Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So it’s been over a year since an update.

The first event last year was the Poatina Mountain Race, it was pretty much a 7km hill climb with the option for a navigator. I put my girlfriend in the silly seat to call the notes. We came 5th outright, and were the fastest 2wd car up the hill for the day.

484894_10152232320262188_474206960_n.jpg

The next event was Targa Tasmania. As the car was going well I didn’t make any changes to it before the event, just freshened up the parts. But I did have a new navigator in Julie Winton-Monet. For the first 3 days we controlled the early modern competition. We won every stage on the first day and ended with a 30 sec lead.

On the second day we won all bar 1 stage and put another 30 secs on the field. Happy with our 1 min lead we backed off a bit and kept an eye on the times so we could slowly pull a gap, while being easy on the car. Our main competition had an oil pump failure, which gave us a 7 min lead at the end of the day.

Day four was really wet, so I put my green tyres on and filled the boot up for extra traction. We took off from the first stage and the alternator light came on, I turned everything electrical off I could and limped to the end of the stage. I got out and checked the belt and checked the plugs on the alternator. But it was all over, the battery went flat. The voltage regulator had failed. We got a jump start and limped along behind the field for the rest of the day dropping 30 mins.

We replaced the alternator and attacked day 5 at full pace. It was another wet day, and it turned out that the car is pretty good in the wet. We were 3rd overall on the wet first stage, only 5 secs behind the winning R35 GTR, it was our stage of the event. The stages ended up drying out and we won the last stage outright, which we were pretty happy with.

Targa was a what could have been, but sometimes that’s just how it is.

10580838_720072244731439_227152757468877
10553699_720072151398115_304434144055389
10552466_720071921398138_836836185488384

I had a lot of problems for the next few months. I blew a head gasket 3 weeks after Targa. So I pulled the engine down and found the head was damaged from valve float. I got that repaired and put new rings and bearings in the engine.

Next event the diff exploded, turns out when you take a diff to be checked, it means reset the pinion to the wrong position. When I had the car apart again I noticed it had pushed a heap of coolant out. I had to pull the engine out and get the block decked. I hadn’t checked it properly when it was apart the first time.

I put everything back together and headed to the Legerwood Lane hill climb. I finally had a good event coming 2nd overall and fastest 2wd.

Next event was the Phillip Island support race for the V8 Supercars, which would be my first ever open race meet. I loved the track. My fastest lap was a 1:43.9 which qualified me 4t, there was more time to be had, but I ran out of laps. The car was way too soft, it was still in full rally trim, but I had to live with it.

I finished the first race 2nd after 2 people dropped out. I finished the second race in 3rd and hit a seagull going over the start line. Last race I came 3rd again after some wheel to wheel on the first lap. I got 2nd overall for the weekend.

1922089_795179067209832_4465319367135263

1533733_782811248457538_3069334423641519

1459143_782810905124239_5375044671092430

Edited by sav man
  • Like 4

Next event is Targa Hellyer Gorge in 4 weeks. Targa have released new regs, which mean I need to add 100kg to the car. I'm currently putting the weight in, and re-springing the car to suit

EPIC!

Re Targa. You have had a few problems with alternators haven't you? Have you seen those $90 lithium jumper packs? Keep two of those in the car, they are only the size of two old VHS tapes. Hell, I would wire up a dual battery setup so at least if the alternator goes you can get through on battery power. What is another 8kgs?

We had a problem that the standard alternator couldn't drive the heated windscreen. I got a maxima 110a to drive it and that's the one that failed. I disconnected the passengers side of the windscreen to get round the current draw issue.

With the new regs I will be carrying a lot more spats

EPIC!

Re Targa. You have had a few problems with alternators haven't you? Have you seen those $90 lithium jumper packs? Keep two of those in the car, they are only the size of two old VHS tapes. Hell, I would wire up a dual battery setup so at least if the alternator goes you can get through on battery power. What is another 8kgs?

12V Lithium jumpers for $90? Where can I find these?

We had a problem that the standard alternator couldn't drive the heated windscreen. I got a maxima 110a to drive it and that's the one that failed. I disconnected the passengers side of the windscreen to get round the current draw issue.

With the new regs I will be carrying a lot more spats

Spats or spares? BTW what were those green tyres you mentioned for the wet? Cheers

Spares is what i meant.

We are able to run 8 tyres for Targa, so my plan was to run the first set into the ground, and save the new (green) tyres for the end or the wet.

I run Dunlop D03 in R2 compound

  • 1 month later...

I converted my car to the new Targa regs a couple of weeks ago. I bought 80kg of lead from the scrap yard, made a mould and melted it down with an oxy torch.

7E8903C6-625B-4D40-A9A9-14008862464F_zps

9249F095-2E6D-4940-9195-E244732CD1C3_zps

The car now has 51:49 weight distribution, which has given it awsome drive, but it understeers like a pig. Once I get some new springs and a rear sway bar it should make it better. Rear shocks will probably need a re-valve too.

I ran Targa Hellyer gorge last weekend. I ended up changing the lift and pressure pump during the event, as the 044 got very noisy, so I replaced it, then it got noisy again. Turns out the lift pump was failing and filling the surge tank while I was idling around, but but running out under load. The event also gave me a starting point for the new regs, so I know what I need to change to make it faster.

10960299_863144057041966_398360849286384

Edited by sav man

Is there something in the regs that says you have to run it inside the cabin? Personally I would make the lead into 5kgs sheets/plates and bolt them to the underside of the car.

I always envisaged running it under where the back seat would go. Close to the COG but between the axles and nice and low. That way you can run perhaps 3 under the rear seat to two under the drivers seat. Lowers the the COG and can play with weight distribution as you see fit

yep now 1430 with driver and nav.

Regs say you can put it where ever you want, only restriction is on mounting plates and bolts. I was looking at putting the weight above the diff, but there wasn't enough room and it was going to be way too hard. The chassis rail is restricting the bricks being any wider as it is

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...