Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

R33 GTST Series 2

bought one of these the other day: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ALLOY-INTAKE-PIPE-4...id=p3286.c0.m14

Doesn't state anywhere on the ad that its a pain in the ass to fit and that it is not a direct fit.

Hose from blow off valve and breather house have to me changed or modified!

Few pics..

Take off standard cooler piping

Photo020.jpg

Remove standard intake pipe

Photo024.jpg

Test fit new alloy pipe.. oh look, nothing lines up!

Photo031.jpg

End up having to run new house for breather and BOV

Photo033.jpg

DSC01796.jpg

Had to do with what we had for joining hose to alloy pipe as we couldn't get a hold of the correct size pipe for BOV plumb back into intake.

Also, had to trim about 2cm off the bottom of the pod filter other wise it wouldn't sit under the bonnet because the alloy pipe is a bit too long!!!!

In other words,

dodgey kit! Nothing lines up!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290463-fitted-a-alloy-intake-pipe-today/
Share on other sites

hate to say it but this is what you get for cheap knock off items on ebay / 2nd hand traders

its probably autobahn 88 or something cheap etc

if it was a legit HKS or Trust item it would be about sub $500 and fit perfectly and mate up

but if its a knock off $80 item what can you expect?

just blank off the BOV and practice p i g e o n noise ;)

Already have.. just made up the BOV return line just so it looks like its hooked up

is that a hose holding in a hose there(big fitting nearest afm)? haha

Yes lol, BOV is blocked off anyways

Defiantly run a bigger bov return hose :P

Lol, its just so its there to make the BOV legal as you know its meant to be plumbed back. The BOV is blocked off anyways

Ah good ole ebay "direct fit" parts...

Cost you more in time than something from a well known trader if you paid initially :P

Good writeup/info on what you needed/need to do etc though for others that might get into the same predicament

Ah good ole ebay "direct fit" parts...

Cost you more in time than something from a well known trader if you paid initially :P

Good writeup/info on what you needed/need to do etc though for others that might get into the same predicament

someone must have stole his account

how do i know if my stock r33 pipe is closing shut running 17psi? would my knock increase??

you will lose lots of power :(

how do i know if my stock r33 pipe is closing shut running 17psi? would my knock increase??

put it on a dyno and have a look while a run is being done. much easier than trying to drive with the bonnet up and someone standing on a skateboard leaning into the engine bay, LOL

There is none.

Only time you will see a 'gain' is if your stock one is sucking shut, which really isn't a gain, its just replacing a stuffed/broken part

sorry ash but i beg to differ

i made a "dose" pipe on sunday night after work and fitted it all up its 3 inch stainless steel and about 30cm long ish

the response in every gear is much better it definately had a good gain in response. the dose is not very loud either which is good too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...