Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 162
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

West

If you are in CA its easy. The best induction system made for the GTR is the stock arrangement with a set of Password JDM snorkels (made in CA) for the airboxes. Forget about the pod filter intake kits, they are hot air generators and power reducers for the most. They also tend to cause laminar flow and tuning problems for the airflow meters. Folks will work this out soon enough.

The GTR exhaust is just a matter of taste. Obviously I would recommend a Willall midpipe - wouldnt I - but the reality is that from the cat back there is little to be had (nothing, no power) in a full system. Why? The stock R35 system is totally straight through, and most of the aftermarket systems are actually smaller in diameter around the mufflers. True. For aesthetic pleasure then by all means go ahead and get a big shiny, but it wont sound/go any different to a stock system + midpipe :)

Edited by Martin Donnon

Thats excellent advice Martin. It is impressive how many of the standard parts on the R35 GTR can not be improved on by much. I have always hated buying a new car & having to rip the whole exhaust system off & chuck it in the bin.

At least with your midpipe it is a quick & easy mod & you get a great power/sound improvement without having to change the rest at huge expense. That money saved can then be put towards upgraded turbos instead!

I will try and answer that rather condensed post in point form......

1) Thats typical of an internal wastegate boost curve

Would a stronger pair of wastegates' actuators redice this loss in high rev range Martin?

Edited by 9krpm

No I dont think so 9krpm, I would suggest thats what the turbos have to deliver and between being on the edge of compressor and turbine flow, the whole system is starting to become 'on the limit' in terms of its response :P

Having said that the actuators used in this instance are 0.8bar units which MAY not be quiet enough for 1.4 bar application. On the flipside this gives the end user the great ability of being able to 'flick' the switch to a nice low boost level for everday driving that 1.2 bar actuators simply wont deliver. We will be mapping the next such installation with stock 0.7 bar actuators and a new RPM derived Wastage duty cycle table to deliver a similar result to aftermarket actuators and boost controller without the complication and expense :D

The project is nearly completed, a few more items to go and it will be all done, a big thanks to Martin and all the guys at Willall Racing who invested their expertise and have worked tirelessly on this project. The guys at Willall are undoubtedly the #1 GTR specialists in Aus.

Some pics:

gtr1.jpg

gtr2.jpg

gtr3.jpg

gtr4.jpg

gtr5.jpg

gtr6.jpg

gtr7.jpg

gtr8.jpg

gtr9.jpg

gtr10.jpg

For those interested the current mod list on this R35 is:

Engine and transmission:

Willall:

Turbo upgrade (WR35TT )

Front Mount Transmission Oil Cooler (WR35TC)

Rear Diff Cooler (WR35DC)

Front Diff Cooler (WR35DC-F)

High Volume Oil pan (WR35OP)

Trans fluid (WR35TM)

Diff Fluid (WR35DF)

Motor Oil (WR35MO)

Gearbox seals (WR35GS)

Mid Pipe (WR35MP)

PPG 1st gear set

HKS Super Sequential BOV Kit

HKS EVC 6 Boost Controller

HKS A/F Knock AMP Sensor

HKS super fire spark plugs

Cobb AccessPORT with custom tune

5Zigen downpipes

5Zigen Spec tune exhaust

AAM engine oil cooler with custom fabricated lines

AAM wastgate actuators

SSP RS Clutch pack

Duetschworks 800cc Fuel injectors

MCR/ARC twin intercooler kit

K&N Filters

Nissan Spec V radiator coolant reservoir and fittings

Exterior:

Password JDM:

RAM air induction snorkels

NACA ducts

Radiator cooling panel

Intake Manifold

Bonnet

Boot lid

Rear diffuser blades

Rear speaker shelf

Elevated rear spoiler

Door sill covers

Engine compartment covers

Stillen:

Front lip

Side skirts

Wheels, suspension and brakes:

Volk TE37 G2 wheel

Eibach springs

Cobb Tuning Anti-Sway bar kit

AP Racing J Hook Rotors Front

AP Racing J Hook Rotors Rear

Stillen stainless steel brake lines

Endless Brake pads

Interior:

MCR paddle shifter

Sparco Steering wheel

Works Bell Rapfix II quick release steering hub and flipper

Items soon to be installed:

Password JDM rear seat delete kit

Tecnocraft T1 carbon race seats

Stillen AP Carbon Ceramic brakes

Edited by SlipR35
Is the car actually going to see some track time or be parked outside cafés all day? .

Simple answer....if you got one you can....if not, well you know what to do :D

After seeing the custom race trailer thats built for it though I would "suggest" it might be a half decent Time Attack kind of thing - just a hunch is all :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...