Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mate its been done a few times now. no need to mod the ex housing for gate either,

Call andrew from AM Performance and have a chat to him about mounting one and making an adaptor to suit your gate for you, he's based in golden grove. Call him on 0401 865 373

just reading some threads and came aross this..

gt3076r dont come with the .70 compressor housing..

but mine says this on the front

post-16535-1266146422_thumb.jpg

is this a 3076r or a 3082r.

garrett tag says p/n 714569 5002

cheers

Hi

This could be a Garrett GT3076 from Sonic Performance.

They sell 2 types of GT3076 turbochargers.

The normal (most popular) GT3076 has a 0.60 Surge slot Compresser housing.

Has a 57mm Inducer with 76mm Exducer compressor wheel

54.98mm exducer turbine wheel

The other option GT3076 has a 0.70 Standard Compressor housing.

Has a 55mm inducer and 76mm exducer Compressor wheel.

53.60 Exducer turbioe wheel

well i had to scrap the hks manifold as there was literally no room! so now im back to the stock manifold and still there is bearly any room.. turbos housing hits power steering lines etc running down the chassis..

has anyone had any issues fitting one to a rb25 R32?

y do they not fit as easy?

ahhhh ready to dump it all...

Try harder

DSC00052.jpg

DSC00045.jpg

DSC00044.jpg

You should be able to keep the air con. From memory i just loosened the bigger of the 2 fittings at the back and rotated the line until it was hard against the strut tower.

I had issues with the power steering reservoir piping so relocated it behind the strut tower, though i know there was a guy in Melbourne that i sold a few bits to that didn't need to relocate it. i think he was using the t04e that came with the manifold originally which has a smaller comp cover.

  • 3 months later...
Good stuff, i'd prefer to call myself skeptic though, but each to their own. :thumbsup:

I'm happy knowing that I've highlighted your factually incorrect statement.

Nothing worse than misleading users of this forum with blatantly wrong information and claims... Claims like Hub dynos are in RWKW - which are wrong.

They are extremely close when you look at back to back testing (in the real world). They just eliminate the wheel spin issues which COULD be why they read higher. That being said if a car is secured properly and has sufficient grip on the dyno this shouldn't be an issue.

And now with teh cams in the Neo donk, I'm sure there is no arguing the power is exactly where it should be. I think 325rwkW at 18psi was the latest result?

Higher comp and extremely mild cams hold the standard Neo's back. With 260 Poncams they destroy the 33 donks :D

  • 9 years later...
On 16/02/2010 at 5:55 PM, Simon-S14 said:

no prob, my sig link has a lot of the build up info also.

My set up is stock Neo 34 rb25 with AM Performance high mount manifold with merge collector, HKS 38mm gate with 3076 56t with the .6 surge slotted housing. .63 rear 4 bolt garret housing.

the rest is basically bolt ons. running nisstune board on stock 34 ecu, fmic, larger injectors and so forth.

my mates set up is a r33 RB25 and has exact same turbo as me, but with tial gate, stock rb25 manifold with am performance adaptor to low mount the turbo, adapter has port for wastegate which sits high up. runs a Rb20 ecu with chip, no vct.

now my mates makes a few rwkw more then mine, both cars tuned on same dyno. however whats interesting to note is that mine makes more torque and earlier in the rev range, and less boost to do it also. Dyno is a dyna pack unit so all runs done without hitting limiter. Mine keeps climbing and making power right to the point where the dyno brake hits where as my mates makes peak power at 6000rpm then starts to fall off.

i put this down to the exhaust manifold and cam differences with our engines. but rest assured for sub 300 rwkw they are awesome even for a basically stock 25 set up!

what psi

 

1 hour ago, luminer34neo6trubo said:

what psi

 

That was 10 years ago - he's probably got married, sold the car and drives a Mazda3 by now!

For some ideas for your car go to the top of this section to the RB25 turbo upgrade section and you should find a few cars with turbos like yours.

  • Haha 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...