Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 246
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I always use 5, I have used 4 in the past but never really liked it. What are your thoughts on the 4?

I will have some more pics up in a couple of days of the welding I done on the weekend....more of the cast to raw aluminium and it turned out quite well and consistent which is most important.

I always use 5, I have used 4 in the past but never really liked it. What are your thoughts on the 4?

I will have some more pics up in a couple of days of the welding I done on the weekend....more of the cast to raw aluminium and it turned out quite well and consistent which is most important.

i really only use 5356 which i have had no problems with it, but i havent tried pipe/cast or sheet/cast with it.

ive used 4043 before but thats only good for cast repair,

i might grab 1kg of 4047 and compare it to the 5 series

Silly question, would you know if the RB20, RB20 or Rb26 fuel rails are interchangeable? I have an RB26 rail for my RB20 and after having a quick look at it i suspect its not going to work....despite my mates assurance he ran a scummy RB20 rail on his RB26.

One other thing, is there a reason why the runners are perpindicular to the plenum when you are going full custom?

For some reason I believe they do but not 100% sure since I usually make my own. I would just see if anyone else can confirm, I think the rb25's are not.

This has been proven over and over to produce the best results in terms of flow and consistency between runners with a correctly designed plenum.

looks great! just curious, how you manage to get the torch into tight spots like this? do you pull the tungsten out a fair bit, and wind up the gas flow to shield it more? or any secrets? :D

i'm also thinking for tighter spots too, like between runners in an ex manifold, etc..

I use a 20 size torch....being watercooled it is a lot smaller than the air cooler ones.

I have very rarely needed to extended the tungsten out of the cup or turn the gas flow up when welding aluminium....I usually just crank the amps up. I do though for stainless/mild steel and tight spots.

They are sandblasted prior to welding. If they are not blasted and you try to weld them, the impurities should only come from the cast and not from the oil on the inside of the runners. If that's what's happening you are using to much amps.

I used to weld them before blasting them but as you can see the result is just fine doing it before and this justifies not having to blast them afterwards as well.

You could ask what type of sand I use to blast them, but then I would be giving away all my little secrets :P

Ariel

hahaha fair enough :D

well its either soda or glass bead - as no garnet/crushed glass/oxide based blasting media will give that shine :)

you've given me enough hints so i should work the rest out myself :D cheers Ariel.

Chris

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
×
×
  • Create New...