Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 615
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

356mm front, 343mm rears...

Ben: I'll take some decent pics of the wheels tomorrow... Had LOTS of requests for them, but haven't really had an opportunity to take any.

No full floating/strap drive?

They are floating discs...

Strap drives are for road cars. They can result in warping when subjected to high temperatures...

Bobbin heads are much more suited to race applications, going by the many brake specialists who I spoke to...

They are floating discs...

Strap drives are for road cars. They can result in warping when subjected to high temperatures...

Bobbin heads are much more suited to race applications, going by the many brake specialists who I spoke to...

Ah, my bad, couldn't tell from the pics I assumed they were fixed/solid mounted.

Have only seen strap drive in the AP range, quite a few GTR's here in VIC run them.

Then again there are no hardcore race GTR's down here.. :P

Have you decided on what pads you're going to use?

Ah, my bad, couldn't tell from the pics I assumed they were fixed/solid mounted.

Have only seen strap drive in the AP range, quite a few GTR's here in VIC run them.

Then again there are no hardcore race GTR's down here.. :P

Have you decided on what pads you're going to use?

Yah, Strap Drive is an AP Racing innovation... Supposedly cheaper than the traditional Bobbin Head fixtures, but as I mentioned, more suited to road applications than high temperature track/race applications.

I'm no race engineer, and I can only really go by what I'm told... Which is why I seek out multiple opinions and reconcile data to make sure people aren't feeding me bullsh1t ;) But it isn't a foolproof method, so I'm more than open to what people on SAU think!

Using Ferrodo DS3000 front and rear at the moment... I'm sure that I'll be massively rear biased at it stands, so will play with pad setup and brake bias to fix it.

Yah, Strap Drive is an AP Racing innovation... Supposedly cheaper than the traditional Bobbin Head fixtures, but as I mentioned, more suited to road applications than high temperature track/race applications.

I'm no race engineer, and I can only really go by what I'm told... Which is why I seek out multiple opinions and reconcile data to make sure people aren't feeding me bullsh1t :P But it isn't a foolproof method, so I'm more than open to what people on SAU think!

Using Ferrodo DS3000 front and rear at the moment... I'm sure that I'll be massively rear biased at it stands, so will play with pad setup and brake bias to fix it.

I've got the same brake setup, but different brand. Have found that Pagid RS14's up front and Hawk HP Plus at the back work a treat - car is very well balanced under brakes. I found the DS3000's burnt up in 3 or 4 events. I'm getting 6+ events on the pagids, and have just changed the rears after 24 events.

I've got the same brake setup, but different brand. Have found that Pagid RS14's up front and Hawk HP Plus at the back work a treat - car is very well balanced under brakes. I found the DS3000's burnt up in 3 or 4 events. I'm getting 6+ events on the pagids, and have just changed the rears after 24 events.

Brilliant... Thanks heaps for that feedback mate!

Yeah, I used DS3000s in a previous GTR which I also gifted with CP5555 pistons, and they did wear out quite quickly.

I've heard good things about Hawk HT10 pads as well...

Andrew,

What time you leaving our area tomorrow morning mate?

Andy and I are meeting near Longueville Rd around 6:50am

I'm not planning on leaving that early mate :P I'll leave at about 7:30am I think... No rush to get there ;)

Yah, Strap Drive is an AP Racing innovation...

Performance Friction did it first, AP copied and called it a different name :P

Race cars dont have the same problems as they went to carbon rotors (typically) which dont have the expansion issues of steel rotors. In classes where they are forced to still run steel rotors you will find that manufacturers all run different types of floating hats

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...