Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

na just a good gated sump from asr. i'm not overly thrilled about the extra weight from the extra 2l of oil, so the idea of all the extra weight for 12l of oil and the lines and shit for a dry sump don't make it a good sell..... and i'm being a giant jew.

Funds is the only thing that is stopping it from going again. I've got the new bottom end there ready to go, just need a bash some restrictors in it, and buy a sump.

na, still hydro lifters. Only reason I can see a need for solid lifters would be for bigger cams. But I can't see why you'd ever put bigger cams on a 20, as they came over cammed from the factory.

boost and revs=full catch can. There is a guy down here who circuit races a std RB20, and he won't rev past 6500 with the same boost as me (23psi) because he fills the catch can. The amount of oil that is coming out can't be fixed with catch tank tricks. And for the $30-$40 it's going to cost I thought I might as do it. I'm using SydneyKids specs.

had 263rwkw at the start of the week, 200 - 220rwkw on the new engine (depending on the heat of the engine), then take 5psi of boost off from day 4 onwoods...180kwrw??

E85 did give it a good kick in the pants though. I only tuned the 98ron map on the road, so I don't have a power figure for it.

Edited by sav man

I was running 24psi and 8000rpm out of my RB20 for a fair while running about the same power as you...

Not a single drop in my catch can and that car got belted the f**k out of it on a stock motor, so maybe the motor is a little loose or tired?

I'm at a bit of a loss to be honest.

I'm struggling to understand how .2 bar can make such a difference. Mine doesn't pump into the catch can either, and I'm not exactly easy on it. Even after 5 days of targa there was still no sign that there'd been oil in the can at any time (I have it so it self recovers if it does pump into the can)...... Hell, #1 piston was half melted away and it still wasn't pumping oil! lol

I'm putting mine back together stock internally, and will be interested to see if a little more boost tips it over the edge.

what thickness oil do you run? I was using Motul 8100 5w-40, but i'm going to goto 25w60. Neither engine was compression tested or leak down tested.

The N1 never has this issue, even with 25psi and a big nitto pump.

Edited by sav man

Yeh Castrol for all RB20 crate motors :) I have only ever blown oil when there was plenty of limiter action. Bump the limiter a few rpm so i never hit it and no problem. Even the breathing on limiter isnt a common thing, but its about as good as i can do for a reason for the 2-3 times it has happened

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...