Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'Day,

I've been looking at the "BC Racing" coilover for sale on ebay, they have external reservior, shock and rebound adjustable , body height adjustable for $1695.00. They look the goods but seem way too cheap.

I looked up their website, they are from the UK and have some sort of German accreditation, but I assume they are manufactured in China. "Not that that a bad thing", I don't want to end up in a jail cell with a Rio Tinto Executive.

Has anyone bought these?

Any comments

I just had Centreline Suspension in Melbourne install them in my 180sx. When i picked my car up, i was asked what i wanted to do with the car. I was basically explained that these coilovers (ER model) are made for track usage. So far I haven't driven my car much (issues with alternator)

they look quite good for $1700 delivered but there is no way to tell what they are like till you test them. many compaines just make 1 damper and use different fittings on the ends to make it fit many different cars. this is bad as different cars and different springs and different useage needs different damping specs and different valves and shim stacks inside the damper. there is no way to know what is inside a damper you buy (without getting it on a shock dyno or pulling it apart) and no way of knowing what kind of R+D has been done to make that damper work with your specific model of car. in the case of most stuff manufactured in china and taiwan the chance of them having done extensive testing on say an R32 GTR is pretty slim, where as compaines like tein etc do that testing. there is the same issue with springs but it's not such a big deal as spring rate are fairly easily and cheaply changed. the other issue of course is quality. it's no use if they work well if they spit out a seal in 6 months time.

all of these things are un-known. of the problems the biggest one is the damper. many of those companies just use very 'approximate' specs for the damper. at most they might look up the weight and F-R weight balance of a car on the net and have a guess from there, but I highly doubt they have tested every model they make on the actual model of car it's made to fit.

i believe BC also make Racing Logic Coilovers? I've heard great things abt those coilovers, just not many reviews on the "BC" labelled ones.

If BC have anything to do with Racing Logic dont buy them, i was given set of new Racing Logic Coil overs to test in my R32 GTR, had them in for 4 months after trying differant springs, they are crap,

way to bouncy under brakes over bumps and dampers where up shit creek, let alone did very

little when adjusted.

Now have Tein Mono Flex and fells like a differnat car.

Spend the money and buy the good stuff....

Legnum/EVO boys love BC Coilovers, my friend bought the BC BR range for his Legnum, not bad for the price, but then again none of my mates have another Legnum to compare to.

ill have a set of these in my R32 GTR race car for the next meeting.

They are being checked and tested right now before we fit them up.

Ill be keeping my old spring rates and going from there so after some testing ill be sure to post up results

meh for the money I'd rather have a decent shock / spring combo (don't really care for adjustment on a street car)

I bet they are harder than a cat's head lol, especially if someone was told that they are good only for track use lol

I am also contemplating on this BC Racing (BR spec) and Tein Super Street. Hope to hear more feedback for on the track and street experienced for r34 GTT. The spring rate for the BC Racing (8/6kg) is slightly more than the Teins SS (6/4kg). However the BC is monotube against the Teins twintubes. Appreciate feedback and if there is any comparison between both models.

ill have a set of these in my R32 GTR race car for the next meeting.

They are being checked and tested right now before we fit them up.

Ill be keeping my old spring rates and going from there so after some testing ill be sure to post up results

Are you getting the shocks dynoed? If so I'd love to see the graphs.

Been trying to get BC & GReddy to cough them up without success and haven't had time to pull my GReddys out to test.

Are you getting the shocks dynoed? If so I'd love to see the graphs.

Been trying to get BC & GReddy to cough them up without success and haven't had time to pull my GReddys out to test.

Hoping to know more about the BC on Skylines although other forums espescially the Evo/Subaru seems to like them very much. So far they have the BR specs with option of rubber or steel topmount to choose. Too bad there is no external reservoir type made for the GTT other than Evo/Subaru.

  • 1 month later...

I have also been looking at ther BR ones on ebay, they are a pillow ball upper mount. however i noticed in some ebay sellers fine print they are seling them withouth the rubber pillow mount. so be careful on that one. other than that i have heard only good things about them.

  • 2 months later...

i run greddy type s with 8/6 springs.

these are aparently the exact same as the bc ones

my car makes 323rwkw and also has struts, sways, pineapples, castor, camber and mech diff.

the coilovers are run @ 320mm centre to guard (low)

tyres are nitto NT05 245/40/18

i get traction through all gears right through to 7.5k rpm when i mash the loud pedal, and only spin when i want them to.

there is zero axle tramp.

they are a comfortable enough ride and my car is my daily with the coils on the hardest setting for nearly 2 years now.

the only thing they are shitful for is launching, but hey, its an 8/6 combo... that's just what you have to put up with

i am very happy with the product for the money and would happily buy again

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...