Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 215
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I think I was hitting around 170km/h at the end of the straight in the Stagea/LOLvo/LOLwagon, but I was concentrating more on where my braking points were or should have been, so I wasn't looking much at the speedo when the car was reaching its highest speeds.

I think I got roughly 180km/h before hitting the anchors on the straight. I think I need a good tailwind to push me to the speed limiter :blink:

Yeah, 170 for me. I really wanted to hit the limiter, but just was too worried about slowing down for the turn. Maybe i shouldn't have worried so much, seeing as though i made the turn every time haha

High 180's for me.. the little failvia needs moar huff!!! Plus wing will slow me down a good 10-12kms.. lose some top speed but gain rear traction x11ty!

Yeah Charles i agree, i was thinking the camera could be causing that but i have another photo from the rear with the camera on the passanger side, yet the wing is uber flexing on the same side.... DUNNO!?!?!? *shrugs*

i hit over 200, then the airbag deployed LOL

lol dont you hate when you hit the wrong button :P

I have footage of me coming around the kink and you pulling over after the incorrect deployment.....

Hope wasnt too much damage apart from windscreen!

Ive only been going up to 9000rpm so far, still getting a feel for it :D

Actually was way more confident in it at OP compared to Wakefield, I didnt once lock a brake, run wide, grab the wrong pedal by accident, miss a gear or anything it was a faultless day, just needed about another 3 sessions to start pushing faster lap times.

I wasnt watching the speedo that much but was off the 180kmph speedo. I was pushing hard all day trying to find mine and the cars limits think it was over 200kmph on the power FC when i came off on at the end of the straight.

I wasnt watching the speedo that much but was off the 180kmph speedo. I was pushing hard all day trying to find mine and the cars limits think it was over 200kmph on the power FC when i came off on at the end of the straight.

Oooof! Have to say though, your car looked awesome mate :D i love it :D

hats off to Cassbo for taking those pics, some of them are sensational mate, well done. How on earth you took so many, raced all day, and did some flagging is amazing!!!!

Cheers mate.

hats off to Cassbo for taking those pics, some of them are sensational mate, well done. How on earth you took so many, raced all day, and did some flagging is amazing!!!!

Cheers mate.

Truth be told I didn't get around to flagging :)

~Jay~ with the blue 350Z stole my camera while he did the flagging though, also he took some pics during my session as can be seen from the photos of me driving my car :P

To tell the truth, I could have taken more photos but I spent a fair amount of time walking around and talking to people. The next OP day I'll try to get around to more corners for photos :)

lol dont you hate when you hit the wrong button :)

I have footage of me coming around the kink and you pulling over after the incorrect deployment.....

Hope wasnt too much damage apart from windscreen!

just the windscreen :)

wouldnt mind seeing the footage

I was sitting on the limiter in 4th for a while before slowing down a bit for the kink.. I had decided if i put it in 5th i would lose about 50m in the gearchange anyway, and it would only make my approach to T1 even more slippery

next time

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...