Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, jst thought id share a little info i got from a little test i did regarding those 'octane boosters'

anyways I recently filled up with a bad batch of fuel and im getting 'safe' but increased knocks then usual; normal from watching my pfc hand controller for the past year is 13-27 (max 29-30 on a hot day)

With this current batch of fuel im getting 37 average at 6000rpm 2nd gear and 5000rpm 3rd gear.

Info from pauls pfc faq tells me that its still safe but i thought it would be a good chance to test some octane boosters to see if there is a difference. Anyways I drove the car as-is; warmed it up for 15 minutes and ran on a stretch of road in 2nd n 3rd gear (2nd to 6000 and 3rd to 5000)

Result was: 38knock in 2nd, reset n 36knock in 3rd.

I added the nulon octane booster (the pro strength thing from autobarn at 25bux) and drove for 10 minutes to disperse the contents then ran the same stretch of road again; results were: 25knock in 2nd @ 6000rpm and 29knock in 3rd @ 5000rpm.

anyways just wanted to share the info with you guys cos im pretty happy, dont take it as 'proven' jst wanted to share.

-Johnny

post-4266-1251690922_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285847-octane-boosters-test-n-results/
Share on other sites

Didn't some mag do a test on all the octane boosters and the Nulon Pro Strength was the only one that made a decent difference? While working at Autobarn the Pro Strength was definetely the best seller.

Edited by PM-R33

I find they work well with shitty fuels, but don't expect it to anything after adding it to fresh premium petrol.

I have an octane booster that I import from America for about $2.50 a bottle (treats 20 gallons / 80 litres). When I mix that with regular unleaded it feels just like Optimax.

One thing to be weary of is these additives sometimes leave deposits in the fuel system.

Ive tried heaps of them and i found out that the only one i noticed made a difference in driving as well as knock was the Nitro NOS octane booster ill post a pic up so you see which one i mean but these do come at a cost though at $40 a bottle to treat one tank of fuel lol and i also found that martini ones are not bad either but be careful, some of them contain lead as well as other chemicals that are not good for Oxygen sensors valve seats and etc.

heres a photo

post-46081-1251701851_thumb.jpg

agree with the others, i dont see the point of octane boosters

either

a) get proper 98 fuel

b) tune your car on the best fuel you can get ie 95 penis if your in a shit area etc

c) if you get a bad batch of 98 PFC users can use temp ign adjust to back out a few deg, or just baby it around

c is my preferred if i buy 98 and its penis fuel 98ron

b is recommended instead of using 95ron and octane booster each time

a is preferred for all around

i found the big wynns race formula to be the best... mind you i just bung the lot in.... they are all evil on spark plugs

http://www.wynns.net/retail_raceformula.aspx

http://www.wynns.net/product_files/Race%20...43905%20PIS.pdf

Edited by URAS
Didn't some mag do a test on all the octane boosters and the Nulon Pro Strength was the only one that made a decent difference? While working at Autobarn the Pro Strength was definetely the best seller.

This Bob Komtel - Street Machine article mentions it, and IIRC he wrote another column about a comparison of octane boosters and Nulon came out on top. Cant find that one tho.

you cant say its a waste of money, its just over priced for what they are.... and they dont create deposits, if anything they help burn the build up and clear it away....

it definately reduces knocking which on a track day could save your engine, not everyone tunes their car every time they throw on new bits... fuel is never at a constant ron rating.... sometimes we will think we're buying 98 ron but we get 97, sometimes its 99, if a car is tuned at 99 and you get a 97 ron in it you will feel if not hear the difference.... then octane booster will help aswell.

ive only used the stuff once and the car does run smoother, but thts in my car, yours may behave different.

either way the stuff is too expensive for what it is

they are all evil on spark plugs

And here in lies the problem :laugh:

If you love changing plugs every few tanks - go for it.

Otherwise, just use good fuel.

Octane boosters are a one-tank wonder, nothing more.

The best thing you can do is buy a drum of race fuel, mix a tank 30/70, much better than these additives.

Thankyou for this reply, i actually went to autobarn to buy a drum of race fuel to mix a tank but they said that i required some form of liscence to buy it; now is this right or is the bloke at the store just a 'know-nothing, know-it-all'

seems they had a leaded 100octane there for 75dollars/20litres

I actually bought 2 addidtives; the nulon one and another best seller which ill try next time.

with this new spark plug issue thats jst come up, ill be looking at mixing race gas with my pump tune for a litttle extra safety.

any info on the liscence???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...