Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My mechanic was insistent that it would work better with the clutch I'm getting. So I just told him to go for it.

I was going to get one anyway. Less drivetrain loss :)

Car is predominantly a daily, but used for hill climbs and track days too.

Trying to get a good balance between looks, performance and practicality/reliability.

flywheel is a waste of money

I dunno, didn't really like the feel of my Exedy HD, so thought the cushion might be a good change. Spur of the moment thing :P

haha the cushion button isnt all that good for daily driving :P

takes a bit of getting used to, Kris drove my old 32 with the cushion button and even he said was hard

took alot of abuse though, and only died when one of the springs popped out of the centre part, apparently its a common issue on them

Haha good call. He's actually not making money off the clutch. That's the price that his wholesaler gave him. It's a bloody good clutch though. Definitely overkill for what I need but meh :P

HDCB's are terrible for taking constant abuse (like a full track day). The centre and the ceramic are attached so you can't rebuild them modularly when they wear out, they suck for daily driving and are no more durable than a regular HD.

basically HDCB's are for people who want to feel like they're using a brass button without any of the durability or benefits.

You either buy an HD which is cheap to maintain, gives good grip and slips enough to daily drive, or you get your balls in a bunch and buy a brass button. HDCB is for fags.

Heavy flywheel + snappy clutch = good

Light flywheel + snappy clutch = shockloaded drivetrain

I run an exedy lightened wheel in mine, with a 5 puk. Love it.

Fantastic for track work. Doesn't get driven on the street a whole lot, but when it does its a ball.

To be honest I didn't notice the difference between gears, there is a definite pickup in revs while while under load though.

leigh fix coilpacks and then check it, if the coilpacks misfire i wouldnt bother trying anything else. Where do u live? Do u want me to check it

yeah i'll wack coilpacks in first and see how it goes. I live near Knox but yeh will see how the new coilpacks go first

HDCB's are terrible for taking constant abuse (like a full track day). The centre and the ceramic are attached so you can't rebuild them modularly when they wear out, they suck for daily driving and are no more durable than a regular HD.

basically HDCB's are for people who want to feel like they're using a brass button without any of the durability or benefits.

You either buy an HD which is cheap to maintain, gives good grip and slips enough to daily drive, or you get your balls in a bunch and buy a brass button. HDCB is for fags.

Heavy flywheel + snappy clutch = good

Light flywheel + snappy clutch = shockloaded drivetrain

this.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...