Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

oil analysis? there was a thread in the last week where someone (elite I think) posted phone numbers for capital cities. if you don't want to pull the motor analysis is 100% the way to go....couple of days and you will know.

too drunk to find it myself its a bacheloring weekend for me

if its a spun big end bearing the noise gets louder as the rev's go up, the more load/rpm, the more cylinder pressure the bigger the bang.

sounds like a hammer on the crank as said before. the noise will NOT go away as rev's go up. and it WILL get worse with each time a load is put on it.

The noise of a spun big end bearing is actually a gap between the crank and bearing allowing the big end bearing to bang down each time

that cylinder fires and then slams the big end down on the crank.

  • 1 year later...

yeah I don't know why people are so afraid to spend $40 on UOA? i've been doing it for nearly 10 years on my GTRs and it tells you everything you need to know. especially if you start when the engine is still good, that way you have a solid baseline and if something starts to go wrong you know straight away. it also helps you set accurate oil change intervals etc.

For me the 'cut spark' method has never failed.

Am not sure why more people don't have the same faith.. I think it was particularly clever of the OP and thought it showed he had a decent understanding of what he was doing.

Meh.

so what would be causing a spun end bearing???

How do you avoid having one?

A done bearing is normally caused by an oil related or stress related issue. Oil related would mean it was starved of oil or was poorly serviced.Stress related is not as simple as it sounds.. It does not mean ringing the neck out of the motor, it more so means stress directly on the bearing itself. That could be caused by ping/detonation, piston contact with valves (rarer case but something not to be missed if you do have a piston meet a valve) or abuse. By abuse, I particular mean starting the motor and giving it too much stick before its at operating temperature.

A brief summary of my experiences... I have never owned a motor that blew anything more than a head gasket. I have never owned a motor for less than 40,000km and I have never owned a motor that did not see its redline daily nor for less time than it sat idle at the lights. I NEVER give my car any sort of 'stick' within the first 5 to 10 minutes of driving. My last 2 cars were thrashed the most, both of them are still running with the new owners and both have high KMs on the factory bottom ends.

Every friend or acquaintance I know who has thrashed their car from start up, has had it bite them in the bum sooner or later. We are currently repairing my own brothers 911 motor at a cost of over 20 grand due to his sheer lack of care for my advice.

Turn the key and drive it unreasonably before its truly at a reasonable operating temp and you WILL run into problems sooner or later. My brother thought he could get away with it because he always owned newer cars, now either hes owned this car long enough, the previous owner also did the same thing, or hes just simply got the kind of motor that couldn't take that kind of abuse for that long, but I'm sure he will remember the debt.

Is it possible to repair the big end bearings without removing the head? for eg, engine out..put on stand..flip the motor upside down to work on it???

Provided that the only damage done is to the bearing itself, then yes. It really depends how much damage has been done.. Sometimes you will have a bearing look like its lost its first layer or two when it makes the noise, others will start to knock and utterly destroy themselves soon after. What that means is, the bearing does not evaporate to the magical land or none.. It will grind away into metalic dust and contaminate your oil.. Your oil, being the life blood of the engine, will carry the said contaminants throughout the motor and will possibly damage other aspects of it in the long run.

Is glittery oil normal after a fresh engine rebuild. I just rebuilt my motor and im hearing a noise as weel from cylinders 5 and 6. Sounds like more of a top end noise with the stethescope but im curious about the glittery oil during the break in period. Looks like a goldish color.....

Is glittery oil normal after a fresh engine rebuild. I just rebuilt my motor and im hearing a noise as weel from cylinders 5 and 6. Sounds like more of a top end noise with the stethescope but im curious about the glittery oil during the break in period. Looks like a goldish color.....

Sorry but that is almost certainly not OK. If someone else built the engine, talk to them before you start it again.

If you built it...I guess you can start with oil analysis but 99% you are going to have to pull it out.

How is the oil pressure?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
    • What ECU are you running? This is probably the biggest question. If it's a PowerFC, I'd probably change the ECU and get something newer that will handle the injectors in a nicer way.
×
×
  • Create New...