Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, not many of these and Characoal one pretty much as rare as hens teeth especially in series 3.

Same goes for 33 GTST that doesn't have RHS guard hole to accomodate the FMIC piping. Not many RWC place will give out certificate for the hole.

For first time I'm struggling to purchase a car.

Yeah, not many of these and Characoal one pretty much as rare as hens teeth especially in series 3.

Same goes for 33 GTST that doesn't have RHS guard hole to accomodate the FMIC piping. Not many RWC place will give out certificate for the hole.

For first time I'm struggling to purchase a car.

My car has had plenty of rwc with the hole :s

If you're so set on midnight purple, buy a white one and get it sprayed whatever color u want. Who gives a f**k if it won't sell for as much as a factory midnight purple if all you want is the color.

Thought about that when I had the white one, was quoted $7-10k for a colour change and decided to f**k it. For this kind of money, I can buy turbos, PFC, wheels, coilovers, blah blah blah...

Only good thing about R32 GTR is, many of them are in Gunmetal Grey which is a colour I like most, yet I bought black one...

Thought about that when I had the white one, was quoted $7-10k for a colour change and decided to f**k it. For this kind of money, I can buy turbos, PFC, wheels, coilovers, blah blah blah...

Only good thing about R32 GTR is, many of them are in Gunmetal Grey which is a colour I like most, yet I bought black one...

that sounds silly.

everything i read compared to what its doing says coil packs and or spark plugs hedging bets on somethign not right with the plugs maybe not in right or gapped wrong dunnno only a week old since it was fine before that im hoping its that

either way im gonna give it hell @ winton haha

Have you tried a different coilpack loom or ignitor? These can also be responsible for the misfire.

took car back they wound boost T down they rkn that was causing the problem so need new boost controller

This might fix the issue but only by masking it. Could be an underlying fault in the ignition that only shows its face under higher boost.

man im gettin over checking into wasteland

it salways same shit cant sell my car, buyer fkd me over, cant find a car to buy, oh didnt buy that car it was shit cos XXXXXXXXXXXXX

more importantly winton was fkn awesome car was really solid all day

Birds - yeh car is going back friday for more changes to get it right dont need it for a few motnhs now so was just about getting out there yesterday which i did so :D:D:D:D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...