Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got the older (2008) ML Mitsubishi Triton - 3.2L auto with factory chip 132kw and 420nm 2300kg tow rating. Happily pulls the skyline on a tandem trailer with full steel deck (i.e. heavy ass trailer) at any speed required. Only gripe is the 4 speed auto isn't quite geared right for hilly NZ roads, sometimes seems like it wants another gear between 3rd and 4th up hills.

Can be had pretty cheap these days with reasonable kms on the clock.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

As promised here is my towing report using the Challenger to PI and back. Tows fine, no problems there. Just keep in mind that it has a 2.5 liter TD with a torque reduced auto transmission. But stuck her on cruise control and it delivered 11.6 l/100 average over 1720k of varied road and traffic conditions, from 110kph down.

A Jeep forum may be the go for the Cherokee, good luck.

Falcons have been mentioned here a lot, had a chat at PI with two mature age WA blokes who had towed their Z cars over with latish model Falcon utes. One a six, the other a V8. Both were happy and will do it again, that's a pretty big plus for ye olde Falcon.

A real tow car test is 110kph* down hill on a winding road when you have to brake to avoid the revenue raisers, if the tow car ignores the tail trying to wag the dog then it's good.

* legal speed limit, which always makes sense and is safest. Govco dickheads.

A real tow car test is 110kph* down hill on a winding road when you have to brake to avoid the revenue raisers, if the tow car ignores the tail trying to wag the dog then it's good.

I went from hydraulic to electric brakes on both axles and i have not had the " wagging tail " problem since :)

Airbags are going in as the 22yr old springs don't like the wieght ., I have done 100,000kms of hassle free towing with the old 4.2 turbo diesel

485297_633030303380162_844960270_n.jpg

so the santa fe had its first towing trip.

managed 9.2L per 100 down to Wakefield from Gosford. 280kms

some times I had to remind myself i was towing however the noise did remind me.

being a wagon the noise from the hitch was quite loud going over bumps and stuff. in the commodore no where near as loud.

coming back managed 9.7L per 100 as the stupid M2 had road works and of all the traffic lights from M2 to F3 I got 95% of them as red lights haha

Is anyone using a Toyota prado for towing with?

I'm looking at upgrading my old pajero to an 07-08 prado with the d-4d common rail turbo diesel with the 5 speed auto to tow my r33 gtst with.

Plenty of folks have and I'm sure they'd be just fine.

so the santa fe had its first towing trip.

managed 9.2L per 100 down to Wakefield from Gosford. 280kms

some times I had to remind myself i was towing however the noise did remind me.

being a wagon the noise from the hitch was quite loud going over bumps and stuff. in the commodore no where near as loud.

coming back managed 9.7L per 100 as the stupid M2 had road works and of all the traffic lights from M2 to F3 I got 95% of them as red lights haha

Sounds promising!

Is the the hitch "tongue square" or the ball/trailer that's noisy? A bit of fiddling can get rid of a lot of that.

Bolt/nut for the hitch square to take the slop out, and tighten the trailer hitch adjustment over the ball.

Very good economy!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...