Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I spoke with SAS today they said the end of the month they should be ready. They are remapping them in japan so it must be possible.

Yeah I tried contacting "MINES" in Japan for one of their VX-ROMS. . ..haven't heard from them in over 18 months of trying and e-mailing monthly. . They do one for the VQ25DET.

You can get them on the auctions.. but I would love to know how and what it is programmed for before spooning out $$$$ $1,200 to $1,500.

If only hey

The mines will work out way more than that. I did the conversion it was like $1800. Plus freight and taxes duties ect. Be careful with the ons on auction sites as a lot of them are exchange item. Found that out the hard way.

Yeah I tried contacting "MINES" in Japan for one of their VX-ROMS. . ..haven't heard from them in over 18 months of trying and e-mailing monthly. . They do one for the VQ25DET.

You can get them on the auctions.. but I would love to know how and what it is programmed for before spooning out $$$$ $1,200 to $1,500.

If only hey

Mines, Nismo & Impul all do stand alone ECU's for vq25det.

I like the Nismo one personally, mainly due to the fact that SNOW is removed and an "economy" map is initiated when you flick the "snow" switch.... pretty cool I think... although I do believe that SAS were looking at the possibility of dual maps using a similar technique.

If you really want one of the Jap ECU's, the easiest way would be to contact RHDJapan and request that it gets listed. Part numbers and as much detail as possible make this easier AND you get a (small) discount for getting the item listed :)

VQ25DET ECU is able to remap but it is not able to real time remap tune.

Maybe a stupid question but if that is the case, how would they be able to be tuned to different car setups (for those of us who prefer not to use piggybacks)?

Edited by iamhe77
  • 1 year later...

I either am selling my car or getting a tune and keeping it.. its costing way too much to run!!

What will a tune do for the woeful economy that they seem to get.. i need to get more than 450km's from a tank on this thing..

75L should be getting me over 600-650.

i do 50/50 highway/other.. never really am in traffic however..

I either am selling my car or getting a tune and keeping it.. its costing way too much to run!!

What will a tune do for the woeful economy that they seem to get.. i need to get more than 450km's from a tank on this thing..

75L should be getting me over 600-650.

i do 50/50 highway/other.. never really am in traffic however..

A tune should get you way better economy......mines about 9.5 to 10 hwy and 13-16 around town......and you know the power numbers!

Well i drive till the light comes on.. and then drive another 50km's and then i generally get about 72-75L's in..

that usually lasts me about 450km's maybe pushing 500 if it hasnt been raining much.. (i like skidz. and 18x10 dont skid in the dry)

so if this factory tune computer option is finally coming i'd been keen as to get it. as i was going to sell it because i cant afford to run it now.. i figure the evo would be better on fuel with e85 conversion done to it.

Well i drive till the light comes on.. and then drive another 50km's and then i generally get about 72-75L's in..

that usually lasts me about 450km's maybe pushing 500 if it hasnt been raining much.. (i like skidz. and 18x10 dont skid in the dry)

so if this factory tune computer option is finally coming i'd been keen as to get it. as i was going to sell it because i cant afford to run it now.. i figure the evo would be better on fuel with e85 conversion done to it.

SAS tune wont happen :(

That still seems fairly heavy on fuel; I'm not economy man either, but I'mmuch closer to 550km - 580km when leaning on it, and over 600km in girlypants mode...

I only ever get 600 when its a non stop 110 drive.. snow and back etc..

i've noticed after putting on that gtr bov perhaps economy is better.. but not 100% sure on that. tho i did install all the undertray stuff back on too.

wonder what else i can do to make the numbers better.

I find it quite amazing that M35 economy can vary so much. I've posted about this before, but I can get over 700km (~11L/100km) when driven pretty hard, but seem to get somewhat less when dawdling.

I think it's got something to do with where the engine is at it's most efficient throttle opening, ie mostly closed is less efficient than mostly open (but not WOT). Sort of why the ultra economy seekers do the burn & glide technique. So choosing the winding old road & having a bit of a go instead of using the new freeway could actually use less fuel as well as being a whole lot more fun.:rolleyes:

Now it's obvious given the right setup (Jetwreck's for example) that a good tune can turn these cars into reasonably frugal machines, for their size & weight & power output.

As to why some suffer exceptionally poor economy (other than due to issues with the common culpits like oxygen sensors etc) I've got no idea..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...