Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

hypergear

By hypergear,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

why are people running these turbos at 17-18psi and not 22psi?? Whats the go with the dude above asking for a 14psi actuator, why not a 22psi one?? confused...:unsure:

The headgasket, the combustion pressure, the heat. Alot of issues come in when running high boost. I don't think the standard headgasket is good for much above 18psi for too long, especially on 15+ year old motors. You are really gonna start increasing the intake air charge on long runs. Sure it looks good on a dyno but how long is your motor going to last you.

Stao, I have one of your 17psi actuators which I bought from here, I tested it out and the thing does not open up to 25psi... It starts opening around 19psi... I really think you should use some higher quality actuators. Garret parts are cheaper than the actuators you have and should be of better quality and provide a straight and consistent boost level.

Its a sloppy setup having an actuator which opens randomly when on boost. On this low pressure actuator I got from you, sometimes it opens at 8psi sometimes it will shoot up to 14psi. Other days it won't go anywhere near 11psi. Its very strange. Air temp wont mean shit, pressure is pressure, if the actuator is holding 10 constant, it should always hold 10 constant. I'm guessing maybe when under bonnet temps or the turbo temps get hot, the spring may get soft causing boost to flop or the spring to work out of spec.

I don't know but I do need to run more boost but scared to do so with these actuators. Are you able to source Garret actuators to fit your turbos? Have you considered kinugawa actuators?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Actuator-SUBARU-Legacy-WRX-IHI-VF40-VF46-15-Psi-/280712012508?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415bbd62dc

  • Replies 12.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Lithium
Lithium

I was reading through the thread and was going to weigh in anyway, though looks like you're very much on the page I am reading from - so I'll +1 with with a bit more anecdotal evidence to support it

hypergear
hypergear

The ATR28SS15 would be a perfect turbo for your application. I didn't look into some thing even smaller as it doesn't make that much of a difference in response but did loses quite a lot of power. I'

Dose Pipe Sutututu
Dose Pipe Sutututu

^ lol... maybe I'll use a 3" intake pipe and add in more bends.. that usually gets the suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuutuuututuutut going LOL. Anyhow, some real world facts to back up the results.. errbody likes ti

Posted Images

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

I really dont want external gate boost control... That will totally eliminate any stock looking setup.

My old gt3071 high flow had perfect boost control to 14psi. These actuators feel very lazy.

I manage to hold boost pretty well? Drops off around 2psi towards redline, that's deliberate though.

What boost controller do you have? These actuators are really inconsistent. Check Taos last couple of posts, he had one of his high pressure actuators spike to 25psi. You cant make the actuator open earlier then it should, a boost controller can bleed off air to delay the actuator opening so unless your boost controller has a near perfect 17psi spring fitted in it, its maybe just a one off that it is holding 17psi allowing you to control 18psi. I'm not worry about it tapering down, my concern is the initial boost level and the fact that you cannot control this. Bleeding off air will only cause the boost controller to open later.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

I really dont want external gate boost control... That will totally eliminate any stock looking setup.

My old gt3071 high flow had perfect boost control to 14psi. These actuators feel very lazy.

What boost controller do you have? These actuators are really inconsistent. Check Taos last couple of posts, he had one of his high pressure actuators spike to 25psi. You cant make the actuator open earlier then it should, a boost controller can bleed off air to delay the actuator opening so unless your boost controller has a near perfect 17psi spring fitted in it, its maybe just a one off that it is holding 17psi allowing you to control 18psi. I'm not worry about it tapering down, my concern is the initial boost level and the fact that you cannot control this. Bleeding off air will only cause the boost controller to open later.

Greddy Profec Bspec II.

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Stao, I have one of your 17psi actuators which I bought from here, I tested it out and the thing does not open up to 25psi... It starts opening around 19psi... I really think you should use some higher quality actuators. Garret parts are cheaper than the actuators you have and should be of better quality and provide a straight and consistent boost level.

First of all turbos are different with unique wheel design as well as housing and gate sizes. Means the back pressure in them are not the same. So high pressure actuator only means it hold certain pressure on the turbo that has been specifically made for, refer to what I was originally asked to build.

If you run an actuator from a different turbo to on some thing else obviously its going to give different readings. Eg. If I run an actuator that made to hold 18psi on a .58 rear housing, then that actuator will hold 24psi on a .82 rear housing. As the back pressure from the .58 is lot greater then the .82. Only means its not the correct part, does not mean its bad quality.

