, the gate is only running a 7psi spring at the moment which makes it a little lazy also.

Once I get back on the dyno and fiddle with both intake and exhaust cams (both are now adjustable from the front thanks to Ben C34) and chuck a 14psi spring in the gate it should be quite a monster. Can't upload the boost graph for some reason. 10psi low boost and 13psi high at the moment. I assume this is not even reaching the turbos efficiency range yet? I haven't seen anyone run such low boost using one of your turbos haha.

It's quick enough for me already but I really want to go back fix the cam timing, bigger gate spring and chuck 20+ psi at it and see what it makes hahaha.

Looking promising so far will really come on when you wind a few more psi in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They’re so great that I know of someone pulling one out to go back to a sequential 
    • Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part that I'm aware of. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they have to, somehow. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec (and is the price of the damn diffuser alone). How does the liner interact with this? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
    • OR, Tell the Motec to STFU, you said shift, so try shifting! But then yes, I agree, more sensors needed to. Put either a wheel speed sensor, or a diff speed sensor on it. Then get an input shaft speed sensor too. (I say input shaft speed, and not engine RPM). This way, you can now also log and see if the clutch is slipping (RPM, vs input shaft speed), and you can calculate gear (Input shaft speed / Output shaft speed). At least then if the gear position sensor fails you have a backup. And realistically, the Motec should only worry about what gear you're in for the parts where I'm assuming you have some power management strategies in it for the lower gears. (IE, lower boost, maybe different throttle curves, different ignition curves, etc etc). But it should stop it shifting. Pull the flappy, that f**ker should just attempt the motion! Heck, even on a sequential like on a motorbike, you can keep trying to kick it up a gear all you want, the physically part of the box takes care of not being able to loop the whole way around the box! Only part you'd have to worry is how it gets to reverse.  But that's on the driver... An R32 shouldn't be so smart as to try and override the driver on a gear shift  
×
×
  • Create New...