Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmm there's alot of thoughts on oils.... I'm no expert but seems like redline is the go if you wanna spend the $ or fuchs. But i've never used either.

Just did an 8ok change and put motul 8100, which seemed to be a recommendation of a few different posts.

Put Nulon trans fluid in as well, but never used the nulon engine oil.

It's australian though, so that's a plus :rant:

Edited by bayslideblue
I'm looking at different oils to use for my car,

need some recommendations, I'm looking at this one NULON

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Full_Synt...sel_Engine_Oil/

thoughts?

Cheers

I use Motul 300v Chrono (10w40) in the Stagea.

I used the that Nulon 10w40 that you are asking about in my wife's Magna kast service. Seems to be good shit.

the Magna was burning a heap of oil and was very noisy (probably due to the 3L of oil that was left in it after 10,000kms). Put the Nulon in with their tappet treatment, damn quiet now and is great on startup. My wife says that the car is much, much smoother now.

Have had in the Stagea (all 100% Synthetic);

Royal Purple - good.

SHell Helix Ultra - ok.

Mobil 1 5w40 - too thin, engine didn't "feel" together, was quite noisy and I didn't have the confidence to push it.

Castrol Edge - not so good. Engine "felt" loose and was a bit noisier than I would have liked.

Motul 8100 - rubbish, could smell it burning, when I changed it (800kms after putting it in) a large mass of crap that smelt like charcoal came out.

Amsoil 10w40 - good.

Penrite Syn 0w50- way too thick. Felt like the intake pipe was 90% blocked off. Just didn't want to rev. (changed after 1100kms)

Motul 300v Chrono 10w40 - Best to far... by a long way too! Engine revs effortlessly, is damn smooth and is quieter than the any on this list. (too bad it costs so much)

I used to change every 5000kms, but I have extended that to every 10,000kms with the 300v.

Will be trying the Nulon 10w40 with my next service (2000kms away).

I say give it a shot. If it doesn't feel good (you will know), just change it. 5L of Nulon is what, $50?

Oils have different grades. Have a read of the different grades of full synthetic oils. "Full synthetic" is sometimes more of a marketing term than actually 100% synthetic. It may or may not be true.

Basically if I remember correctly, Nulon 300V was one of the few grade 5 oils, most other full synthetics are grade 4 (redline & royal purple i think) which is still pretty good, and then there are also a lot of grade 3 oils, which are still listed as "full synthetic" even though some of them are actually a semi-synthetic. This includes shell helix ultra...unless they've changed it recently...

Either way a synthetic oil will work well, just depends how critical you are. The average joe just sends their car to your average mechanic and their cars usually last the distance...so who knows...

"I use Motul 300v Chrono (10w40) in the Stagea.

I used the that Nulon 10w40 that you are asking about in my wife's Magna kast service. Seems to be good shit.

the Magna was burning a heap of oil and was very noisy (probably due to the 3L of oil that was left in it after 10,000kms). Put the Nulon in with their tappet treatment, damn quiet now and is great on startup. My wife says that the car is much, much smoother now.

Have had in the Stagea (all 100% Synthetic);

Royal Purple - good.

SHell Helix Ultra - ok.

Mobil 1 5w40 - too thin, engine didn't "feel" together, was quite noisy and I didn't have the confidence to push it.

Castrol Edge - not so good. Engine "felt" loose and was a bit noisier than I would have liked."

What grade Castrol Edge were you using? I had been using 5w 30 which was no good for my car but now on 10w 60 it is fine.

It really depends on what sort of climate that you live in.

If you live in cold climates then look for a lower figure with the W after it (5W) means that the oil flows as a 5 weight oil at 0 degC.

If you live in higher temperatures obviously this is less important, so you can go to 10W or even 20W.

The higher number is how the oil perfoms (flows) at 100 degC. So a 5W/40 acts a 5 weight at 0 deg and a 40 weight at 100 deg.

Now obviously you'd like it to run as a 5 weight at 100 deg eh? WRONG.... 5 weight oil at 100 deg is like water! 40 weight oil at 0 deg is like honey. So that's why we want a 5W/40... which is pretty consistent all the way from 0 - 100 deg C.

Keeping an oil in your engine too long will load it with contaminates. Mainly carbon, but also some metals (your engine wear!!). The non-synthetic oils use polymers to boost the viscosity at higher temps.

Imagine them like bits of styrene packaging suspended in the oil. As it get hotter they expand and make the oil thicker. Your engine is mashing them up though all the time.

So eventually they lose the ability to expand and do their job properly. Which is why you need to change them fairly often.

Pure synthetics don't do this.

I used to work for a Shell company. Once Shell did an experiment on a Cummins diesel, they ran it to destruction. It took about 630,000 hours. They didn't change the oil, or filters. They worked out that the replacement cost outweighed the maintenance cost by a staggering $60,000!

I once did an oil test on Mobil 1, for a customer. After 20,000 km, the test came back "This oil is as new".

It did have some contaminants but this was minor. The oil itself had not degraded. Good filters are worth far more than this brand or that brand.

Me I use Castrol Edge 5W/30 at the moment. If money wasn't any object it would be Mobil 1 every time. I'd probably go to 10,000km oil changes then instead of about 5,000km which usually turn into 7,000km oil changes!!

Remember all oils are tested if you don't understand what you are putting in your engine..... go read!! Start by Google-ing Oil Viscosity Chart.

The better you understand the more confident you will be.....

Hope this helped though.

i have castrol edge 10w30 and i know what Cam means when he says it sounds 'loose' and yes its noisier then before!

that said, it revs more smoothly (to me) and hasnt discoloured the oil so it appears to be doing its job.

im also thinking of going down the nulon engine oil path soon

I currently use Martini Racing Oil

Synt http://www.martiniracing.com.au/resources/...tini%20Sint.pdf

Martini is my current aswell! although that WAS my first service just last week.

seems to be running fine if not slightly better than before!, and it had Motul in it before Martini i do beleive. ;)

Synforce ProSYN 730 - 7.5w/30

http://www.synforce.com.au/synthetics.html

Queensland made for nissan motors. Was in my car when i bought it and found it good, currently running Castrol edge 5w/30 and find it poor in comparison...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...