That is why I asked you to keep the original actuator I've tested and supplied with the turbo, or buy it back from my self. Have a look at my boost pressure curve for the SS2, that is a perfect actuator for that turbo.

In terms of High pressure actuators we have 4 different spring settings so I guess you've fitted the strongest one by luck, same as what I've fitted on the SS1-PU.

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Oooh yeah. Just paid for the pu prototype. Excited to see how she goes.

Will post up results when the cars been tuned.

What are you strapping it onto? Your profile lists a GTR, are you going single turbo on the RB26?? If so I will be very interested to see how this goes!

Just organized another actuator from Tao, designed for my turbo! Excitement rising!

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

What are you strapping it onto? Your profile lists a GTR, are you going single turbo on the RB26?? If so I will be very interested to see how this goes!

Just organized another actuator from Tao, designed for my turbo! Excitement rising!

He mentioned something about an RB25 drift car at some stage, I forget where...

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

He mentioned something about an RB25 drift car at some stage, I forget where...

Ah cool.

Can you PM me your Profec B spec 2 settings and what boost you are running on high and low? Ive got the same controller so Ill use your settings just as a guide line for when I get the high pressure actuator. What is the max boost your greddy controller stores on your boost settings?

My high settings read about 11.3psi and low is about 10psi. Sometimes a 13psi spike on high. High is 100% too lol.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Ah cool.

Can you PM me your Profec B spec 2 settings and what boost you are running on high and low? Ive got the same controller so Ill use your settings just as a guide line for when I get the high pressure actuator. What is the max boost your greddy controller stores on your boost settings?

My high settings read about 11.3psi and low is about 10psi. Sometimes a 13psi spike on high. High is 100% too lol.

I'll check all my settings for ya tomorrow mate :thumbsup:

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Probably want some thing knocks less on high boost.

Also For people who's thinking doing Z32 ECU with Nistune on R33. Don't do it. I'm having so much trouble getting it to work, they are unreliable, and many areas that can’t be touched.

Big thanks Trent's spent 6 hours tuning and try to fix it and it just don't work.

I'm thinking of modding the illustration car back to stock or going for a PFC or Link ecu for my next run.

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Uh oh. I have a about 5 z32-r33 nistunes to do this month. U have me scared now. With my drift car ill be running a rb20 ecu with a msd or similar rpm window switch.

Boys the prototype pu turbo will be going onto a customers R33. Very tidy car running power fc, 3inch etc. And a profec B i fitted to it last sunday.

My r32 gtst with rb25 drift car is running a different turbo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      braided lines for the turbos

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      For your application, where you'll be at that 1/2" size or perhaps larger, yeah, excellent. Although not if you need a tight bending radius anywhere, because the corrugated stuff is not anywhere near as flexible as rubber/teflon cored stuff. But for turbo oil lines? No. Too big. They just don't do the corro stuff down at the ~1/4" ID size that you'd want, and if they did the OD of it would probably be a bit too fat for fitting it into the tight spaces available. I use hoses like that all the time for fuel gases (LPG, NG) and liquid fuels (HFO, diesels, waste oils). When we did the London Olympic cauldron, with the 204 individual burners on it, we had miles of the stuff (although a lot of that was teflon core). A bunch of that crap is still cluttering up the workshop, more than 12 years later!
    • The Bogan
      braided lines for the turbos

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Would something like this be an option  https://processhose.com/products/configurable-metal-hoses/1-2-in-t316-stainless-steel-annular-corrugated-configurable-flexible-metal-hose-assembly-with-ends-t304-single-braid-masterflex-af5550.html I'm looking at this for replacing the OEM EGR when installing a aftermarket intake plenum 
    • r32-25t
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By r32-25t · Posted

      The once piece tail shafts with cv type joints on either end are the ones that end up vibrating and the vibration is caused by the cv joint binding as it turns, I’ve also seen them explode from the binding 
    • Kinkstaah
      braided lines for the turbos

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Take this with a pinch of salt, it's from someone (me) who got annoyed with turbos entirely. I hated aftermarket lines. If I had the option to use hardlines with whatever turbo I had - I would use them, 10/10, 100% of the time. The only reason people go larger, heat resistent, shielded lines etc is because they have to. And yes they don't last forever. Even if you spend big bucks on all the best heat shielding money can buy, with the best heat resistant, fuel resistant, oil resistant, radiation resistant hose, they get stiff and break down and just don't last the way a metal pipe will.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Unfortunately I am quite literally halfway across the globe. So all sources for parts like that are far away for me. What do you mean by that exactly?
×
×
  • Create New...