Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's today's efforts, we have stood around for the last 3hrs having a few beers appreciating our last 2 and 1/2 years + of effort and myself, my brother and the old boy are extremely proud of this car and $200 000 + later, it is worth every cent and probably wouldn't change a thing on it and I must say for a backyarder shed job it would have to be the best R32 GTR i have ever witnessed personally and can't wait to go toe to toe with the worlds best. I still can't believe how awesome this machine looks it makes the R33 look like shit hahaha!!!!! A few more things like the carbon aerolatches and the doors skins and windscreen wipers are about all thats left and a good day of cleaning it and its ready for the photoshoot, hopefully gracing the cover of HPI Magazine very soon. The first person who scratches this car my old man with probably kill them but at the end of the day this car was made to break records and hopefully the R32 will deliver ...as long as the driver has it all under control, 8.7sec here we come. P.S for those that are curious the back of the car is 10mm higher than the front, it was just the un-even ground the car was parked on that why it looked weird thumbsup.gif.

Here's some more pics:

248655_10150219596693485_679318484_7277696_1589650_n.jpg

249558_10150219596748485_679318484_7277697_3613054_n.jpg

Notice how the old man gets his ugly mug in ever photo!!!!!!!!!!!!!

250172_10150219596803485_679318484_7277698_897034_n.jpg

254906_10150219596878485_679318484_7277699_1851995_n.jpg

254351_10150219596943485_679318484_7277700_1535989_n.jpg

255141_10150219597018485_679318484_7277701_4939021_n.jpg

249875_10150219597073485_679318484_7277702_3665885_n.jpg

247915_10150219597103485_679318484_7277703_5363908_n.jpg

246703_10150219597158485_679318484_7277705_2601843_n.jpg

255062_10150219597248485_679318484_7277707_7607212_n.jpg

253577_10150219597303485_679318484_7277708_941531_n.jpg

AME Tracer TM-02 19x9.5 +22 with Advan AD08 275/30 R19

i was always of the opinion that 19's were too big for an r32, that is, until i picked up my replacement r32 & after looking at your pics as well as the gun metal r32gtr garage saurus with carbon panels...it really confirms for me that 19's are the way to go!

looks awesome mate. I love it. makes me think my next GTR will be white too. I had a nice white 32 a few years back and always had a bit of a soft spot for them. hope it runs fast like you want it too. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...